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D2-4U steering clutch time
D2-4U steering clutch time
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16 years 9 months ago #11246
by D2Dwyer
After a year away from the cat it has decided to freeze solid the steering clutches...not a job I am looking forward to. Does anyone have any pictures of the inside of the housing? My better judgment tells me I should be paying someone to do this job but why not try. What is the best place to block up the front end to get it ready for track and drive removal?
If anyone in Northern California, South Bay area has a facility to rent me some space with a gantry crane, Lets make a deal.
Ron
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16 years 9 months ago #11248
by bernie
D2Dwyer-These are some photos of my D42T. Not sure what similarities are between them. I used a 2 ton manual engine hoist for all of the lifting including the winch and the PCU.
Good luck and keep us posted.
www.picturetrail.com/uid6748227
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16 years 9 months ago #11249
by Steve A
My thinking if its only been one year they shouldent be stuck to bad, I would try working it first and if you get them loose try to clean the compartments, be sure they are dry, there are plugs in the bottom
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16 years 9 months ago #11250
by SJ
Ron, why don,t you try the soaking method first before you disassemble everything.Some use fuel oil & I believ some on here uses something else so maybe they,ll jump in & let you know. The D2 is a totally different setup for steering clutches as they are just inside the sprockets under the cover so tracks & sprockets & housings are in the way so have to be removed.The D4s are inside the rear housing under the seat so altho. the tracks etc. doesn,t need removing there are other things like the seat & top cover on the housing so both are a job but different style procedure.
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16 years 9 months ago #11335
by D2Dwyer
I think the soaking is the best route for now. Thanks for all the support so far. How does a gallon of WD40 with diesel thrown in for good measure sound? If I only do the one side, are the compartments separate? I heard the total is about 5 gallons, is this about right? I'll post the results. Thankfully the L side is fine.
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16 years 9 months ago #11352
by TractorDon
Ron, they can not be that bad in a year. Take out all the free play from the friction levers and give it another 4 turns beyond 0 free play and see what happens. You need to get a little aggressive with it to bust them loose. Don
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16 years 9 months ago #11365
by D2Dwyer
Don,
I pulled off the inspection cover and the lever is holding as far back as possible. The steering clutch lever doesn't even push the release mechanism any further, I couldn't pry it back so maybe a soak will help?
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16 years 9 months ago #11367
by Dandy Dave
Been there, Done that! The D2 is one of the toughest to get apart. You have to remove the blade, if so equiped, the tracks, the dead axle and roller frames, the draw bar, the fuel tank and fenders. After you get the final's off, you will need a press the pull the clutches from the carrier shaft and also will need to press it back on to do it right. If memory serves me right it is installed with 15 tons of force. The problem that I have seen with these cluches is that, rather than wear down, rust builds up between the plates and expands them over time. It is a real problem between the facings and linings. Another problem that I have seen is the bearings go bad because dust and dirt can get in them though a funnel that is suppose to catch oil that lubricats these bearings from just in front of the drivers seat. Some of the one that I did in the past were converted to grease which is much better. Good luck and Happy Trails, Dave!
1940 Cat 12 Grader 6M17
1956 Cat D2-5U
1956 Cat D6- 9U 23721
Copake, NY.
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16 years 9 months ago #11371
by TractorDon
Ah, stuck open, I assumed wrong. Do the soak and see what happens. Pretty tough when they are stuck open. Can't really manipulate anything.
If you don't have any luck and you are not in a hurry I might be able to help you if need be. I need to take care of Dunefanatics D2 first. Don
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D2-4U steering clutch time
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