My old blade - Cat 12 model 71D438, has a jammed blade pitch position. I am trying to loosen it up to change it to the 'drag' position. (this is with the blade tilted all the way forward) I can get all the required bolts loose but it just won't swivel forward. I guess it's jammed at the pivot point. The round beam that connects the blade beams is bent slightly - it should run parallele with the ground but curves up due to the bend. Any ideas on how to get this blade to swivel forward into the 'drag' position?

I have a 71D and I have got it to change pitch by loosening the nuts on the blade pitch and then rocking the machine back and forth with the blade lowered. A little penetrating oil might help. You also might be able to put a hydraulic jack between the top of the blade and the circle.

I used to run an old Galion blade that adjusted manually. I'd loosen the bolts and the blade would drop to the drag position by itself. .usually. If it didn't, I'd drop the blade on the ground and rock the machine back and forth and stop when I had it where I wanted it the same as D4 Doug mentioned.

I read in the 71 operators manuel that rocking the blade all the way forward was "drag" Umm I was taught that straight up and down is the normal way for a molboard to work in and rocked forward is to cut with. Whats up with this.

Aaron, i think George wants the blade in the drag posistion, correct me if im wrong but this position is for fast final trimming ? i would have loosened the bolts then lowered the blade until the cutting edge dug in, then moved the machine forward as suggested, maybe having to rock it a little. Regards Gordon.

Wow, one day and already four replies! I am amazed... As a new member, I think I'm going to enjoy this forum.
Okay... Yes, I would like to place the blade in the 'drag' position. It is used for 'finish' work and tends to 'pop-up' the small rocks; it also leaves a smoother appearance in the dirt.
As far as 'rocking' the blade back & forth, I think I tried that (Hey, I'm Ol George, maybe I forgot if I did it or not) but if I did perhaps I need to be more aggressive with it. I'm afraid I might break something - and then what? Also, I'm concerned about the round support that is bent; it is between the two blade beams (imagine one long bolt with threads on each end attached at two points - the blade beams. The threaded ends are the bolts required to loosen to get the blade to pivot) Well, it is bent upward slightly and I think it might be jamming the movement.
I'll try to 'rock' that thing along with some - a lot of, WD40 and perhaps I can use a hydraulic jack to try to straighten that cross-member a little. But that won't be until I replace the 'fork' piece in the control box to the left-side control that lowers the blade. Yep, I broke it... but luckily figured out what I broke - gotta call for the part.
I'll let you know how it goes and if anyone has anymore ideas please, my ears are open! Thanks.

D4, You have a blade similiar to mine, does the 'cross-member' I mentioned above rotate as the blade is pitched forward? In other words, is it one long bolt with threads at each end that is encased and required to ratate, or are the ends stationary with only the blade mechanism required to rotate? If it is the first, then I'm probably out of luck as I could not straighted the cross-member straight enough to get it to rotate smoothly. Thanks, Ol George.

The cross brace is fixed, the tilt arms pivot around the ends....a little bent won't matter. I'd post a picture but I'm having "technical difficulties" getting my HP scanner software running after microsoft hit me with their upgrades.

Hi George,
the blade mount brackets rotate on the shafts (as OM stated) and are retained by the big castleated nuts. These are notorious for seizing up when the blade tilt ability is not used. Have had to heat up the brackets at the pivot points to get them to free up. Loosen the castleated nuts and heat away with a big heating tip and plenty of diesel as the cheapest readily available penetrant. Often some persuasion with a big sledge hammer on the outside of the pivot area of the brackets will help also.
Will try and scan the info from a 98E No 12 Grader Serv. Man.
Hope this helps,
Cheers Eddie B.

PS a white dust coat and a new machine make it look and sound easy!!!!!

In reply to Aaron's question, I too learned that with the blade tilted forward was proper for cutting and doing final trim. Rolling it back works well for "mixing" the material that was cut and rolling it off to the edge of the road. After that, I leave the blade back and "roll" material back across the road. Another few passes with the blade forward to do final smoothing and it's done.

Also,I roll the blade forward in winter to cut ice on streets and roll it back for snow removal as in the back position, it throws the snow better. For cutting ice, I go slow but for snow removal, I run as high a gear as that POS Austin- Western will pull.