Hi Rusty-
You may find some good info here:

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?25677-Cat-d6c-power-shift

Couldn't help but notice your maintenance manual is for later serial machines than yours, possibly after the change was made to turbocharged 3306.

Best of luck, my first job on a crawler was a late 10K and I blame it for me catching "the bug".

Hi rusty, is that a final drive leak on RH side in pictures first posted? Get a bar between sprocket and housing,if any movement bearings need nipping up and or replaced. Repair manual should show what's involved. Nice machine good luck with it..... Bill:thumb:

"cab" wrote:

Hi Rusty-
You may find some good info here:

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?25677-Cat-d6c-power-shift

Couldn't help but notice your maintenance manual is for later serial machines than yours, possibly after the change was made to turbocharged 3306.

Best of luck, my first job on a crawler was a late 10K and I blame it for me catching "the bug".

That link is very helpful thank you! I will wait till I get a repair manual to tackle it. I hope it is just some worn linkages.
Yes the maintenance manual is for later serial machines. It is a 35 page booklet that is pretty basic and just shows where to grease and how to change the oil. Is there much difference in changing the oil on 3306 and and D333C? I have a line on a repair manual that is the proper manual for my machine, it also includes maintenance the manual. Hopefully I can snag it. I missed one on ebay the other day.....it went for $51 bucks! Most of them are selling for $200+!

"8k wrote:

Hi rusty, is that a final drive leak on RH side in pictures first posted? Get a bar between sprocket and housing,if any movement bearings need nipping up and or replaced. Repair manual should show what's involved. Nice machine good luck with it..... Bill:thumb:

Thanks for the tip bill. I don't recall seeing any leaks from the final drive but I will take a closer look. Its funny how you can walk around a machine and look but until you really know what to look for you can miss alot. I read about checking the movement of the sprocket in the maintenance manual. I wish I had known how to do that before I bought the dozer but hopefully it will check out ok.
It has been dreadfully hot and humid here. I hope we get some relief from this soon. In the mean time I will leave it parked in the shade and wittle away at the to do list. Thanks to all of you for you help. This forum is a great resource.

The guy I bought this dozer from told me that an old dozer mechanic told him to keep this dirt around the base of the valve cover and to wet it down at beginning fo the day before you run the dozer. I guess it's suppose to help keep it from leaking? I honestly forgot the story on that one. Myth or?
(Click on the pictures for larger picture)

What is this? There is one on each side of the radiator cowl.

The thick pieces of metal are welded on both track frames. Are they used to stiffen the frame?

I checked the right hand final drive and it is leaking. I checked the oil and it was alittle low. The left side checked ok. I got a 4 foot bar and couldn't get the sprockets to move on either side.

There will be no screwing the right side tilt arm in.....she's welded solid on both ends!

Is the bolt farthest away the pressure relief bolt that will let grease out to loosen the track tension?

I need to remove the guards off the track and clean the dirt out but all the bolts are rusted solid in place. I guess I will cut off the bolts with a cutting torch and then grind down and screw them out the backside.

Shot a short video right after I started it. I usually do not rev a motor like this until it is warmed up but here ya go.

Hey RB88,

The studs sticking out the side of the hard nose on each side are to hang the cylinders on if you drop the blade. There are small brackets on the inside of dozer cylinders. If you were to remove blade, lift cylinder up with chain and hook brackets to those studs to hang cylinders for safe keeping until used again.
Glen

"7upuller" wrote:

Hey RB88,

The studs sticking out the side of the hard nose on each side are to hang the cylinders on if you drop the blade. There are small brackets on the inside of dozer cylinders. If you were to remove blade, lift cylinder up with chain and hook brackets to those studs to hang cylinders for safe keeping until used again.
Glen

Thanks Glen. It's pretty neat how these tractors are so well thought out.

I adjusted the shifter linkage today. I can get neutral but lost 3rd gear. It will work for now until I can fix it right.

I also adjusted the deaccelerator pedal linkage. I felt comfortable enough to take it down the hill and push over a few small trees. I ran it for probably 20 mins and it was a lot of fun! I am waiting on my oil to make it in so I can change the oil. Thanks for all the help thus far.

I must say the previous owner came up with good line for not cleaning engine off. I am a good procrastinator but would think a new gasket would be in order. With another bet that the valve covers have been over tightened in the past and may need replacing rather than straightening to make them stay clean.

My guess about the steel welded to track frame is to make a step as the cover piece you are missing on older models had flat place to us as a step. More useful on a ag Cat as with a dozer the push beam makes good step.


From the school of had knocks a clean engine is better. Ran JD 95 H combine that had JD248 diesel engine that turned into real piece of junk when the new was warn off. Had Roosa Master pump that seeped all over and sat under the exhaust manifold.Washed the chafe off every morning by pouring a gallon of water over it.Didn't do it one morning,several hours later had it on fire.With 3 fire extinguishers I did save the country side ,burned that worthless junk engine up. But I was very busy until help finally showed up.

So I clean all engines with air/water depending when I get them close to air/water as I don't have a service truck with air.