What are some coming causes for making a pony motor hard to start once its warmed up? It starts usually on the first pull when it's cold but then after that you have to pull forever. I removed the carburetor yesterday and everything looked good inside none of the jets were plugged. The cork float had a lot of holes in it but I'm guessing that is normal. If I replace the float what is the float level heigth? I'm still waiting for my service manuals I bought off ebay. Any help appreciated.
TomP

I have always heard that the coil in the magneto can break down and short out when it gets hot. If you do eventually get it to crank (while it's still hot), then I would doubt that is it. Easy to check, see if it throws a hot spark from a disconnected wire to the plug or block.

Other possiblilties if you find a weak spark, are weak condenser (capacitor) or incorrect point gap.


Othere than ignition problems, it sounds like vapor lock or possibly stuck valves. If the engine runs good while cool, the carb shouldn't be the problem. So you are looking for something else.

If you want to replace the float, install it, hold the top of the bowl upside down so the float rests on the needle and then make sure the top of the float is parallel with the bottom of the bowl cover. Unless there is a problem with the float, (heavy for some reason?) this starting point should be correct.

Because it starts well when cold, but not when warm, one cause could be the magneto coil is bad.

Tom, my D2 had that problem for years before I decided to fix it.
It would not restart when warmed up. I finally replaced the points and capacitor. End of problem and no more having to park on a slope over lunch for the restart, or let idle for an hour.
Replace the points and cap. This is easy and a cheap first step.
I suspect the capacitor as the primary culprit, as temperature can affect it more than any other component.
Good luck.

Thanks, I will give that a try. I have the dash out and much of the pony disassembled, I have to drill out a broken exhaust stud and replace some gaskets. I'm still waiting for my manuals but I'm guessing if you want to adjust the valves you have to pull off the manifold,I guess it might not be a bad idea since I'm in it this far.

I forgot to ask if there was any type of ajustment to the timing? It looks like the mounting holes on the mag aren't elongated. and are the points fixed or do they move on the mount? I thought timing could also maybe be an issue.

There is no adjustment for the pony valves.
Proper clearance is obtained by grinding the valve stems and valve seats, just like the old flathead Fords.
Attached timing the mag instructions.

Hey eric how do you get an hour for lunch????

Well........let's just say everyone is happy....

Sorry, gotta go, game starting.
I just wish they could find someone here in the states that could sing a song without adding their worthless interpertation of how it should be sung.

So sad..

Eric