I adjusted my clutch today after I abused it pushing a big tree over. It was really hot... after adjusting it I started it with the cover off and I couldn't see any oil flowing. Should I be able to tell that the oil pump is working? It doesn't want to snap in right and pops out. I rebuilt the pump when i had the bell housing off. Probably only got about 10hrs on it so far. Any ideas?
Thanks Jesse

You will not see oil flowing but you should see oil being slung around by the clutch.
Did you recently service the pump suction screen at the bottom/back of the clutch housing?
Ignore the flow control valve statement in the attached description. The D6 U models do not make use of this item.

Yes I did clean the screen. I think I'll pull the pump out and have a look at it.

With the pump out and open, check gear side clearance and gear tip to housing clearances.
Have you had the clutch out and apart? If no pumping the drive pin that powers the oil pump may be missing or sheared.

Yes I did have the clutch out and apart. The pump was in bad shape. I put new pump gears and shaft in it at that time. I don't remember a drive pin. There is woodrof keys on the gears and there all new.

The driving pin would not be obvious when you pulled the pump off. It is in the pressure plate area forward of the adjusting ring. The part is called the plate assembly and the pump drive gear bolts to the back of it. The resulting assembly is spool shaped and carries the rotary motion of the rear driving plate through the release bearing to the pump drive gear.

You can test for its presence by seeing if the driving gear for the oil pump is coupled to the engine with the clutch disengaged. In either case, I believe the pump should turn with the clutch engaged. You could test that if you find that it is not coupled to the engine.

The single dowel (Item #3) in the clutch loading plate and sleeve (one piece) is what the pump drive gear is mounted to. When you look in the cover opening when the engine is running you should see the drive gear turning. It should turn so long as the engine is running whether the clutch is engaged or not. New gears in the pump are great but housing and cover clearances also need to be maintained.

Well I found why I had no oil now I have to figure why a new 4140 shaft broke. The bigger drive gear that turns the pump gear is a little rough and has funny wear pattern from previous damage. Do you think that would cause the broken shaft?
Thanks Jesse

I doubt a rough pump gear would cause that.
Pump shafts have been known to get bent and eventually break if the pump is installed on the cover when maneuvering the clutch and housing assembly in to place and the gear gets bumped. Recommended procedure is to install the pump after the assembly is installed.

agree with OM.
That is a static bending fracture most likely either from having the pump installed on the clutch housing before installing same or pump drive teeth were not aligned/engaged before tightening the pump mount bolts.
As OM said fit the clutch assembly and main housing then install the pump last being sure teeth engage and that the pump goes on the dowels by hand, and squarely sitting against its mount faace, before tightening any bolts up. Check for pump gear tooth clearance as you are doing up said pump mount bolts.
Cheers,
Eddie B.