setting valves on #1330 D7 17a

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Many Thanks, I got the valves set and it runs, hood is back on, belly pans on, roller frame guards on, Yes the 25 ccu works although the cable hasn't been strung yet. Thanks again, Lex

17a had glow plugs and electric start from past owner...I rebuilt starting engine from another tractor and install it without removing the glow plugs from the main engine, but every thing else....
Moved tractor out of shop yesterday and was letting it warm up when it starting popping and banging. I shut it off and then turned it over with the starting engine.
I found a hollow glow plug letting air out of it. I took it out and 2 others out to replace (just to plug the holes). The third broke off right at the retainer. I am looking at the manual and know I need to get some tools and seals to remove the flange so I can drill the plug out of the retainer.
1. will the length of the broke glow plug stuck in the retainer prevent it from being removed?
2. if so what can I to get it out?
3. I don't mind paying for the tools, but is there any home made tools people have used in the past?
4. rather than replacing the glow plugs that are not needed has any one installed bolts in there place? Thanks, Lex

Good luck drilling them out. I'd count on replacing with one piece pre-chambers, with or without glow plugs.
Cat and aftermarket sells a correct glow plug plug that actually seals at the tapered seat not just at the threads. Part #7L2123.

Recently bought a prechamber from Regal for $27.00 for my D318. I plugged the glow plug hole with 2 set screws from the local hardware store, one on top of the other and lock tight.

Old Magnet and OldBeek thanks for the replys. I just picked my removal kit out of the drop box and will try to get the chamber out tomorrow morning--I read a parts number of 2p484 so it looks like I have the one piece already. At $25 to $35 apiece I can afford to get a new one rather than fighting the old one. I do have a question, 2 head nuts and washers look to be in the way for removal of the pre combustion chamber. Do I need to remove these or not? Thanks Lex

I took the pre combustion chambers out and cleaned up the sealing surfaces today and yes I had to take out 2 head nuts and washers per chamber. On number one cylinder I see the bottom sealing surface is half gone and the chamber shows signs of erosion also. It looks to me I should be able to get some one to come to the site and resurface this seat. Am I thinking right? Thanks, Lex

I have pushed about 7 acres of trees so far between the rain,snow, etc. The machine has held together well, but I have had problems with the #25 CCU staying in adjustment. I believe taking the best discs from a pile and putting them together caused a seating problem and now that they have wore out rapidly for a time, I believe they have seated in and don't need the adjustment for a time now. I do wish I had put the 3 sheave blocks on instead of the 2 block.
I do have a question about the oil clutch--It says in the book to check adjustment every 500hrs. I have adjusted this thing 3 times now and I wonder why. (The clutch plate is in good shape) I have run a 2U D8 all summer pushing trees and probably adjusted it that much.
The Thread from D9G in Hawaii made me think of the oil ( Per OM --Current engines oils are to slick for clutch applications, that's why to TO-4 spec.) I understand there is a difference between Clutch operation in a direct drive and a power shift but I wanted to get some thoughts as to whether I should change oil. New 30W oil was put in but all I checked for when buying the oil was engine oil. The owners manual calls for
SAE 30 Series 3. Is there a better oil for this clutch than the newer 30w engine oil. Thanks, Lex