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D4-7U steering clutch help with a story to boot

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17 years 4 months ago #7900 by Catmandu
The questions are at the bottom.

It must be the season for steering clutches. I've had to take mine apart since the clutch was engaged and wouldn't release. Oh now that is fun especially when you don't have a brakes on the same side, so I couldn't brake to turn right and there was no power to the drive to turn left.:mad:

Well I hobbled back to the shop by building up speed and slamming the good brake to turn one direction only. After tear down I found many interesting things:

1. Dirt was crammed up to the bottom of the clutch. This didn’t allow the cavity to breathe causing a multitude of problems.::confused:

2. The lack of air cause a humidity issue which froze the adjusting nut on the brake, this caused the adjusting nut extension to brake off at the nut. (No Brakes)::eek:

3. The humidity caused the roller bearings, that pivot on the shaft for the clutch arms, to freeze in place so tight that I couldn’t move the arms to take them off. Could this be why my clutch wasn’t releasing to engage the final, hmmmm. Had to heat the arms up and pound the arms off of the bearing assembly.:mad:

4. Now it was time to remove the rivet that hold the shafts in place. Oh this should be easy the book said the shafts slide to THE REAR???:eek: What do I do with the winch…Yes its always easier in black and white. After a lot of messing with the winch bolts, yes there are 8 not 6 like it appeared, we were ready to “slide the shafts out the rear” like the book said. I think this is the case if you don’t have rust holding everything near and dear. More heat to the case and with the help of the excavator to pull on the eye that was rigged to the threaded end of the shaft we managed to pull the whole tractor back, chalk the sprockets and try again. With much consternation the shafts slooowly slid out beating the roller bearings as we went. The book says the bearings should be replaced if worn, It doesn’t say they should be replaced if frozen SOLID so I guess I can keep using them hmmm.

5. Now came time to remove the bearing cage caps and lift the assembly out, after finding out that the 6” strap I was using wouldn’t let the bevel gear turn we manually pried the assembly up and out and then lifted it . That is when I found the hose for greasing the bearing was ripped out of the banjo fittings, I have yet to see that in the book :mad:

Ok, enough of the drama, my questions are:

A. Who do I get banjo fittings with the hose attached from?
B. Are the roller bearings an after market item and has anyone devised a way to lube them?
C. How about secondary breathers on top of the inspection plate?
D. Never-seize will solve the adjustment nut issue.
E. The shafts have some pitting will this be an issue?
F. And finally, gaskets, where do I get gaskets, the big one for the winch to tractor, the big one for the transmission/steering clutch cover, the bevel gear cover seal, along with smaller ones that if need be I could make.

Thanks for your time and hopefully help

CMD

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17 years 4 months ago #7903 by Old Magnet
Sounds like your having a grand old time:D :D
1. Try Cat for the banjo fittings and lines.
2. The Cat # 3B570 bearing is a Bower/BCA # J401652. Provision for lube should already exist either through oil cup and funnel supply to the bearing or by grease line.
3. More breathers means more rain/condensation
4. Depends on how bad the shaft pitting is. Not good at bearing race and these shafts have been know to break on occasion
5. The cover just has a cork seal around the transmission section, and I'm pretty sure you can still get all the gaskets from Cat except for the winch mount which you will have to cut yourself from bulk gasket material.

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17 years 4 months ago #7905 by Catmandu
OM,

Thanks for your advice, as for the lubrication on the roller bearing 3B570, maybe I'm smokin' my socks but I don't see any grease point and hose and there certainly isn't any oil cup I only have one and that is for the transmission clutch.

Are the shafts just carbon steel that i could turn and make new ones?

Are there any other avenues for the gaskets? I'm sure if I go to cat I'll lose all equity that I have in my house.

As for the "grand old time" I forgot to mention we are experiencing the wettest July on record and oh ya I couldn't get the kitty in the shop. Thank the Lord for tarps and .....portable gazebos "borrowed" from my wife....

'Honey have you seen the Gazebo? We've got company coming and I can't find it....'

OOPS

Later

CMD

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17 years 4 months ago #7911 by Old Magnet
It seems you are missing the lube parts....do you have a parts manual?

Actually Cat isn't that bad on gaskets and common competitive bearings.
Don't see why you couldn't make your own shafts. Either carbon steel (1045 I believe) or I commonly use drill rod and heat treat. You need to get something up in to at least the Rockwell "C" scale 35+ for bearing races if you expect to get life. Don't know about your local Cat dealer but Quinn Caterpillar here is very good about getting drawings of obsolete/discontinued parts......although they still might be an active part number.

There's a penalty for commandeering the wife's gazebo:D :D you'll find out what it is :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

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17 years 4 months ago #7922 by Old Magnet
On the cross shaft bearing lube......must of had a brain lapse:rolleyes: ....there is no provision for lube, got it mixed up with the thrust bearing lube feature.
Likewise there is no provision for lube to the 8 trunnion bearings either. They survive (don't) on what is packed into the bearing on assembly. You should check these also. The upper four could probably be set up for lube by putting zerks in the main access cover and the two small rear covers but there is no access to the bottom four.

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