Mighty small inside the crank case, had a heck of a time just getting the caps off and the rods out, now I am ready to put 'em back and I am wondering how you get a torque wrench on 'em in there?

Thanks Glenn (D2G2)

Yes it is a little tricky but I did dozens of them at the dealer and to be easier the top needs to be off & the cam out too helps. It also takes a combination of wrenches to get in there and also the engine needs to be turned in different positions to get the nuts where you can get a wrench on them. Also I used a long extension on the ratchet & swivel head socket to get at a couple of them easier through the bore of one of the cylinders.Also positioning the crank just right is what you need to do so it,s a trial and error method but after you do one or two you learn the knack of it.

I was doing the same thng last night installing piston & rods. The top nut is easy but the bottom rod bolt I had to start the nut by holding it in location with a magnet, and of course when I installed the caps the bottom rod bolt would be the one to push out a little and you can't get to it to push it back in, so I had to turn the bottom nut one little positon at a time until it drew up. I used a small inch/lbs torque wrench and like SJ said, it worked at only just the right spot. When I disassemble the pony engine it didn't have the cotter pins in the rod bolts, I think I'm going to do the same. Did your engine have the cotter pns in it?
I installed new valve's & guides, ground the seats, honed the cylinders, new rings, rod bearings, rebuilt carb. Might have been cheaper to buy a small block chevy and try to bolt it on:rolleyes:

Thanks SJ and Tom, I had a heck of a time getting bottom bolt out of the #1 rod, it was stuck in there good, I finally got it out by looking through cylinder #2 and tapping on it with a long brass rod. All the rod end nuts had a cotter pin that was a super pain to get at, and the nuts were on so tight that I wasn't sure I could break them free, the book says 14 footpounds but these bad boys had a lot more than that. I really lucked out on this engine (I think), it was on a D2/T2 conversion that I picked up on a deal for a nice D46U, the tractor looked real bad, it had been sitting for 10 years with the stack uncovered in salty soil, but when I opened up both engines they look like near zero time units. No visable wear on the pony or main, and gaskets that weren't exposed to outside elements look like they had just been installed, cylinders 2 & 3 on the main are stuck and will need tobe replaced, but 1 & 4 look great. I started taking the tractor apart because I had a few hours on my hands and to part it out, looks like I may have picked up a spare engine.
Thanks Again, Glenn

I Just did a D2 pony motor last week-I had the top off and used a 1/4" drive torque wrench and had no problem torquing the rod bolts after I learned to turn the crank so I could get at em.
Pusher