Been doing a little investigating on the 2t that I bought for parts and wouldn't you know it, looks to me like it might be a runner. It appears to be in decent shape with the exception of a blown starter motor. It was running when parked!!
So my questions are, 1 the injection pump is getting fuel in the sump by gravity. Would it hurt to try and start and run the main engine for a short test before tearing into the pump just to make sure it runs ok?
2 I've read all the info on the seals and replacement but have never ventured into the magic box(a little scary)
I dont have an engine book for the d4400 but I looked at the d3400 book and it seems pretty straightforward to pull the pump. Will the two be similar?
3 maybe it will be obvious when its apart but my parts book only shows the location of one seal. I know there's 2 and it calls for 2 8b4967
The d3400 book shows a seal where the camshaft goes through but the parts book doesnt



Any tips from someone who has done this job would be greatly appreciated.
One other thing, it looks like the only timing is a slot where the camshaft connects to the drive gear. If that's the case it should be easy, if not I think the pucker factor just went way up

Hi d2gary,
The seals 8b4967 dose require 2 one at each end of the gallery as there is a plug there, also change the seals on the four pumps 2a3307 and i wold also change the fuel pump seals 1f5471 x 2 and 7b0305 that covers the whole fuel system.

Regard

Hi Team,
for now I would leave the two packings in the transfer pump alone, 1F5471, as it takes special tooling to crush them into place so they do not crumble apart--the old rope ones could be tamped into place, these new style ones are fragile and need to be pressed gently but firmly with the correct tools--I can re-post the drawings--the new methods have been discussed in previous posts on here many times over.
Just make sure that the between packings tell tale drain line out of the transfer pump body is clear and any leakage from the packings should drain to ground and not be pumped into the engine--mud daubers love these small openings.

Note, that the now triangular shaped O Rings under each injection pump start life as ordinary round O Rings.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

If you take the pumps off the housing to change those seals, have a depth mic lined up and reset the lifters while they are off. I have never seen those seals leak, and they will not leak into oil.

I am going to say don't run it if the oil is diluted. Turn off fuel at the tank, change oil and then turn on fuel and try the engine. There is a serious downside to operating with diluted oil!

Thanks for the tips. I guess when I get the pump off I'll see how much I need to do.