Here is the recomended tooth reclaimation proceedure as per the Reclaimation Bulletin No 8, May 14 1951.
It should be remembered that the WW2 rationing was still in force at this time and these bulletins were developed to keep machines operating through the time of shortage of raw materials and parts.
My Father in his Welding Busines (established in 1946) used to do a lot of this type of work for all and sundry including the local Dealer.
No doubt there is now available more suitable Low Hydrogen rods than the above recommended ones.
Hope this helps as it has used bulk memory to post this and I have had to delete some very recent data to upload.

NOTE___ I have shifted the article to the Post -- Undercarriage Reclaiming--Ed B

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Hi edb,
Thanks again for posting this great stuff:D
Yes, I find myself doing the same thing, deleting recent and valuable info which is then lost due to the fact that this "rinky dink" bulleting board does not have an achieve feature other than what resides in our own PC's. This is even worse than the previous BB where you could at least go back and search the old posts and retrieve the information. Makes it extremely important to copy and file the information when you see it or take your chances on getting it from someone else later.

Thanks Ed. .got 'em saved to my puter. I'd seen a couple of sprockets that had been rebuilt but I didn't know precisely how it had been done. If anyone is going to try that now, I'd suggest using an E-11018 or 12018 rod. I found it interesting that they used an E-6013 electrode back then. .might help to explain why the high preheat was required.
Paul

EDB,

Great information, I'd heard about this technique, but wasn't aware of how it was done. Thanks for posting.

David

John
I have a 3304 engine parts book for serial no 78P1 and up if your interested

$15 mailed to your door

"Old wrote:

Makes it extremely important to copy and file the information when you see it or take your chances on getting it from someone else later.

edb & OM,
as a thought maybe post that VERY GOOD info as a separate post? Might be easier to find later for someone when searching.
I found that same or similar info somewhere in the past & saved it, but doing a quick search just now, I couldn't find it.
I saved it, but who knows...."Blackie The Cat" looses things round my house!!
I save lots to my favorites etc, but really should do back-ups in case of crashes.

Be careful ordering sprocket rims, the 951A and 951B used different pitch track to the 951C, 6.91" pitch against 6.75" pitch, earlier mchines did not have a 'hunting tooth' the later ones did.

When we talk about "hunting tooth" what are we talking about in relation to these machines? How do I know if mine has or has not hunting tooth?
Unless I'm mistaken, my D69U doesn't have hunting tooth???

I somewhat know what it means...I think. Like in a rearend or something, each contact tooth doesn't make contact every revolution, but instead makes contact every 2nd, 3rd, or some sequence of revolution?
Maybe I'm not saying it right......

(sometimes I think I know just enough to be dangerous....)

Count the number of teeth,even number of teeth no hunting tooth,uneven number hunting tooth,with an even number of teeth the chain bushes run in the same teeth all the time and as the chain bushes runs in every second tooth it means that the teeth in between go unused,with an uneven number the bushes alternate from the even to the uneven each revolution and all the teeth gets used,look at the clock face and start off at 1 and miss 1,so it goes 1,3,5.7,9,11,1 but if you have an extra tooth it would go 1,3,5,7,9,11,13,2,4, etc,the 951s are few and far between now,I do remember the change in the pitch but the sprocket still had 30 teeth,I cannot recall any with a tooth more or less but dealing with all makes of machines it hard to remember what was on what.
AJ

Sorry to take so long to reply these responses. I'm a surveyor and we had to layout cemetery lots yesterday, with temperatures over 100 degrees. It sure takes the sap out of me. The weather is the same today but, fortunately I'm inside.

OneWelder,
Converting to bolt on segments would definitely make it easier the next time. However, I do not use the loader to make a living and only operate on the weekends. I hope these replacements will last for the time I use the machine.

Old Magnet,
It looks like edb has provided some similar specifications after your post. I checked the parts manual for the machine and there is no "Attachments" section. The last one listed is "Service Equipment and Supplies".

AJ.,
I wondered what you were referring to with the "hunting" tooth until I read your second post. It makes sense. My sprockets are worn on every other valley between the teeth. If the new sprockets wear enough, I guess I'll have to consider jumping a tooth to even things out. I hope that's a long ways off.
Also, you mentioned the radiator. I have noticed when I operate for over 3 hours in this 90 - 100 degree heat, the transmission temperature needle eventually swings over to the red zone on the gauge. I then take a break until things cool down. Is this normal?

edb,
Boy! It sure looks like you've posted everything there is to know about sprocket rim replacement and restoration. I certainly would prefer to have the sprockets removed from the machine so the welding would be easier, as it is shown in the 1951 bulletin. However, I've been told it takes a multiple ton press/puller to remove the rims from the shaft. I believe my welder and I will have to be content with leaving the sprockets on the machine.
I notice on the Weld-On Rims chart there are two 951 columns. I have to assume one pertains to 951A and 951B sprockets. The other must be the 951C sprocket. Do you suppose the most right column with the pitch reference of 6.91 refers to the 951C sprockets? Another question, the parts manual I have lists the number 7K3995 as a replacement sprocket rim. This number is different from both of those on the chart. ???
I'm going to print out the information and bulletins you posted, just in case my computer bits somehow vanish. I'm glad others are finding your information useful also.

catsiver,
I've been talking to Steve at S. Cohn & Sons, St. Louis, Mo. about the replacement rims. He seems very knowledgeable. To avoid having to dismantle the track frame, he has suggested cutting the replacement rim into two pieces. Instead of cutting the rim into halves, he suggested 1/4 and 3/4 or 90 and 270 degrees. That way the 3/4 section will retain the circular shape and be easier to position prior to welding. When I order I will ask about the pitch and the "hunting tooth".

When this repair starts, I'll see if I can take some pictures. Then the next challenge will be to try to post them here.