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What is the matter with my govenor?

What is the matter with my govenor?

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D4guy
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Hi all,

What's the matter with my governor?

I am from Wisconsin but I have another governor to worry about. My D4 had not been run for about 20 years and after a complete overhaul we started it up. All was well and we were all grins. I took it for a little spin and was relieved to find the steering clutches were not stuck and the brakes worked just fine. We stopped it by stalling the engine in high gear. We restarted it a couple times before putting it back in the shop, this time, shutting it down with the throttle against what seemed to be a stop detent. Yesterday I went to start it again but it did not fire once. No smoke at all---even after re-bleeding the fuel system. Something seems to have slipped in the governor mechanism. With the pump side cover off I could see that the rack would move listlessly only a little bit so I removed the end cap for the photo.

In the photo, Note One, the arrow points to the high speed stop with the lever set to high speed. The control lever stop does not come close to the adjusting screw. How can that be?

In Note Two you can see two and a half un-occupied spring grooves. Should the spring be turned up into these? There seems no possibility the spring could have slipped down or unscrewed two turns, yet the grooves seem shiny as if they had had the spring in them. There is no spring tension on the fly-ball assembly. The weights just hang loose.

Note Three indicates a flat shim stop for the fly-ball yoke. The stop rod does not approach the shim stack although I may not have given the yoke enough hand force. I don't think this is part of the problem.

Is the whole problem just that the control lever shaft has simply slipped and tuned in the control lever? Are the shiny spring grooves just a red herring just to confuse me more?

Thanks a lot.

D4guy

[attachment=14505]D4 Governor.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
1955 D4 Traxcavator, 1926 Model T Roadster, 1930 Model A Tudor, 1940 Diamond T 201, 1954 JD 40 dozer
www.mervbergman.net
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Sat, Sep 8, 2012 12:33 AM
Old Magnet
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I'd say something has happened or someone has been messing with the governor spring and who knows what else.

About the only way out is to get another spring (same part number) from
another governor or exchange a complete governor assembly. Calibration information for the springs has never been available as far as I know.

Here is a picture for comparison:
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Sat, Sep 8, 2012 3:34 AM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I'd say something has happened or someone has been messing with the governor spring and who knows what else.

About the only way out is to get another spring (same part number) from
another governor or exchange a complete governor assembly. Calibration information for the springs has never been available as far as I know.

Here is a picture for comparison:
Hi Team,
seeing your machine ran fine previously it is not likely to be a problem with the position of the Gov. Spring on the base part. It is normal for the spring to not be screwed fully up onto the base---the Factory adjusts the spring position and locks it in place from what I recall when working on this style of Gov. at The Dealer.

I feel you have slack/lost motion in the linkage from the handle at the air cleaner down to the the actual Gov. control shaft.
I have found you need to give the operators handle a good shove to get past the Shut Off detent to stop the engine and again a good pull to get back past the detent to the Run position. There is a fair amount of free travel between the Shut off /Low Idle detent and the Full shut off position and back again to get past the detent to the Low Idle---Run position.
Maybe operate the Gov via the small handle at the Gov. itself and see what happens.
Your pix appear to show the Gov. and inner workings in the Shutoff positon.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Sep 8, 2012 8:03 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
seeing your machine ran fine previously it is not likely to be a problem with the position of the Gov. Spring on the base part. It is normal for the spring to not be screwed fully up onto the base---the Factory adjusts the spring position and locks it in place from what I recall when working on this style of Gov. at The Dealer.

I feel you have slack/lost motion in the linkage from the handle at the air cleaner down to the the actual Gov. control shaft.
I have found you need to give the operators handle a good shove to get past the Shut Off detent to stop the engine and again a good pull to get back past the detent to the Run position. There is a fair amount of free travel between the Shut off /Low Idle detent and the Full shut off position and back again to get past the detent to the Low Idle---Run position.
Maybe operate the Gov via the small handle at the Gov. itself and see what happens.
Your pix appear to show the Gov. and inner workings in the Shutoff positon.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Thats a different spring in the second photo. They did use different springs on the later tractors with increased hp. Notice the length of the bolt compared to the other one.
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Sun, Sep 9, 2012 3:47 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Thats a different spring in the second photo. They did use different springs on the later tractors with increased hp. Notice the length of the bolt compared to the other one.
The governor shown is a pre-engine balancer model about 1951.
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Sun, Sep 9, 2012 3:54 AM
D4guy
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The governor shown is a pre-engine balancer model about 1951.
Is my face red. The problem was my ignorance. It turns out that the throttle has a LOT of movement beyond the shut-off detent. This confused me into thinking the throttle was at fast idle when it was only advanced to the back side of the stop detent. I had not given it enough oomph to get it past the idle stop to give it some fuel. It starts and runs just fine again. I wish you could hear it. Thanks a lot for your attention.
1955 D4 Traxcavator, 1926 Model T Roadster, 1930 Model A Tudor, 1940 Diamond T 201, 1954 JD 40 dozer
www.mervbergman.net
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Sun, Sep 9, 2012 6:34 AM
PaulA
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Reply to D4guy:
Is my face red. The problem was my ignorance. It turns out that the throttle has a LOT of movement beyond the shut-off detent. This confused me into thinking the throttle was at fast idle when it was only advanced to the back side of the stop detent. I had not given it enough oomph to get it past the idle stop to give it some fuel. It starts and runs just fine again. I wish you could hear it. Thanks a lot for your attention.
Don't feel too bad. I went round and round on the same issue a couple years back. After scratching my head for days (electric start, when the battery quit, I quit), I finally gave the throttle a good hard yank and it started right up.
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Sun, Sep 9, 2012 10:39 AM
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