On my Caterpillar 22, the threaded rods that control the tension of the tracks are pretty well shot. I would like to pull them out and replace them. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to do this most safely? The nut that sits behind the spring is rusted tight on all four of the rods. I expect I will have to apply heat to loosen them. How much pressure is on those springs, as they are currently adjusted to 18 and 15/16 inches? Last question: assuming I do get the old rods out, do I need to replace them with hardened ones? Thanks in advance.

There is a lot of Tension in those springs- BE VERY CAREFUL!!! I wouldn't try to heat the nut and remove it due to the potential of breaking the large bolt and having parts flying around everywhere! I recently took apart several cat ten springs, which are half the size of a 22 spring and I was amazed at the amount of energy stored in those springs. I was outside and I would cut off the head of the bolt with a board over the spring with my foot with heavy work boots holding the board on the spring. When I cut thru, the springs, bolt, etc would go flying about 20 feet (the tip of the bolt is glowing red from cutting, that is why i did it outside). I was still uncomfortable doing it this way, however it seemed to be the safest way for me.

Whatever you do, be careful, make sure no one is around, and make sure if you are cutting with a torch, there will be hot pieces being thrown around with great force!

Best of luck!

The best way to deal with them so you don,t get hurt is take it to a place, dealer possibly and have them put it under their press.That was the only way we touched one at the Cat dealer so no one got hurt as a few bucks spent is better than chancing your life or get hurt seriously.If a spring center bolt was broke in the tractor we had the welder weld a bar on each side of the end plates and then put it in the press and cut them off then.

I've removed a few. I've always unbolted the spring assembly and moved it to a location that was easier to work on it. Used a small propane torch with MAPS gas on one, used the big gas torch on the other. It could take a little heat to a lot of heat.
I also took one of them to a major nut and bolt retailer to see what the replacement cost would be - the quote was around $100 and that was several years ago. I chased the threads on mine and straightened one that was bent. Used lots of of that silver thread stuff when I put them back together.

Good wrench with a cheater bar might work also.

I'm thinking that the 20 foot spring launch was proceeded by, "Hey, everyone watch this!"


Safety first...

Briank,

You are actually 100% incorrect with your statement, "Hey everyone, Watch this!"
If the nuts and bolts are severly rusted, putting a wrench, with a cheater bar on the nut and bolt is just asking for that bolt to break, releasing all of the energy instanly and unexpected. At least with the torch you know when it is going to let loose, and it actually starts off slow until it "pops". You also won't have sockets, drivers, and wrenches being thrown around either.

Technically, speaking mr Safety, you are never suppose to use cheater bars as you exert more force on the tool than it was safely designed to handle. That is very clear in both OSHA and MSHA.

I think SJ had the best recomendation with the press!

I had reproduction cat ten bolts made a couple of years ago and sold them to many members on this board. They were grade 8, zinc coated and cost about 25.00 each. If there is enough interest, I would consider having them made for the cat 22, big 15, small twenty.

If you press them to collapse the spring make sure you have enough travel in your ram because once the bolt is cut and you release the ram. The spring may not fully release and then the sledge hammer comes in handy to knock the spring out. and that could be dangerous. I cut one under compression years ago on a TEN and parts did fly both directions about 25'. Maybe a 22 you'll need 40'

The tracks on my 22 are well worn, and no room for adjustment. I removed a link and then it was too short. The problem was that the spring was adjusted to 19 1/4". I needed the 5/16". I could move the adj nut after PB Buster and heat only in the loose direction. I found the spring free length to be 21 1/2" and the bolt 27". I just backed the bolt and the spring drops out, with both nut and clamp bracket on the bolt. Cleaned and lub the bolt and nut and reasembled. After cleaning lub all 4 bolts look to be in good shape.


Bob K

hello bobk,the 22 track frame i got to replace the rusted out ones that were on the 22 i rebiult had a spacer bar between the rollers and the frame ,i gives you room to take up some of the slack in the track,bruce oz