Seems you are dealing with two issues here. If the clutch "toggle" mechanism is working right you should get the "snap" action whether the actual clutch is releasing/engaging or not.

The other issue is as mentioned, appears clutch discs are stuck. Having a housing full of water would certainly create the conditions for this to occur. If you can't break it loose by operating the unit then there is no choice but "going in".

How did the adjustment checks work out?

All very interesting to say the least. Daniel, What did you find when you drained and changed the oil….any friction disc parts in the oil or suction bell, or in the bottom of the clutch housing? If not this might eliminate the theory of the broken friction disc…but not entirely. That being said, you may find that after setting with water in the housing for some time that has been mentioned above, one may want to look at the engaging mechanism. When the clutch is disengaged, the sliding collar moves back and the collar rollers momentarily force the link assembly rollers (on the adjusting ring) slightly forward toward a position of greater clutch engagement. Then the collar rollers pass over center and become free of the rollers on the link assemblies (in the adjusting ring) . Four coil springs in the adjusting bracket move the pressure plate to a disengaged position. Anyone of these movements could be rusted up and causing your trouble, as well as being wore to the point they don’t function right.
Kelly

The problem is clearer now but how the water got in needs addressing as you won't want it filling up again,was the filler left open or the stick left out,as sugested by OM I think you should try to break it loose,if that is not possible and you know the adjustment is not an issue you will have to remove the unit as there is very little can be done with it in situ,it is unlikely that one of the friction disc has broken while it stood so rust is more likely,the clutch consists of two friction discs and one driving disc,as the friction discs are bronze and the flywheel,driving disc and pressure plate are metal it will be unlikely that rust could be an issue so that leaves the pilot bearing,if that bearing has jammed up the effect would be like direct drive from the crankshaft into the gearbox and that means the unit will have to be removed,but try to break it loose first.
Good luck
AJ

AJ,
I would agree, although I have a feeling the rust candidate would be the main shaft splines.

My memory could well be failing me and I have not seen a 933 since the mid seventies but I seem to remember that the splined output shaft fitted into a gear followed by the pilot bearing and then a snap ring to hold everything in place, that gear is held in the one place on the shaft, the outer teeth of that gear/hub carried the two friction plates, when the clutch is disengaged the flywheel, intermediate plate and pressure plate are rotating at engine speed, the two friction plates, the gear and the splined output shaft remain static, engaging the clutch causes the pressure plate to move towards the flywheel and grips the friction plates which in turn make the gear they sit on rotate and that gear turns the output shaft, here is where my memory is letting me down, I cannot remember if the friction plate has a steel centre with the friction material riveted to either side, or are they all one piece like a steering clutch disc, I had a lot of 933 clutches out because back in the early sixties we were converting any machines we were selling to direct start and at that time there the helix pinion was not available so the ring gears had to be changed, it was quicker to pull the clutch than the engine to get the flywheel off, to pull the clutch of a 933 is not the hardest job to do and once the bolts a loosened a couple of turns they come out easy, it is important to take out the drain plug and leave it out because the magnetic pickup on it sticks up behind the clutch housing flange and will not allow it come off the dowels.
Good luck
AJ

Hi AJ,
I'd say your memory is working pretty good and yes the friction segments are riveted to the steel plates. It's the splines on the main shaft hub & driven disc that I was referring to.......had to look again myself:rolleyes:
Attached is page on the 42A clutch, not sure how clear it will turn out but here goes......

Thanks OM the picture is fine,its very hard to diagnose these type problems when the history is unknown,it could turn out that someone dropped a wrench in or that it was put together wrong so one guess is about as good as the other,the gearbox on them machines were a right SOB esp if the shafts twisted and the gears would not slide off,just as well I was forty years younger when they were about,crude old workhorse with no thought for the guy that had to drive them and less for the repair man.
AJ

Thanks Guys For All The Insite To The Workings Of This Particular Clutch I Am A Lot More Formilliar With My Old Cat Pv15 And 22 .after Your Explanitation's I Soaked The Clutch With Pb Blaster Rust Buster Jacked Up The Machine And After A Little Time Using The Steering Cluth Brakes It Broke Loose And Works Fine. The Right Steering Clutch Was Also Stuck When I First Got The Machine But As I Said Earlier There Was No Shift,steering And Clutch Levers And The Covers Were Just Laying In Place No Bolts Hence The Water ?. Any Thing Previous To Me Obtaining Her Is A Mystery But All Looks Good So Far Again Thanks To All You Guys And Expecillay Acmoc Dan

Hey, that's good news:D Glade you were able to work through it before "ripping it to bits"