I have a D2 5U series dozer which after approx. 12000 hours, has lost oil pressure (30 lbs cold drops to 5 to 10 after 30 minutes run time). My plan is to do a complete engine rebuild on the tractor. I put new clutches and brakes in last winter, under carriage is 65%. The tractor otherwise is in great shape. I have the tractor service manual, but need an engine service manual. I have done a number of IH engines without a manual, but it turns into a pain to get back together. Does anyone know where to get one?

Also are there any specifics to look out for? Tractor runs good with a small amount of oil usage, don't want to use in current state until I get oil pressure up. My Dad has owned this tractor since 1968, so I have a solid history with this tractor.

Thanks for any help

Did you check your oil pressure with a real guage??
10 psi oil pressure warm is not all that bad but the 5 psi is marginal.
Be aware that bearings are becoming an availability issue for these engines. Might want to check around your location to see what is available.
The manual you need is the "Servicemen's Reference Book" for the 4 in. bore D311 engine. Form number is FEO30524-02, the 02 being the edition number.
Can sometimes be found on ebay or you can purchase a quality reprint from "Cat
Legendary Literature" services www.cat.com/cda/layout?m=90800&x=7 in the "track layers" section.

Thanks for the info about the manual.
I knew that I had to push out 300+ pear stumps this spring, so I had to get the tractor “tuned up”. The tractor sat for a whole summer, unfortunately out side, which is how the clutches got stuck I replaced the oil pressure gauge when I did the clutches and brakes this past fall, my brother commented it hadn’t worked in a while, he had been using the tractor. I did a complete engine service as well. When I started to push stumps it was in evening, for the first couple of days, and cooler temps. When I started pressure was 35 to 40 psi and fell off to 25 or so. Dad (80 years young) finished them up during the daytime. I asked him how the oil pressure was when I found out he had finished pushing out the stumps (you just can’t a good dozer man down, ran a D6D until he was 70). He commented that it was a little on the low side. I had to level off a dirt pile about 2 weeks after he was done, that was when I found out what a little on the low side was. The tractor is too nice to let go. Dad and now the boys are members of the HCEA and have attended the show 4 of the last 5 years. We have brought Dad’s 1924 Holt 2 ton and pull grader, and always have had alot of fun. I would like to get the D2 ready for next years show in PA if possible. I have talked with SS Tractor, where I have gotten all of the other parts, and they are looking for parts and pricing. At this point it looks like $3500 for a complete engine over haul. Is that in the ball park?

That's kind of an unusually quick fall off rate for your oil pressure.....it's usually a more gradual decline up to a point anyway. May be worth installing a comparison gage (with numbers) and see what you get. The $3,500 although it may sound like a lot is probably in the ball park for a complete shop built engine. The bearings alone could run over one third of that cost. Sounds like you have a piece of family heritage there.

timbo1946,
You might want to look at a few other things in checking your pressure loses before spending $3500.00 bucks. That being, 1) A clogged oil filters, 2) Defective, broken or clogged gauge, 3) Clogged oil screen on the oil pump. 4) leaking connections. 5) Pressure regulating valve worn or stuck restricting the flow of oil. 6) Wore oil pump gears and pressure relief valve, worn or not operating correctly.

Kelly

Thanks for the input! I did a complete engine service this spring, including filters and a good 30 wt oil. Pressure gauge is new (blew out oil line before installed). The clogged screen / pressure regulating valve are possibles. I also thing that a worn pump could be it. I plan on pulling motor, rear seal is leaking, and doing a complete inspection of the lower end, and cylinders before going off the deep end. Rebuild of the oil pump will be done no mater what, as well as a new clutch disk. This is a project for my Dad (80) and I. Brothers and I want to hang onto the 2 for a long time, so a little extra effort is OK.

There really isn,t a rear seal in them but reverse threads on the crank that tends to screw the oil back into the oil pan & the rear main bearing is made to work with this screw area. There is cord driven in each side of the cap between it & the block & the cap has a half moon groove machined up each side of the cap where the cord goes. You install this after the cap & bearing are installed & torqued down.When you disassemble the rear cap look at that rear area of the shell & if the crank has been riding on that area then you know why it,s leaking. Also you will have to mike the crank for wear too & go from there. 2.750" is the spec. for a std. main brg. crank.

Hi timbo1946,
something simple to look at, before going to drastic measures, for the rear main leakage issue, is to check for blockage and thourougly clean the engine breather. If it is blocked the poor old screw type rear main seal may not keep up with blowby pushing the oil through.Cheers,
Eddie B.

I didn't know that IH knew how to build an engine..

I heard they got confused when they copied someone else and all their diesels had extra valves and a carburetor.

I need to go look at an IH crawler that a fellow near here has. He says it's a pretty tidy tractor with hydraulic control dozer 5tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrtrtrtrtrtrtr (kitten on the keyboard)

He doesn't know how or hasn't got the gasoline starting part working, just uses ether in the diesel and starts it that way. I haven't ever seen one, much less cranked one, so I wouldn't be much help. He says it has a waterpump seal leak and after all I heard about them cracking heads, I haven't rushed over to check it out.

yet.