Hi AJ,
Tried your parts reclaim flick link but all I get is the clock running on a blank screen. What's the secret??

OM the link worked for me ok but in case it needed refreshing here it is again
AJ
media.putfile.com/Reclaiming-parts

Thanks AJ,
But no change.....must be connected to the archive function of this BB:rolleyes:

OM -

Check to see if you have Adobe Flash Player installed on your PC. I think you need it to play the video. If you don't have it, you can get it from: www.adobe.com/products/flashplayer/

Jim (jshoots)

Any one got more opinions (better yet, facts) concerning what modern rods and techniques to use for "reclaiming" worn links, rollers, and sprockets?


Thanks.

OM I'v put it on You Tube hope it works for you there.
AJ

Yup, got it there.......thanks AJ,
What a trip..........complete with the old acid honing of cylinder liners;)
Back in the dark days when man hours and lungs were expendable

As far as rebuilding the rails/ links, I seem to recall a welding rod we used in the mines for rebuilding ore crushers called Cro-Mang. As I recall, it matched the plates and rolls and work hardened when the parts were put back in service. They wore at about the same rate as the original parts after rebuilding.

www.nihonweld.com/products.do?action=get...t&catID=7&prodID=208

This isn't exactly the same stuff but it might give some ideas. The only other suggestion I'd have would be to use an E-12018 rod.

A few years back, 'bout 20 or so, some track shops were building up rails. Laid them out in a trench filled with flux and wie welded from end to end. Then a track mounted torch would cut out between the links. They also rebuilt (weld) rollers without disassembling them. Check around, might find a track shop still doing that.

I never had that done but some did and claimed good results. The track shop that I have in mind quit doing it because it got to expensive for materials and labor.

We always used Stoody Dynamang rods for undercarriage buildups but I think that only Stoody Nicromang is available these days. No need to grind smooth as Nicromang will wear itself smooth in no time.

Just a note about how deep the hardening goes on new links...any new links that I have seen with no paint on them the hardening goes deep into the link almost down to the ribs.

I have several pages of files of various opinions on what rod should be used for this process and various techniques, some I'd consider bogus and some correct. In general it is a two step process, usually one or two layers of build up rod followed by one to two layers max of high -manganese.

I'd suggest anyone about to undertake this task do a little "google" search on the subject, particularly Lincoln Welding's "Wearshield" series.

Also might want to keep an eye on the prices. The high manganese stuff is expensive. As a comparison you can buy a D6 sprocket ring for about $200 and new rollers for about $250, new rails about $1,800 per side. To me all that welding is a big waste of time unless replacements are not available.