Just wanted to do a final follow up. It turned out to be a break adjustment. Thanks to the pix of the instructions posted I was able to adjust the clutch and brake. Though I believe the clutch is at its end point but still working.

Thanks again to all.

Mike

I was told that the lock plate wasn't really neccessary, but the clamp bolt MUST be kept tight for the adjustment to not move around. It does look like the clutch is at the end of it's life, judging by the adjusting gizmo. Seems that the brake isn't too bad. Be sure to oil that cable, but don't put a bunch of oil inside the cable drum, or your brake won't hold again.... (don't ask me how I know) The clutch disks are readily available, as are all the seals, so even if you have to rebuild the thing, you can still get parts. And if you don't run it until it doesn't wrok anymore, you can re-use the plaina metal disks in the clutch.....

Rodney

After spending most of Saturday getting the beast started (hasnt fired up in two summers.) The brake successfully held. I had to replace the adjusting "eye" bolt.

In the past I could let the blade down at different speeds depending on how fast I pulled the blade control lever. Now it just drops. I'm assuming I need to loosen the brake adjust a little at a time until allows a slower drop. Unlike the clutch adjustment theres no mark to lign up. Am I correct?

Thanks

Next: Adjusting clutch (dry) brake. I'll be wallering on the ground in order to disconnect the yoke so I can adjust it. Big fun

Yes, unlike the clutch the brake is a "fiddle with it" thing.
You can adjust the yoke from above if you remove the floor plate and have long arms:)

I don't think so... I would think that if you would loosen the brake on the CCU, then you'd be back to where you started. It should take just a slight pressure on the handle to make the blade go down, and it should stop immediately upon release. You also have to be sure that AFTER you have the brake adjusted properly (you might also have a spring problem, maybe not enough tension?) to make sure that the clutch adjustment is correct.... I think it's like 1.5 inches up front.... I scribed a couple lines with permanent marker, ameks it easier for me to see if it's right or not....

This clutch brake..... and wallering on the ground..... you mean the engine clutch? I've never seen any procedure for adjusting that gizmo....

Rodney

Pretty sure he's talking about the "transmission brake" (dry), mounted to the clutch housing.

Feathering of the ccu is a clutch thing, hold is the brake.

The lock plate is there for your safety.

Yeah...the transmission brake attached to the engine clutch assembly. I saw that its reachable through the removed floor plate. But my arms arent that long and I know I'll get a cramp somewhere trying. So its on my back on the ground...

Thanks for the help

Bama---

Glad to see a "neighbor" from Mississippi posting. Looks like you're getting some pretty good coaching on your problem.

I won't be of much help----but I'm up in the Delta just South of Greenville. CCJersey is located in Alabama just East of Demopolis. Where are you located?

Lots of good help both here and over on the other CAT board (ACME)----and you will see alot of the same people on both boards. Good luck!!!

Delta Dirt

Hey Delta Dirt,
Thanks for the welcome! Yep got good advice and pictures to go with it (pics always a good thing.) I like your signature "and other scrap iron". I have a 52 and 55 WD45 and a D69U. My wife often looks at my D6 and says "I cant believe that thing even runs". That just makes me want to fire her up (the D6 that is.) May see you at a show some day, any Cat shows ever happen down south?

Almost forgot, I live in a little town called Lewisburg off Hwy 305 south of Olive Branch.

Mike