My right steering clutch is not functioning properly. Many posts I have studied suggest exhausting all options before concluding the steering clutches are bad.

Here’s the symptoms:

- will not turn right
- on flat terrain, very slight pull to left at all times
- steering lever and full brake will turn machine slightly right, then machine pull left when released
- uphill, constant drift to left
- downhill, right steering lever pulled full back allows very slow right drift, adding brake stops machine 
​​​​​​- left steering lever and brake function normally

My attempts to remedy:

- adjusted steering clutches
- flushed brake and steering clutch compartments with kerosene
- ran machine hard for about an hour using right steering lever while applying hard left brake and other techniques suggested here
- all visible steering clutch linkage appears in tact and functional 
​​​​​​- left brake linkage and lining are free and functional 
- right brake pedal is very stiff, pivot inside brake compartment appears to be the source of the binding

Anything else I should try before I tear into the finals?





 

Beyond what Neil already listed, only other thing that comes to mind is possible twisted off bevel gear shaft - been there done that got the T-shirt lol.

A quick check for metal shavings or chunks in the bevel gear housing would give you an idea of a mechanical failure.

Steering clutch on left totally gone and slipping or stuck open (released)?
Is there play in the clutch brake drum when you take a pry bar and wiggle it? That would tell you if the pinion shaft is snapped off.

Thanks for all of the thoughts in the previous posts.

Dad and I got the final drives off this week. We did the right side first and it came off very easily. Three hours later, after much struggle, the left side was off. Both side appear to be well worn and the left side was definitely not functioning.

Now I am seeking advice on removing the clutch assemblies and inner drums.  I have read the service manual and I have watched Squatch’s YouTube video. Is there any other method?

 Thanks,
Chad

       

You have the hard part done. Now you need 2 pieces of threaded rod, from memory its 1/2 inch, get grade 8 because I have pulled the soft stuff in half. The threaded rod screws into the clutch, then you use a piece of metal such as 2 inch square tubing to make a cross bar bridging the threaded rod. Back the big bolt out about 3 turns on the steering clutch. Then use a hydraulic jack or a porta power to pop the clutch loose. I like a porta power with a hose so I can keep back a safe distance. I will look for a picture.

Seems like that's the way it always goes; One side comes off real easy the the other side nothing but trouble. I just looked through my thread on the Motor patrol and see I didn't post any pictures of pulling the steering clutches.The CAT15 is very similar other than the D2 has splined tapers. Steve A is correct, make sure you use the B7 all thread. If you don't have a hydraulic setup; I've gotten away with a Snap-on bar puller with screw. I believe 10ton . Tighten it up with a impact then give it a rap with a big sledge hammer. That may get it free but the spline tapers may be tougher. We've used hydraulic and sledge hammer too.

Hi Team,
please leave the clutch retaining nut on the shaft and screwed out to be about flush with the end of the shaft as when the taper lets go the entire assembly will fly across the shop sometimes with serious results--things or people get broken--SAFETY FIRST always around these things.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

You are going to need some type of hydraulic ram to push the clutch back on. If you are not replacing the outer drum it does not need to come off the final drive unless you want to replace the seal. Be very careful not to hurt yourself. Good luck