Hi all!!!

I've just got an engine from a friend of mine wich i intend to use for a little project. The engine came out of a Cat 951? loader serial# 63k416. What type of engine could it be? Is there a separate serial # for the engine, and in that case, where to find it? As far as i remember the engine only ran on three cylinders, there was no fuel from injection pump to one of the four.. I assume i`ll have to change plunger and barrel for that one?? Also guess i'll be needing special tools for that job?? I apreciate all tips and answers!!

Thank u all!

LP

I,m kind of thinking you have a D330 engine there. Look on the left side of the block below the head and possibly toward the rear of block and see if it has the plate there with the SN on it.Normally that is where the SN plate is so even look all around the left side if it isn,t toward the rear of the block below the head.

hello Lost pinion,the 951 63k416was built in 1968 and they were built from 68-70 ,uk built with the d330 @85hp ,direct drive ,weight 22000 pounds ,my book doesn't show different number for the engine ,bruce oz

Very possible that you have a plunger stuck in the bore of the pump. I expect you can remove the retainer nut with the 1m6952 wrench and pull the pump with the 1M6954 extractor (or an old injector line nut welded onto a handle) and free it up.

Reinstalling it is the trick. You can't see the notches to time it up to the rack like you can on the old forged body injection pump housings, so the rack has to be in a set position so the plunger engages the rack at the correct spot using the 1M6953 rack setting gauge installed in the hole on the end of the injection pump opposite the governor and a depth micrometer set to 1". This is equivalent to the end of the rack protruding 0.1563 inches from the face of the pump housing according the the shop manual I have. If you look down the bore of the housing before you replace the pump, the 4th groove in the rack (from either end) should be centered in the bore. When you replace the pump, there are grooves in the bonnet and pump barrel that align with dowels in the pump housing. Use a new seal on top and torque the retainer to 100-110 foot-pounds.

I think that this is basically with throttle at "cutoff" position, but am not sure on that. If you crank it up and it's not timed right, you will get some really strange sounds and lots of smoke. Ask me how I know!!

I would have a plan how you are going to stop it if it were to run away the first time you start it.

You pull the throttle on @ install the tool and set it at the correct setting and it will push the rack back to the setting you stopped at.This zero,s the rack and your ready to install the pump that the plunger is centered in the barrel.

Thank u all for the answers!!!

If understood it all correct, the pump housing needs to get of the engine to be able to set pump back in place at the right "spot" ? And also i guess the dowels needs to be pulled or drilled out first?

And yes i am going to have a plan for stopping the engine if it runs away..! I think i'll "just" unscrew the fuel lines...!

No, all work can be done with housing on engine. The 0.1563" dimension does appear to be from the face of the pump with it OFF the engine. The rack setting gauge fits into the pump housing with it attached to the accessory drive housing and the 1" dimension is from the face of the gauge in to the end of the rack.

Dowels are just a guide for inserting the pump and bonnet assembly with it oriented in the correct direction so the fuel supply port lines up. They do not retain anything, the retainer bushing that you unscrew does that.

Ok i see...!! As i haven't got the tool for setting the rack i'll try measure the setting in an other way.

I think i've got bigger issues with the engine right now. It doesn't turn fully round (360 deg.) At a certain point i feels just like there were sand i one of the holes... Wish me good luck!

Thank's again !

LP