My money is on modified D4D cylinders.

good luck getting a shop to crimp your hoses/fittings

Glum wrote:

My money is on modified D4D cylinders.

I take that back. Went out and looked at some D4 cylinders and they are visibly different. Your barrels are clearly larger and mounting position differs.

As far as hoses go I have never had an issue having them made up by a hydraulics supplier, but with the old flange fittings, the easiest option is to braze or silver solder a JIC bullnose to the flange section. You can then just use common JIC female fittings on your hoses.
Looking at your last pic, you are missing the wiper seal which keeps the grit from going down the rod to the chevron packings.

nomorejohndeere wrote:

good luck getting a shop to crimp your hoses/fittings

Yes, they can be stubborn about it because they want you to buy their hoses and stuff at their markups. Fair enough. That's when you play it smart and when your wife's car needs a $400 part to repair it, you go to the automotive shop which also makes hoses and offer to buy the part from them if they'll help you out with a crimp.

Most shops won't crimp your hoses due to liability reasons.
The 163 Hydraulic control replaces the former 165 and 143 units.

11/25/20 - Most of the parts I can pull from the dozer have been stripped and repainted. Got the new hydraulic hoses for $100 apiece. All filters changed out. Started getting into the lift cylinders and found a mess, which wasn't a surprise given how much they leaked. Shredded packing and so forth. Finally got the right new parts so I will put in new packing and cup seals tomorrow, then we'll see if it holds the fluid a little better. Don't care about a little leak; it's not like I'm using it for hours a day on a construction site. That's what I couldn't get across to the hydraulic shops around here that demanded the rods be rechromed before they did a rebuild (the rods really do need it), but sometimes a 100% solution just isn't practical. I will smooth the rods and fill any voids with an appropriate filler, and that'll be the extent of it. I'll post up some pics of the cylinder repair when I have them.



I would like to put some original-looking cat decals back on it after it is painted, any ideas where such can be found? Particularly the "CATERPILLAR" above the radiator and the round D6 decals on either side of the fuel tank.

the ACMOC store sells decal kits for most of the old Cats

Where did you get the hoses done? Did they come up with the fittings?

davo727 wrote:

Where did you get the hoses done? Did they come up with the fittings?

I found an online resource to get the hoses done. It's called www.hoseinahurry.com and they have really great prices. They provide the complete hose with fittings. They actually messed them up the first time and did them over again free of charge. Good folks to work with. If you decide to use them I would seriously suggest contacting one of their owners to submit a sketch if the orientation of the fittings really matters to you as it did for me.

11/28/20 - As promised, some pics of the lift cylinder rebuild progress.







Nothing really remarkable about the job so far except you have to beg every nut and bolt off with a breaker bar, but that's pretty normal. Not even a 3/4" impact wrench could turn most of the fasteners. Looks almost as if someone 'packed' the cylinders with what appears to be a nylon rope at some point. Found that interesting. The piston ends of the cylinders appeared in great shape; no broken rings and no signs of excessive wear. Getting the 2" nut off was real fun. I calculate it took about 1100 ft-lbs of torque to get them off, which is basically me hanging on the end of a 6' pipe, hoping the ears didn't break off my breaker bar (you can prevent this by the way by clamping a vise grip around the ears, nothing I have ever done to a breaker bar will break it when you have that in place and I've hung from a 10' torque bar before). I took all the parts home and cleaned them in my automotive shop. Put the new packing and cup seals in, found that the cup seals are about 0.024" too small and obviously don't press into the retainers. I will fill that void with shim stock until I have a near press-fit. Gotta find a 4-3/8" o-ring from somewhere to go on the gland, but other than that it's ready to be put back together.