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Attaching cable scraper to D6 9U

Attaching cable scraper to D6 9U

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TOGNOT
Topic Author
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About 1 year ago I brought home a D6 9U cable dozer. A big reason was the CCU on the back, which I could use to operate my cable scraper. ( scraper is an marked as an Allis chalmers - AC-106-116 but I suspect was manufactured by La Plant Choate).

SO, I'm getting ready to attach the scraper. Is it recommended to leave the blade on the tractor and chain it in place - or should I remove it completely ?

Also, any tips on unwinding the dozer blade cable from the CCU - so I can wind up the scraper cable ?
I'm guessing just grunt and tug with some good gloves..

Thanks

[attachment=46195]image.jpeg[/attachment]
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juiceman
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Chapter Leader
Chapter Fifteen
That's a nice scraper. Don't have your answer, as I'm not a cable guy. Ummmm, is that another OilSlick Special? Would it be too small to hook behind Garlic's HD-15? It would make a nice pair if so.
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catsilver
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The only thing I would add, is DON'T try working on the cable while the engine is running, shut it down while pulling the cable off the drum, if the clutch grabs, it will drag the cable, and you, back on to the drum.
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TOGNOT
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Reply to catsilver:
The only thing I would add, is DON'T try working on the cable while the engine is running, shut it down while pulling the cable off the drum, if the clutch grabs, it will drag the cable, and you, back on to the drum.
Thanks guys.

Juiceman, that scraper was donated to Oilslick by 7upuller. Oilslick then donated it to me (ROFLOL).
It really is in great shape. The project I acquired it for is now kind of in question, but dang this thing is handy for grading, shaping, etc etc.

I'll try leaving the blade on, I won't be pushing anyone else. If anything, I can push this scraper with my TD 15.
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neil
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Admin
Reply to TOGNOT:
Thanks guys.

Juiceman, that scraper was donated to Oilslick by 7upuller. Oilslick then donated it to me (ROFLOL).
It really is in great shape. The project I acquired it for is now kind of in question, but dang this thing is handy for grading, shaping, etc etc.

I'll try leaving the blade on, I won't be pushing anyone else. If anything, I can push this scraper with my TD 15.
GP, if one does take the blade off and pull the cable out via the front, is there any value in tying a thin light rope to it to leave in the tubing, sheaves, etc. to simplify re-threading when re-installing?
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juiceman
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Chapter Leader
Chapter Fifteen
Reply to TOGNOT:
Thanks guys.

Juiceman, that scraper was donated to Oilslick by 7upuller. Oilslick then donated it to me (ROFLOL).
It really is in great shape. The project I acquired it for is now kind of in question, but dang this thing is handy for grading, shaping, etc etc.

I'll try leaving the blade on, I won't be pushing anyone else. If anything, I can push this scraper with my TD 15.
[quote="TOGNOT"]Thanks guys.

Juiceman, that scraper was donated to Oilslick by 7upuller. Oilslick then donated it to me (ROFLOL).
It really is in great shape. The project I acquired it for is now kind of in question, but dang this thing is handy for grading, shaping, etc etc.

I'll try leaving the blade on, I won't be pushing anyone else. If anything, I can push this scraper with my TD 15.[/quote]

I will try my hand at Deas Dialect; did you really mean you made DONa$HUN to Honest OilSlicks Emporium of slightly well worn ummm I meant well used antiquities???? Wow! This is the season of giving. Maybe I need to up my game and pay it forward in bigger ways. Any suggestions guys?
All kidding aside, that really is a nice looking scraper. I bet you could have plenty of fun with it.
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catskinner
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Reply to juiceman:
[quote="TOGNOT"]Thanks guys.

Juiceman, that scraper was donated to Oilslick by 7upuller. Oilslick then donated it to me (ROFLOL).
It really is in great shape. The project I acquired it for is now kind of in question, but dang this thing is handy for grading, shaping, etc etc.

I'll try leaving the blade on, I won't be pushing anyone else. If anything, I can push this scraper with my TD 15.[/quote]

I will try my hand at Deas Dialect; did you really mean you made DONa$HUN to Honest OilSlicks Emporium of slightly well worn ummm I meant well used antiquities???? Wow! This is the season of giving. Maybe I need to up my game and pay it forward in bigger ways. Any suggestions guys?
All kidding aside, that really is a nice looking scraper. I bet you could have plenty of fun with it.
If you leave the blade on the front, it makes it harder to turn corners with that extra weight hanging on the front. Take blade off and pull the selves up and chain it up and leave the cable in the tube and wire tie it at the back end of tractor and then put it up on the side of seat or fuel tank someplace and fasten it to something so it can't fall down. catskinner
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Paso Bob
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Reply to catskinner:
If you leave the blade on the front, it makes it harder to turn corners with that extra weight hanging on the front. Take blade off and pull the selves up and chain it up and leave the cable in the tube and wire tie it at the back end of tractor and then put it up on the side of seat or fuel tank someplace and fasten it to something so it can't fall down. catskinner
I restrung the cable on my 14A dozer this year. The cable pushes down the tube very easily. The 14A has triple sheaves where you have doubles. If the sheaves all turn freely, it's a piece of cake to re-string it. I would drop the blade, it's only 4 bolts to pull the end caps off the trunnions and the pin on the lower sheave and you are free to go. I place a large block of wood under the side arms near the trunnions and back away. That way the blade mounts will be at correct height to re-install.
D-4 7U-43159 with 4S dozer and Cat 40 scraper, D-7 3T-1179 with Cat 7S hydraulic dozer, D-7 17A 13,944, D-8 14A-1160 with Cat 8S cable dozer, Cat 12-99E-4433 Grader. All runners and users.
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Deas Plant.
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Reply to Paso Bob:
I restrung the cable on my 14A dozer this year. The cable pushes down the tube very easily. The 14A has triple sheaves where you have doubles. If the sheaves all turn freely, it's a piece of cake to re-string it. I would drop the blade, it's only 4 bolts to pull the end caps off the trunnions and the pin on the lower sheave and you are free to go. I place a large block of wood under the side arms near the trunnions and back away. That way the blade mounts will be at correct height to re-install.
Hi, TOGNOT.
There are 2 (main) schools of thought on 'blade on-blade off'. I personally favor blade on 'cos for the extra traction - which is quite considerable, plus the less work aspect. Others favor blade off 'cos they reckon it improves the manouverability and it is less 'stuff' to get tangled up in when looking back at the scraper. For mine, a good operator will have a pretty clear picture in his mind of just where his rig in relation to everything else around him.

I worked for one contractor DowNunda who insisted on taking the blade as well as the rear hydraulic ripper off a Cat D7E with a HYDRAULIC blade and ripper 'cos for the 'extra manouverability'. I hadda LOTTA trouble getting traction to load a Letourneau LP Carryall in silty clay. (It was an older style hinged ripper and the CCU fitted neatly between the ripper lift ram towers.)

Azfer pushing other scrapers, forget it. To be high enough to be sure of clearing any pegs that you might need to get close to and/or not gouging into any banks that you might need to climb. it would need to be at least 2 1/2 -3 feet clear of the ground - WAY to high to be trying to push scrapers.

If you leave the blade on, I'd suggest pulling the cable out of the sheaves on the CCU and leaving it coiled up and tied securely to the back of the tractor somewhere. If you have a JD Gator or similar, you can use that to pull the cable off the drum with the control lever in 'float' but there is usually not that much on there. You really only need enough for a couple of turns left on the drum when the dozer cutting edge is 10" - 12" below the level of the tracks on flat ground - digging depth.

That is a nice scraper. The early A-C scrapers were 'ackshully' LaPlante-Choate 'cos that where A-C originally got their drawn scraper line when they bought LaP-C out.

Just my 0.02.
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7upuller
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Deceased
Reply to Paso Bob:
I restrung the cable on my 14A dozer this year. The cable pushes down the tube very easily. The 14A has triple sheaves where you have doubles. If the sheaves all turn freely, it's a piece of cake to re-string it. I would drop the blade, it's only 4 bolts to pull the end caps off the trunnions and the pin on the lower sheave and you are free to go. I place a large block of wood under the side arms near the trunnions and back away. That way the blade mounts will be at correct height to re-install.
Hey Tognot,

Remove the blade. Take the cable off the CCU and roll it up, bayle wire it in a nice loop, leave it on the blade.

Cable should be on the scraper already. Thread it to the CCU and wedge it in place. Feel free to call me, 415-720-5936
Glen
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Tugger
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Reply to 7upuller:
Hey Tognot,

Remove the blade. Take the cable off the CCU and roll it up, bayle wire it in a nice loop, leave it on the blade.

Cable should be on the scraper already. Thread it to the CCU and wedge it in place. Feel free to call me, 415-720-5936
Glen
Im not a scraper guy ,but ive always used this trick for reeving tight sheaves. If you have removed cable from the sheaves weld , braze or fuse a 10 foot piece of 1/4" galvanized cable to the end of your cable.If your replacing cable weld the new cable to the old one and pull it thru.Ive always done this on clam buckets ,crane topping lines and even changing lines on the crane if your in an awkward spot like on a barge. It makes nasty cable work a lot easier,especially with bigger cable.The D6 and the scaper sounds fun,sure like the sound of the 318 when it works.
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