Hey guys, back to report again!

So I fixed the pinion all up, assembled the pony motor, installed it back in the dozer, and gave it a shot, and its again still not working. There are two issues that I see.

One, and im sure this is the issue now... I filled up the pony engine with oil, and the transmission with oil, started the pony, tried the lever and nothing again. So I took off the clutch adjustment plate, and there was oil in there. Im pretty sure these clutchs in the pony motor arent wet clutchs at all are they?

I also noticed that the pony engine oil was going down while the oil in the clutch adjustment area was filling up. I took a suction tube and was sucking the oil out and tried it a few times, but Im assuming that the clutchs are supposed to be dry, and that a seal on the back on the engine is actually gone now, and that I have to yank the damn thing out, again, and put in a new seal in the back of the pony engine, get some different clutch discs, and start over again.

Someone tell me I am wrong, and the damn thing just needs adjustment!

Im pondering if I yank it out again, I might just order an electric starter and go that route, and get some dynamite and blow this pony motor up!

The pony clutch is oil type, not dry.
By "not working" what is it that is not functioning???

Thanks for the quick reply!

I should have clarified a little, i engage the lever, and the pinion still doesnt turn the dozer motor over.

Im guessing im just not knowledged enough on how to set it. When the pony motor assembly was out and on the bench, I checked everything for proper operation, and everything did work correctly on the bench.

So Im guessing just play around with adjusting the clutch and something should happen.

Also regarding the engine oil dropping and going into where the clutch adjustment is, just to clarify, that would be normal?


Maybe I was premature on posting here, but I figured I better check this stuff out before I went any further!

There were a couple of pre assembly dimensions that had to be set up and then the latch release adjustment. Pretty sure I furnished those to you back some time ago. If it latched on the bench it should work when installed. You want to get the release rpm adjustment set right before starting.
Engine crankcase should take about 3 qts, transmission 1-1/4 qts.

Thanks again for the fast reply, I did do the settings on the bench, everything I could anyways.

Ill try it again tomorrow and see what happens, see if I can take a bit better of a look in there.

Thanks again for all the help I truely appreciate it.

items to check- engagement lever -is it moving freely and transferring motion to the fork internally ?
this can be checked with pony not running
you should be able to feel/hear the gears mesh to big engine fly wheel - unless they are perfectly lined up. if you are not feeling or hearing this engagement your issue is narrowed down to fork / engagement lever.
- it is possible that the push/pull pin got broke( it is spring loaded to return to lock pos.) on clutch plates internally in pony . you will be able to feel/hear the pin when pulled re-seat itself in lock position thru the tiny inspection/access plate on top of pony clutches . I built / bent an old 7/16 wrench to pull this pin to unlock pos. then turn the plate clockwise to adj.
I have removed 1 pony the the nose cone starter had striped the gears and one got lodged in between fork control arm and pony block , not allowing any movement of engagement lever at all .
if you end up removing pony there are 2 bolts hidden mid-way under pony motor on a strut , either drop skid plate or get creative with extensions and swivels W/ socket wrench, even more fun installing , drain antifreeze down to 1/4 full. once pony is free , tilt a little and remove the lower oil tube> cooler , this will make easier take out of pony and not damage the tube , then on re-install of pony get it in position in frame and re-install that tube .
when I remove a pony its always new gaskets and clutch plates ,and any thing else that needs replace if worn. its no fun pulling the pony , so shame on me if I don't put the easy stuff back in.

Look at the second pic on reply #34. Looks to me like the stamped sheet metal separator in the ball bearing is messed up. Could have got wacked with a chisel the last time the locknut was replaced.

OK fellas, made some progress, finally!

My issue was I had the clutch adjusted 100 percent the wrong way, and it was way way too loose. I read through this thread again, and took down notes of everything regarding, well, everything, took it down to our house site where the dozer is, and read through everyones suggestions. I looked on youtube and found a video that showed how the dogs were supposed to work to move the clutch disks, and I remembered I had turned the adjustment pin quite a bit the one way (which ended up loosening things) I read through the moderator petes long write up of things to suggest, and just kept turning the pin clockwise, till it was over adjusted, and finally it struck me what I did wrong. I took the starter out to do this, and took a trouble light down with me so I could really see what was going on. I over adjusted it, then back it off a little till I had it set right, then put er all back together and she worked!

Its a tad sticky when I pull out the lever to engage, so I think I still have to adjust the linkage a little bit, but as long as it starts for right now, Im a happy camper! Video below of my enjoyment, for your enjoyment.

BUT, I do have an issue! I have a leak. Ironically, it is on the only place that I used a brand new gasket, and its right behind the pup motor. So it looks like I have to take a bunch of crap off, and loosen the pup motor, and retighten everything. The leak is somewhere between the second bolt from the left and the bottom, and the third bolt hole from the left and the bottom. D'oh! I followed a bit of a tightening sequence (tightened it like a head on a small block ford engine), and Im hoping I overtightened it a little, and I just have to loosen a bolt a wee bit, and everything will be A-OK. Wishful thinking right?! haha

Thanks again everyone for your help with the pony engine parts and advice, its very much appreciated.

"Old wrote:

Those are some good pictures.
Diesel engine, starting engine crankcase and starting engine transmission should all be SAE 30.

Roll pin is to be installed at specific dimension measured 1.547" back from the rear of the bearing collar with 0.010 to 0.020" clearance between the pinion and spacer ( with pinion latch engaged).

Your "latch" is actually the pinion engagement lever.

That empty threaded hole is where the pinion latch should be. It is spring loaded and adjusted to a 3/16" height between the body and nut with the pinion latch engaged.
This is what latches the pinion in place and releases when centrifugal force reaches a certain rpm.

No reason you can't put an extra pin in there if you want to. Use the single wall type roll pin, not the wrapped type. They need to fit snug in the hole and be staked in place.

OM, what is that? How to do it.

Sorry to be so late with this post but I just noticed a chance to learn something.

Staked is the term for upsetting the metal, usually around a hole and pin or shaft so that it will not get loose and fall out. Done with punch or chisel or any method of peening/deforming the metal to assure retention. Not to be as severe as riveting as it is still expected to be able to dismantal the parts if required.