About 1 year ago I brought home a D6 9U cable dozer. A big reason was the CCU on the back, which I could use to operate my cable scraper. ( scraper is an marked as an Allis chalmers - AC-106-116 but I suspect was manufactured by La Plant Choate).

SO, I'm getting ready to attach the scraper. Is it recommended to leave the blade on the tractor and chain it in place - or should I remove it completely ?

Also, any tips on unwinding the dozer blade cable from the CCU - so I can wind up the scraper cable ?
I'm guessing just grunt and tug with some good gloves..

Thanks

That's a nice scraper. Don't have your answer, as I'm not a cable guy. Ummmm, is that another OilSlick Special? Would it be too small to hook behind Garlic's HD-15? It would make a nice pair if so.

I think it is your option whether you leave the blade on and chain it up or remove it completely.

Leaving it on is less work, and leaves you the option of push loading another operator. If you do try to push load while it is chained up, you want to be careful about how and where you attach the chain and make sure you've got enough strength in the chain that you don't break it. Push loading can put some pretty good down force on the blade when going over uneven ground.

Removing it is more work, but you'll have a little less weight hanging out the front, and a little less stuff to get tangled with someone or something else while you're looking back trying to run the scraper. You won't then have to worry about chaining the blade or breaking the chain if pushing.

If I remember right, your tractor has the blade cable run through the tube along the fender. I probably wouldn't remove the cable if I were you. It is a bit of a hassle rethreading it through the sheaves and tube. You could just unpin the blade lift sheave set from the back of the blade or C-frame, hoist it up against the hardnose sheave and chain it there. Then, go around to the CCU, manually pull the cable off the drum, undo the pinch or wedge and pull the cable out of the two sheaves on the CCU you'll need for the scraper, but don't pull it out of the corner sheave on the tube. Just loop it up there and tie it with some bailing wire.

If you want to remove the cable and are removing the blade, the easiest is to set the blade down where you want it, undo the trunion caps, undo the top sheave block from the hardnose and set it down with the blade. Then undo the cable from the CCU drum and back the tractor away, pulling the cable out of the CCU sheave tree, corner sheave and control tube and corner sheaves on the hardnose.

If you want to leave the blade on, but take the cable off, I think you're pretty much down to thick gloves and a forearm workout. Of course you could pull out some slack and fasten the cable to something, backing the tractor away from your anchor after loosening both ends.

Pete.

The only thing I would add, is DON'T try working on the cable while the engine is running, shut it down while pulling the cable off the drum, if the clutch grabs, it will drag the cable, and you, back on to the drum.

Thanks guys.

Juiceman, that scraper was donated to Oilslick by 7upuller. Oilslick then donated it to me (ROFLOL).
It really is in great shape. The project I acquired it for is now kind of in question, but dang this thing is handy for grading, shaping, etc etc.

I'll try leaving the blade on, I won't be pushing anyone else. If anything, I can push this scraper with my TD 15.

"TOGNOT" wrote:

Thanks guys.

Juiceman, that scraper was donated to Oilslick by 7upuller. Oilslick then donated it to me (ROFLOL).
It really is in great shape. The project I acquired it for is now kind of in question, but dang this thing is handy for grading, shaping, etc etc.

I'll try leaving the blade on, I won't be pushing anyone else. If anything, I can push this scraper with my TD 15.

I will try my hand at Deas Dialect; did you really mean you made DONa$HUN to Honest OilSlicks Emporium of slightly well worn ummm I meant well used antiquities???? Wow! This is the season of giving. Maybe I need to up my game and pay it forward in bigger ways. Any suggestions guys?
All kidding aside, that really is a nice looking scraper. I bet you could have plenty of fun with it.

If you leave the blade on the front, it makes it harder to turn corners with that extra weight hanging on the front. Take blade off and pull the selves up and chain it up and leave the cable in the tube and wire tie it at the back end of tractor and then put it up on the side of seat or fuel tank someplace and fasten it to something so it can't fall down. catskinner

I restrung the cable on my 14A dozer this year. The cable pushes down the tube very easily. The 14A has triple sheaves where you have doubles. If the sheaves all turn freely, it's a piece of cake to re-string it. I would drop the blade, it's only 4 bolts to pull the end caps off the trunnions and the pin on the lower sheave and you are free to go. I place a large block of wood under the side arms near the trunnions and back away. That way the blade mounts will be at correct height to re-install.

Hi, TOGNOT.
There are 2 (main) schools of thought on 'blade on-blade off'. I personally favor blade on 'cos for the extra traction - which is quite considerable, plus the less work aspect. Others favor blade off 'cos they reckon it improves the manouverability and it is less 'stuff' to get tangled up in when looking back at the scraper. For mine, a good operator will have a pretty clear picture in his mind of just where his rig in relation to everything else around him.

I worked for one contractor DowNunda who insisted on taking the blade as well as the rear hydraulic ripper off a Cat D7E with a HYDRAULIC blade and ripper 'cos for the 'extra manouverability'. I hadda LOTTA trouble getting traction to load a Letourneau LP Carryall in silty clay. (It was an older style hinged ripper and the CCU fitted neatly between the ripper lift ram towers.)

Azfer pushing other scrapers, forget it. To be high enough to be sure of clearing any pegs that you might need to get close to and/or not gouging into any banks that you might need to climb. it would need to be at least 2 1/2 -3 feet clear of the ground - WAY to high to be trying to push scrapers.

If you leave the blade on, I'd suggest pulling the cable out of the sheaves on the CCU and leaving it coiled up and tied securely to the back of the tractor somewhere. If you have a JD Gator or similar, you can use that to pull the cable off the drum with the control lever in 'float' but there is usually not that much on there. You really only need enough for a couple of turns left on the drum when the dozer cutting edge is 10" - 12" below the level of the tracks on flat ground - digging depth.

That is a nice scraper. The early A-C scrapers were 'ackshully' LaPlante-Choate 'cos that where A-C originally got their drawn scraper line when they bought LaP-C out.

Just my 0.02.