removing cab D8k

andyindy

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Transmisson and steering clutch issues and need to pull tranny. Rather than tilt cab back and try to work around it, I think will remove completely. My Buddy has a 5 ton army wrecker that will do the job of setting it off. Seems as though it wouldn't take much more to set it clear off once it was ready to tilt back any way. My manuals don't show anything about tilting back. It looks to be pretty straight forward to remove, linkages, wiring connectors, ect,. Is there anything else to be aware of, hints, ect? Any publications that would show how to remove?
Magnetic strainer had a lot shavings, a 5/8 fine thread nut, 5/8 sheared off bolt head, brass rivets and what looks to be a plastic or maybe neopreme shim or washer. It appears to white or light gray in color. I'll try to attach pics from cell phone.
As always, thanks for any inputs/ advice/ condolences. Andy.

Cat D8K, Cat112 3u grader, Cat 236 skid loader, JD 690 B hoe, Case (Can't Afford Something Else) 1150b, 450 dozer, 450 loader, 580c backhoe x2, 310f loader backhoe, Mack R model tractor w/ Rogers RGN My fleet of mostly working antiques. :crazy😛roviding a great living for the parts guys! :eyebrows:

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Wed, Jan 14, 2015 11:45 AM

tctractors

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andy, whip the cab off then any winch etc off the back, the blade is also best dropped off and placed well away from the parked up tractor, the rear belly guard and saddle plate will need removing also, then its the floor plates, seat and control rods etc next, if you are going to strip out the transmission for rebuilding you also need to pop out the torque convertor, also check the rear engine mountings as on K's they are often rattled free, the transmission lifts via 4 UNC threaded points. your plastic shim is from the gear carrier, the rivets as you already know mean the B/Bands are knackered, the fine thread bolt head could be from the bevel gear (Crown Wheel) oh and while you are in the area its worth popping out the F/Drive top pinions for new seals bearings etc, if you look in the shop talk spot (Caterpillar Sprocket Removal) you will see these games being played.

tctractors

p.s. Opps! the Shop Talk thing is on another Forum about Heavy Equipment Sorry.

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Wed, Jan 14, 2015 2:04 PM

andyindy

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andy, whip the cab off then any winch etc off the back, the blade is also best dropped off and placed well away from the parked up tractor, the rear belly guard and saddle plate will need removing also, then its the floor plates, seat and control rods etc next, if you are going to strip out the transmission for rebuilding you also need to pop out the torque convertor, also check the rear engine mountings as on K's they are often rattled free, the transmission lifts via 4 UNC threaded points. your plastic shim is from the gear carrier, the rivets as you already know mean the B/Bands are knackered, the fine thread bolt head could be from the bevel gear (Crown Wheel) oh and while you are in the area its worth popping out the F/Drive top pinions for new seals bearings etc, if you look in the shop talk spot (Caterpillar Sprocket Removal) you will see these games being played.

tctractors

p.s. Opps! the Shop Talk thing is on another Forum about Heavy Equipment Sorry.

Thanks for the reply TcTractors! Had figured on taking blade off, it has a 4 barrel ripper on it and dropped the shanks out yesterday. Looks to be a big job to take complete ripper off, so I'll try to work around it. Thanks for the heads up on rear engine mounts. The left final over fills itself and that is on the hit list also. If anyone thinks of anything else to check while I'm in there let me know. And if you can think of that other web site with more info on the tear down, would you pl's let me know? You can E mail or pm me if you like.
Thanks again, Andy.

Cat D8K, Cat112 3u grader, Cat 236 skid loader, JD 690 B hoe, Case (Can't Afford Something Else) 1150b, 450 dozer, 450 loader, 580c backhoe x2, 310f loader backhoe, Mack R model tractor w/ Rogers RGN My fleet of mostly working antiques. :crazy😛roviding a great living for the parts guys! :eyebrows:

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Thu, Jan 15, 2015 9:00 AM

old-iron-habit

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Reply to andyindy:

Thanks for the reply TcTractors! Had figured on taking blade off, it has a 4 barrel ripper on it and dropped the shanks out yesterday. Looks to be a big job to take complete ripper off, so I'll try to work around it. Thanks for the heads up on rear engine mounts. The left final over fills itself and that is on the hit list also. If anyone thinks of anything else to check while I'm in there let me know. And if you can think of that other web site with more info on the tear down, would you pl's let me know? You can E mail or pm me if you like.
Thanks again, Andy.

[quote="andyindy"]Thanks for the reply TcTractors! Had figured on taking blade off, it has a 4 barrel ripper on it and dropped the shanks out yesterday. Looks to be a big job to take complete ripper off, so I'll try to work around it. Thanks for the heads up on rear engine mounts. The left final over fills itself and that is on the hit list also. If anyone thinks of anything else to check while I'm in there let me know. And if you can think of that other web site with more info on the tear down, would you pl's let me know? You can E mail or pm me if you like.
Thanks again, Andy.[/quote]

Its on the Heavy Equipment Forum. HEF will work in a search. There is many of TcTractors adventures and a ton of good advice in that post.
Good luck.

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Thu, Jan 15, 2015 9:21 AM

Raeme

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[quote="andyindy"]Thanks for the reply TcTractors! Had figured on taking blade off, it has a 4 barrel ripper on it and dropped the shanks out yesterday. Looks to be a big job to take complete ripper off, so I'll try to work around it. Thanks for the heads up on rear engine mounts. The left final over fills itself and that is on the hit list also. If anyone thinks of anything else to check while I'm in there let me know. And if you can think of that other web site with more info on the tear down, would you pl's let me know? You can E mail or pm me if you like.
Thanks again, Andy.[/quote]

Its on the Heavy Equipment Forum. HEF will work in a search. There is many of TcTractors adventures and a ton of good advice in that post.
Good luck.

Feel for you mate, you've got a job ahead of you. Good luck with it.

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Thu, Jan 15, 2015 4:05 PM

tctractors

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Feel for you mate, you've got a job ahead of you. Good luck with it.

There is a bit of tooling needed to get the cross shaft and top pinions to bits, on the D8H-K series tractors the pinions will come out of the case with the drum flange still on, its advisable to undo the nuts in the case though as they can be tight, then the pinions can be pressed off/on under a standard shop press, the transmission needs no fancy tools to undertake a re-build, the K trans' has 1 more plate on the forward clutch to the D8H trans' the sections are plenty heavy enough to lift by hand but manageable, the gear hubs realy need to be on a hoist, if you strip out the cross shaft use a new shim kit as it saves a load of messing about, the torque needs a socket (Made ?) to undo the nut and to re tighten dont be tempted to use the hammer spanner, there is 2 bushings that need to be checked for the correct fitting in the divider carrier, I always replace them but it is easy to fit them the wrong way so the oil groove is at the wrong angle, other than that the jobs easy and best done by 1 person so nothing gets out of focus.

tctractors

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Sat, Jan 17, 2015 3:44 AM

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