HELP HELP HELP

1st PROBLEM
So I decided to start the ole d2 last week and rather than deal with the pony I decided to just pull her and jump start. Well in neutral all was well but as soon as I pulled back on the master clutch there was no movement it was stuck. I took off the clutch cover plate to find a fair amount of rust in the clutch area. I soaked it in PB BLASTER and pull started her in 5th gear. Diesel fired up on the second revolution. NO CLUTCH I had to pull her out of gear or run into the Deuce & 1/2 that I used for towing . I let all heat up and still no clutch. I have soaked the entire area DAILY since (7 days ago) and still no clutch. I even tried prying a bit but I did not like to do that. This is really frustrating.

2ND PROBLEM

NO STEERING CLUTCHES

Everything worked fine 6 years ago. The stering clutch levers are not in the vertical position but are laying against the seat. LIMP as can be. No resistance.Even with the engine running and the tractor in gear I get nothing.


Brakes work great.

Is my cat dead????

I would appreciate any imput or suggestions.

Sincerely Fred O. Thatcher St.Louis,MO.
CELL # 314-540-4600

You don't have the second line of clutches to use when the main clutch is stuck and you have to stop! Don't know what good it will do you to break the main free if the steering clutches are that bad, but you could try shoving it off and then try to work it against something to slip the main clutch. Soaking the steering clutches probably isn't going to help if they're that bad, but it might help to get them to come off without breaking the drums.

Sounds to me as if the steering clutch discs are swollen with rust between them and the plates so that the pack is thicker than it's supposed to be. Sometimes when the steering clutches are removed, the keepers have to be cut to release the springs because there's no travel left because of the rust.

Fred,

I'd try loosening the main clutch adjustment about half a turn or so before I went any further. If that's frozen up and you can't adjust it, it's probably time to remove the engine and tear into the clutch. If the adjustment does loosen up, you might then reach in with a brass hammer and start tapping the driven plate to see if that'll loosen it up.

The steering clutches are an entirely different matter. Before you go soaking 'em with anything, you might try giving 'em a citric acid bath to dissolve the rust. It sounds like at this point, you don't have a lot to lose (unless you're really looking forward to tearing into the finals) and a lot to gain if the citric acid works.

As far as your critter being dead, let's just say it's one sick kitty instead at this point. They aren't truly dead 'til they're on the way to the scrap yard and this one sounds like it's not ready for that trip yet.

I'd try the Citric Acid trick on my tractor before I used a Lube/rust breaker.
I agree with Ol Grump

I haven't had a main clutch stick, but did the streering clutches 2 falls ago because they were stuck. Yes it is heavy work and I lucked out and didn't break anything when I pulled them apart. D2's are nice little tractor which in this part of the country are hard to get a good one. I'm in the process of doing a major on the engine and that has turned out to be a lot harder than the streering clutches because the main bearings are none existant. I had to have mine made. I just got the crank remanufacture and home today. I has been 7 months since it was torn down! Steering clutches took about 6 to 8 working days to complete, with wait time for the parts after I got it apart.

Gentlemen,
many thanx for your words of encouragement . What is odd is that the crawler was in excellent working condition when parked in a DRY 4 walled shed. I do not know where all the moisture came from.

Do you know of any D2 experts in the STL area????

Ours at home was parked every winter on whatever oil well we were working on prior to fall deer season. There it would sit until spring thaw.
Everything always worked.
We parked it for 5 or 6 years in the woods shaded on planks under a tarp with the clutch drain plugs out. Dad and I drove up there one day and pulled the rope, no spark! We pulled it over to the road and and rolled it down the hill, I ran along beside to throw the lever from Start to Run and away he went! It ran as good as the day it was parked!
We used it again for 8 to 10 years servicng oil wells until Dad got sick, then he had it trucked home where it sat for 2 years under a tarp beside the shop, not in the shade all day like in the woods. My brother was home to visit and they started it up and he winched out a couple of small tree stumps.
He came back here and said that it was having trouble turning left.
The moral of the story is depending on where they sit at a constant temperature like in the shade or sit beside a building where they get partial shade with the drain plugs out and HOW MUCH THE SEALS LEAK dictates what those darn clutches will do.

The Moral of the story is to run em when you change the batteries in your smoke detectors. So much to do in so litlte time.

My clutch sticks every spring, first time I try to start it. The clutch plate sticks to the flywheel due to rain over the winter. I simply release the clutch lever (engine off) then take a small prybar and insert it at the very edge of the clutch plate, between pressure plate and flywheel. One easy pry and I can hear it (clutch) seperate from the flywheel. It works every time and only takes a minute. Good luck.
Floyd