Hello again,
I have gotten my flywheel clutch correctly adjusted. I did get the overcenter "snap" into place. I just needed to adjust it until I figured it out. It's a different type of setup than I am used to. The question that I have now is regarding availability of a part for my steering clutch linkage. The levers have a good 12" play before the steering clutches start to move. {I do have the inspection cover off} There is play {about 3" worth at the lever handle} in the linkage. I can fix that or live with it. The part that I believe is causing most of the play is the pin or pivot that the adjusting screw for the clutch rides on. The pins start to rotate almost at once when you pull the steering clutch levers, but the adjusting screws don't move for a lot more lever travel. The ramps in the channels that the adjusting screws ride in are worn. {assuming that there are supposed to be "channels" and that they are not just grooves worn in the pins by the adjusting screws.} I need to know if these are available, or if they might be repaired by welding and regrinding the ramps. Also, how much is involved in removing them? I assume the trans. case cover needs to come off, what holds the pins in? I have a wire feed welder, are the pins made out of a material that I can weld with it?
The way it is now you have to pull the levers as far back as you can to get clutch disengagement. {to get the clutch trunions to move about an inch or so.} I appreciate all the help!!
Thanks, Frank
P.S. The clutch adjustment is right on. Tightening the screw more will just start to disengage the clutch.

Just got done completely rebuilding the rear of my 7U. I replaced all the discs and steel, springs shaft seals and bearings, roller bearings on the trunion and roller bearings on the linkage.
Forgive me but, I'm having a hard time following your "ramps in the channels" are you talking of the trunnion shafts or... If you can take some pictures that may help the cause and give a clear "picture" (sorry for the pun) as to what needs to be done.

CMD

Frank. .if you could post some pics or part numbers, I"m scrapping out a D4 7J and the clutch mechanism, other than the parts in the transmission top (handles and linkage) are the same. If I'm reading your post correctly, you don't have to take the top off to access the parts you need to work on.

Grump, we do need to see the pics but from what I read I think the cover has to come off to access the trunion and shafts

CMD

Quite true about the top having to come off if the shafts have to be removed but my thought was that the problem might be in the adjusters themselves. IF the problem is any deeper than that, then yup, the top has to come off.

I guess we'll have to wait and see some pics/and or part numbers.

Hi guys,
Sorry that I was not clearer. The part that I am referring to I believe is called a "crank". From the Cat D-4 servicemen's reference book, on pg. 67 it is #4 and on pg. 68 it is #2 in the pictures on those pages. If any one has the book, I am still trying to figure out how to post pics. If you could post those pics I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I'll post them as soon as I can. The "cranks" are the eccentrics that the clutch adjusting screws ride against. From the steering clutch lever there is a rod that goes to the crank. {inside the case} From the crank back there is a rod going to the booster spring mechanism. The book I have calls the assembly that the adjusting screw goes through a trunnion. {same book pg. 76 #2 in the picture.} When the steering clutch lever is pulled, the crank rotates. The adjusting screw rides on the crank, and when the crank is turned it pushes the screw and trunnion outboard which disengages the clutch. The "cranks" {one for each side} are mounted in 2 bearings each. One in the trans case, and one in a plate or bracket mounted inside the case. The cranks are basically a shaft with an arm coming off the side that has 2 holes in it for the rod to the lever, and the rod to the booster mechanism. There is also an eccentric on the shaft that the adjusting screw rides against. I can't see them real well, and the pics in my book show the part in a assembly, kind of hard to get a clear picture of what they look like alone. When I pull the steering clutch lever the crank turns almost right away, but it doesn't start pushing the adjusting bolt right away. The adjusting bolt is touching the crank. If I tighten it any more it will just start to disengage the clutch. I think the eccentric is really worn. If my last description wasn't clear I'm sure this one is worse. I'll really try to get those pics posted.
Thanks again, Frank

Sorry to disappoint you Frank but apparently there's a difference between the J and U models in the cranks. I went out and took a good look to make sure. The J model doesn't have booster springs and there's no way to hook the U model springs to the J model crank, so that idea is out. Sorry to have gotten your hopes up.

Depending on the serial number of your Cat, the parts you need are crank 9B1460 (fits all from s/n 7U 1 and up), shafts 9B1433 (l.h.), 9B1434 (r.h.) and outer race 3B567, roller assembly 3B568 ( these fit s/n 1 to 22139) or outer race 3H8363 and roller assembly 1B3756 (effective with 7U 22140). Unless the cranks themselves are worn badly, you might get away with just replacing the bearings and shafts.

From the look of things, unfortunately you will have to pull the transmission top. While you're in there that far, you might take a good look at the rest of the steering clutch assemblies.

Frank & Grump,

Before you buy the roller bearings and races, price them out at a bearing supplier. I recieved mine from Motion Industries. It was six or eight sets, but in any case if you have any issue other than adjusting the brakes or the clutches, the lid MUST come off. I purchased gaskets from Olson, when you lift the cover you'll be able to check brake wear on the drum thickness of the discs and many other fun opportunities that will occupy your evenings for the next few months, LOL.

CMD