Dose anybody have a way to repair the corrosion pits in the block where the o rings go? My block hassome moderate pits and corrosion that are just above the first o ring that might tear them when I put in the liners in cyls 2/3.I heard of putting J-B weld in the pits and sanding smooth. Has anybody tried this or do you have any other tricks that will work? I swear this tractor is trying to drive me to drink LOL Thanks Scotty

I love it.
You need to get rid of any rust or corrosion before applying it.
Leave a rough surface for the JB to hang onto.
I have a 70 chevy front 4x4 spindle that was built up with JB and filed to size.
Still there and working fine. 15 years+
Front pin bolster on 73 135 diesel. built up and ground to size. 8 + years

I am not intimate with your details on o-ring grooves and mechanical support for the liner. However I suspect that you will be fine. From the sounds of it the section missing is containing the oring next to the water jacket. ??

I suspect that there is mechanical support for the liner in good shape below this point??? The only pressures on that should be the cooling system and minor side load at the bottom of stroke cycle. The liner takes the brunt of the forces.

Apply JB
Drink Beverage while it sets. Or prep something else. Must be mroe to do than wait for glue to dry....

Keep us posted.
pictures help, too.

Cheers
Dudley
My CAT work has just begun.

I had my machinist recommend 'ThreeBond' liquid gasket 1104, for a bad crack where the liner seals, at the bottom of the block. I was going to use automotive silicone, but he said this was much better. My block was split in 3 cylinders from top to bottom of the liner hole. We ignored the crack at the top, since the head gasket seals the leak anyway, and liner protrusion was a constant .003".

Although this is not the quite problem you have, I wanted to post it for others who have deteriorated blocks. I applied this 'gray goo' all around the o-rings and also the bore before sliding the liner in. I have not found any coolant in the oil pan yet. Phil

Get away from the JB stuff and go to a Devcon product. Not much difference in price in equal volume.

Available for many different applications- steel- aluminum- titanium, and in various heat working ranges.

Available form MSC, Enco etc.--

I fixed some freeze cracks with JB Weld and it worked out good. I Vee'ed all surfaces and let it set up a week and applied another coat. When I ground on the JB I couldn't tell the difference between it and the cast iron. I am not saying JB is the best, only that it worked for me. I think 2 part epoxy products can work for a permenemt repair.

Tom

You could have a machine shop with with a portable boring bar bore out and sleeve the sealing area, then rebore the short repair sleeve to original size. Presto! It would be like brand new! This is a little more expensive, however, than the previously mentioned "fixes in a tube", which may work for you situation just as well.

Rick

I Did Some Cleaning And The Problem Lieswith Getting The Orings To Slide Past The Rust Pits Without Tearing Or Scoring The Oring .talked To Heav Truck Engine Rebuilder Who Has Done This Type Repair Before With Good Results . Just Wondered If Anybody In Yellow Fever Land Has Seen This Type Of Block Damage And What Repairs They Have Used . My Engine Machine Shop (pittsburg Machine Formerly Pittsburg Crank) Said They Can Bore And Sleve The Liner Bores But I Would Have To Remove The Engine And Dismantel To Have The Job Done But My Motor Looks Like New (bearings ,cam And Crank Etc) So I Would Like To Repair In The Machine. Thanks So Far Scotty

Hi Scotty,
at the Dealer here in OZ we used to ( still do) use Araldite two part epoxy mix to fill the rust pits to allow the lower liner seal rings to slide past without damage into their final working sealing areas. In the field I have also used the above for repair of the upper seal ring area with total success, as long as you are diligent in hand cleaning up for trueness it does work. We used to wire buff out the seal ring bore area until rust free as possible and epoxy away. Poor coolant servicing and cavitation ( in higher HP applications mainly) causes the errosion seen in this area. In later engines Cat fitted an extra seal ring which did not enter the bore fully to stop most of this type damage.
Hope this helps,
Eddie B.

Thats What I Wanted To Know ,to Hear From Some Body That Has Done This. I Am Not Afraid To Try But Sometimes It Pays To Ask If Any Body Did It And What Worked Or Didint I Am A Fleet Mech By Trade And This Toy/hobbie Has Become A Second Job And Experience Is Priceless !!!!! Thanks To All This Bb Is Excellent Source Of Expert Knowledge And Experience!!i Am Off To The Shop To Attempt Repairs!! Thanks And Happy Holidays To You And Yours, Scotty