Hi! I just bought a D2. Serial # 5U12187. It has a angle blade with tilt also and a Hyster D2n winch. I found that # on the left side of the engine. The Owner used it at his mountain land up till a year ago. Both steering clutches are froze, the pony motor turns free, and the engine's not froze. I am going to load it around the first maybe try to start it, I would like some specs on it such as weight, year, hp , and etc. Any info I can get to point me in the right direction as far as manuals, parts venders, and other links to help me in my restoration process would be great. I'll post some pics when I get it home. Thanks

Hi,
Well I've been through the throws of a D2 experience. Mine is setup like your's. We are about 1500 S/N apart. Note that the final drive systems on a D2 are tough to get apart. Clutch parts are readily available but pricey. Inner clutch drums and brake drums are starting to become avail thru a few importers. Weight as your's is equipped is approx 9000 lbs. That's the figure I am using for mine. Servicing information is readily available thru caterpillar legenday publications. I'd plan on getting the parts manual, Serviceman's manual, and the Operation manual. There is a seperate manual for the type 44 hydraulic system your dozer has. PLEASE STAY AWAY FROM JENSALES, while their manuals are somewhat cheaper, their quality is sorely lacking. CAT prices for manuals run about 50-65 dollars @. Sometimes EBAY has manuals listed for less, good to check there. Google searches on Caterpillar D2 will yield some good info about 4-5 pages back from the first. Of course many here on this list have D2's and will chime in. Don't be afraid to ask questions.

"ostwaltonsite" wrote:

Hi! I just bought a D2. Serial # 5U12187. It has a angle blade with tilt also and a Hyster D2n winch. I found that # on the left side of the engine. The Owner used it at his mountain land up till a year ago. Both steering clutches are froze, the pony motor turns free, and the engine's not froze. I am going to load it around the first maybe try to start it, I would like some specs on it such as weight, year, hp , and etc. Any info I can get to point me in the right direction as far as manuals, parts venders, and other links to help me in my restoration process would be great. I'll post some pics when I get it home. Thanks

I have a D311 engine parts manual for a 51B1 to 51B3139-$25---my D2 has a 7S model engine so i don't need this manual

Thanks Al. I'll know more about it when I get it home. I was guessing around 10,000 lbs from what I had found. I'm a heavy mechanic, but I work on newer stuff. Mainly trackhoes and big HDD rigs so this will be fun. My Granpa had one on the sawmill when I was young so my dad And I want to fix this one up to play around with. My dad can't remember exactly how to use the pony. It's been about 30 years since he has done it. can you help.

Crankin the pony!
Check the oil for gasoline dilution. Very important!

Turn on gas

Choke is out to start, in to run as it warms up. Lots of them have to have a lot of choke to stay running even when warmed up.

Throttle is out to slow down, it limits how far the governor can pull the throttle open. Push it in to allow the governor to have more room to open the throttle.

don't forget the mag switch!

Wind rope around pulley in the direction of the arrow and pull smartly, all the way off. Make sure the knot comes out of the notch so it doesn't wind the rope back up and snatch it out of your hands.

Or just hit the starter.

Push throttle control all the way in and as the engine speeds up, the governor should keep the throttle lever well short of the throttle rod stop without a load and the pony engine should run around 3000 rpm.


Once you get it running, idle it down and move the front (pinion clutch/brake) lever hard back to brake the pinion.

While holding the brake back, lift the right lever (pinion shift) so it engages the pinion with the flywheel of the diesel engine and latches in. If it grinds, hold back harder on the clutch/brake lever. Once the pinion is latched in, the pinion shift lever will flop back forward.

Decompress the diesel engine by pulling the lever above the starting motor mag switch out toward you. then give the pony motor some throttle (push in throttle knob) and engage the pinion clutch by pushing the left lever forward from the braked position until it snaps over center. The main engine should be turning now.

Turn it without compression to get oil pressure up and then close decompression to make it warm the diesel engine up faster. (this makes heat from compression and works the pony motor harder so the exhaust will heat the intake air better) After a few minutes to a half hour depending on the conditions. open the diesel throttle, pull back on the lever at the operators station. It should snap over a detent from the shutoff position and you should see lots of white smoke from the atomized fuel being injected. As it fires, the white smoke will be mixed with puffs of black and hopefully away she goes.

the pinion latch will kick out at about 33-3500 rpm (which is faster than the 3000 rpm governed speed the pony should be turning when turning the main engine. If it kicks out too soon, and the diesel hasn't started, the pinion latches can be adjusted through a small hole near the left brake, or you can just hold the pinion in with the right lever until you can adjust it. Best to take care of the adjustment soon though.

shut off the gasoline to the pony motor and let it run dry.

ENJOY!

10,300 across the scales.
See "D2 now home" for pictures of mine.
51 D2 5U 78XX Cat 2A blade and hyster D2N Winch 16" tracks.

Good luck with yours.
I have to do my left steering clutch and may do the right at the same time as there will not be that much more to take apart at that time.

Got some tips from SteveA.
Remove blade assy.
Split tracks at front idler
Walk tractor backwards off tracks. (just the drive sprocket)
Then unbolt cross bar from bottom of transmission and front spring from engine.
Then jack up the whole works leaving the track group on the tracks.
Then roll track group forward to get clearance on the finals.

YOU REALLY NEED A MANUAL. Before you get this far.
Plan ahead and know what your are going to need for work area and lifting and blocking. SAFETY FIRST.
Search the posts for pictures and more information on your tractor.

Reproduction manuals are great shop manuals, but you need good pictures that are in the originals. Details can make a big difference some times.
Engine
chassis
operators Has most of the normal day to day maintenance and operating instructions. IE where do I check.... grease.... lots more places than one might think. suprised me.
44 hydraulics? Not a whole lot in it but some very worth while details.

Where abouts in NC. I am near Greensboro.
Cheers
Dudley

thanks dc. I live in Troutman and the tractor is at the end of hwy 90 past Lenoir where 90 turns to dirt then 4 miles of trail. Going to get it sunday but have to leave for a job in Louisianna monday so it will be six months or so before I can work on it. Oh well.

sounds like fun:D

FYI Mine came out of Jefferson NC area halfway to Mouth of Wilson VA

Have fun in the Bayou state. I like the music down there.
Don't work to hard:)

Give me a note PM when you return from LA. Hopefully I will have done my clutches by then.

Cheers and safe travels
Dudley

When you get your service manual, pay close attention to the factory service techs shown in the illustrations. You will need to purchase a white lab coat before you begin any repairs.

And after completing said repairs the lab coat is supposed to still be spot free.