Hey guys,

Been in the 90's with over 90% humidity and I am stuck in the office all day with A/C so it's quite a shock to get home and try to work on stuff. Decided to kick laziness in the cajones and jump start my project.

On Friday night, I examined the front wheels / tires of the old girl. The right front tire was shredded and unusable (8.25x20). After a bit of heat hammering, got the rim off and it was completely corroded inside (holes). If the tube had been aired up, likely the rim would have exploded (been there, done that). Scary! Anyways it appears to be the type of demountable two piece rim used on grain trucks, it is about 6 inches wide (at the outside of the bead) and 6 clamps hold it on. From my research it appears to be a "Dayton" style truck rim. In any case I have a line on two good, cheap ones to get her rolling. I looked over the left side rim to begin taking it off and found that even though it was aired up, it had fatigued and split across the rim... which likely means if I had hammered on it, it might have let go! Scary part 2. So both rims / tires will be replaced very soon.

Moving on, I decided to tackle the stuck engine. Externally it appeared 1 cylinder was lightly stuck, 2 moderately, and the last heavily. I had used heat and Kroll / PB Blaster / etc the last 4 months with no success so I decided to do something about it. Had the cylinder head off in less than 2 hours The only real holdup is being religious about heating bolts / nuts and "shocking" them with PB Blaster. I've found that patience is key to saving old hardware. In any case, I was right on with my beliefs. I found that there was no way for the penetrant to get down in to the ring lands because a bunch of crud was in the way. I could have hammered / heated / etc for ever. I decided to use a trick I had read on a Yahoo search to help heat things up - fire! I started the Kroll / PB Blaster on fire and it burned for at least a half hour (I put it out every ten minutes so as not to hurt the old iron. Really didn't want to melt the pistons if they were aluminum!). It was very hot but not red hot, so I thought I was doing OK. Once the fluid was gone, I took a razor blade and CAREFULLY scraped away the crud and some of the loose rust from the cylinder walls. I used heat directly in to the crevice between piston and wall (making sure not to overheat) and then used PB Blaster to cool things off. A couple hours later and I lubed down all of the cylinders, wiped them out, and pulled on the fan... it moved! I worked her back and forth and was finally able to do a complete rotation. Goes over pretty smooth! The cylinder walls are not perfect but I am going to hone them for now and they should be good enough. I will probably do this sooner rather than later... it's time to hear it run!

Now for the questions:

1) I pulled the carburator off the "non-factory" intake / exhaust assembly. I am going to try to find factory parts or reproductions (doubt there are any) and if I have to I will build new. I found an ID tag and inscription in the casting:

MARVEL SCHEBLER

TSX-561
65 E

It is a single barrel carburator, the entrance is horizontal and the exit (going to the engine) is vertical. I believe this is what is meant by an "updraft" carburator. Does anyone know anything about this carb? I'm not absolutely sure its factory but it seems to work with the factory linkages. It will need to be rebuild before use but all the linkages and adjustment screws are free.

2) I have the magneto and I know nothing about them. I'm not sure whether it works or not but it hasn't been taken apart. Here's what the tag says:

WICO
Model XB
Spec. XB4013
Ser. 033462

I'd like to rebuild it before putting it on... but don't know much about it. I know a little about distributors and figured it was the same way except I think it generates its own spark instead of transferring spark like a coil / distributor setup.

3) It has dual rear wheels. Not tandems, but like a duallie. I believe that instead of being a "truck" setup it is similar to tractors. It has 3 piece rims with a spacer band on the wheel which functions as a wheel and a counterweight. A ring with bolts around the perimeter holds the whole thing together (see pics). I believe that this is similar to a common tractor wheel. The tire size is 24x9 and O I believe the rim is probably around 24x7. It appears that IH Cub and some other smaller farm tractors used a similar size. Could anyone help me out here?

Thanks and I will have new pics tomorrow of the progress!

Here are the front and rear rims. I believe the fronts are "truck type" 20" and the rears are "tractor type" 24".