There is a thread on here somewhere with photo's?
Luckily on a D4 you can access the clutch packs by taking the cover off the transmission case under the seat.
Generally you can just clean the offending pieces and maybe replace a few worn bearings and seals and be ready to go.
Its not like a D2 where you need to take the track off and a final drive.

Are you still unable to run it around in the open and in the dirt?
If you have access to open ground and a larger tow vehicle this method should work:
Several years ago I acquired a 5T D4 with stuck steering clutches. It was in a snow area in the Sierra Nevada and had not run in ~5-10 years. I have access to vacant land near me and and an RD7 tow vehicle. Garlic Pete and I had fully 'released' the clutch adjustments (to no avail) when we retrieved it. I tied both clutches fully back, put it in neutral, joined the units hitch to hitch with a 'dogbone' (short, heavy chain would work) and drug it around for an hour or so in 'figure eights' as tight as the pair would do. After some time one clutch came loose so I released it and continued until the other came loose. I never have readjusted the steering clutches as they work okay (machine does not get much use). I did not try the diesel soak as I was hoping brute force would work.
Your machine supposedly worked eight months ago so I would think it might respond to this method.

Good luck, Daron

These aren't exactly what I am looking for, but!
www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?17236-D4...ck-steering-clutches
www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?22805-d4-steering-clutches
You need to get a set of Manuals to help you along on this process!

The only problem is where I have the dozer at now is all concrete, I'm trying to fix it up before I bring it up to my property which is 3 hours away. I'd hate to bring it up there to work in the dirt to try to free it up and it not work then have to bring it back to work on it. To remove the clutches do I need to remove the top half of the trans as well? I've been trying to find pictures online

Might not directly relate being different machines but... never know

My steering clutches were also stuck. What I did was removed the drain plugs (1/side and found directly below the clutch area). I also removed the screws that hold the clutch bands up to keep the top of the clutch assembly from riding on the clutch body (also found just ahead of the drain plugs. Mine were socket head cap screws but am told the original ones are slotted to be turned with a screw driver with a jam nut). I ended up tapping on the bands with a 2" wood dowel and a hammer until they moved free atleast on the backside. I then used the machine to break the front side free. I did lube up all of the hinge points and adjustment screw with a penetrating oil. I then washed the whole assembly with paint thinner through one of those Napa air/liquid spray guns, drove the machine around the shop, washed with more paint thinner and repeated until I felt that I had grip and no slip. While driving, I would apply the steering clutches slightly while soaked Inc thinner to condition the clutch material and kinda machine the contact surface of the clutch body.

If you use diesel or oil or anything with lubricity, I found my brakes would slip and not grip. I then followed up with a small application with grease on the adjustment and hinge spots. I did end up removing the top covers to access the hinge spots.

Cleaned out the dirt from the area and drilled out the drain plugs to install large cotter pins to keep the hole clear. I did end up slotting the adjustment screws to allow drainage from the area where they get bolted.