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RD4 4G steering clutch gone?

RD4 4G steering clutch gone?

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FLDrew91
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I was Running my RD4 today and as I was backing up I pulled the right steering clutch and applied the brake to make a turn, the stick went loose and the clutch would not disengage. I pulled the inspection plate off and it looks like there is no spring tension on the clutch arms and trunion. Does this mean the clutch is shot and it’s time to replace it? I checked all the linkage and everything is connected. Thanks fellas.
Current project: 1936 RD4
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Wed, May 1, 2019 5:58 AM
ccjersey
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An adjustment nut may have stripped and slipped or probably more commonly the release thrust bearing has failed. Probably can see the difference between the two sides if you can get someone to pull the levers while you watch.

I believe it is also possible for the bearings on one side of the bevel gear in the middle of the rear end to collapse and allow the whole cross shaft to move toward one side. This would have the effect of reducing free travel on one side and increasing it on the other. However, I expect you would probably see that the free travel returns to normal when the clutches are pulled with the main clutch disengaged.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, May 1, 2019 7:51 AM
FLDrew91
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Reply to ccjersey:
An adjustment nut may have stripped and slipped or probably more commonly the release thrust bearing has failed. Probably can see the difference between the two sides if you can get someone to pull the levers while you watch.

I believe it is also possible for the bearings on one side of the bevel gear in the middle of the rear end to collapse and allow the whole cross shaft to move toward one side. This would have the effect of reducing free travel on one side and increasing it on the other. However, I expect you would probably see that the free travel returns to normal when the clutches are pulled with the main clutch disengaged.
Thanks for the reply. Looks like the only way to properly diagnose the problem and fix it is to pull the transmission cover off, correct? Also, what’s a good source for the drive train parts? I have a feeling once I get into it I’m going to find some parts I need/ want to replace, since I’m already there.
Current project: 1936 RD4
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Wed, May 1, 2019 8:44 PM
ccjersey
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I was down your way last weekend for a family get together!

I'm not the one to ask about repairs to a a D4 of any stripe. I don't own one, never even touched one, much less worked on one!

I would really look closely at the linkage and adjusters, comparing the two sides. I would hate to see you tear into it when you might be able to reach in and replace some pin or nut etc.

That being said, I think you do remove the cover and the bevel gear shaft comes out whole with the clutches somehow. I have seen a picture of that assembly being removed. in comparison, much better than the D2 where the track and final drive have to come off each side, but not as good as the D6 where the individual clutches can be unbolted and lifted out the top.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, May 1, 2019 10:23 PM
rax200
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Reply to ccjersey:
I was down your way last weekend for a family get together!

I'm not the one to ask about repairs to a a D4 of any stripe. I don't own one, never even touched one, much less worked on one!

I would really look closely at the linkage and adjusters, comparing the two sides. I would hate to see you tear into it when you might be able to reach in and replace some pin or nut etc.

That being said, I think you do remove the cover and the bevel gear shaft comes out whole with the clutches somehow. I have seen a picture of that assembly being removed. in comparison, much better than the D2 where the track and final drive have to come off each side, but not as good as the D6 where the individual clutches can be unbolted and lifted out the top.
Hi FLDrew91,
All your bearings, gaskets and seal are avalible from your local Cat dealer, as i hve jusy got all mine for the D4 7J steering clutch replacment. They are the same machine just a few minor changes.
As for the steering clutches John at www.steerngclutch.com has them.

Regards
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Thu, May 2, 2019 3:42 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to ccjersey:
I was down your way last weekend for a family get together!

I'm not the one to ask about repairs to a a D4 of any stripe. I don't own one, never even touched one, much less worked on one!

I would really look closely at the linkage and adjusters, comparing the two sides. I would hate to see you tear into it when you might be able to reach in and replace some pin or nut etc.

That being said, I think you do remove the cover and the bevel gear shaft comes out whole with the clutches somehow. I have seen a picture of that assembly being removed. in comparison, much better than the D2 where the track and final drive have to come off each side, but not as good as the D6 where the individual clutches can be unbolted and lifted out the top.
Most new parts are available if you need to break her open, things like bearings, seals, gaskets and clutch plates, Jim is right as usual, on the D4 the whole cross shaft comes out the top of the tranny with both clutch packs, it's not a super hard job getting into one, setting pinion backlash when you put her back together is obviously important.

Your Cat Dealer will have all the bearings and most gaskets, General Gear in Boise have new steering clutch and brake parts, Florin Tractor are also a great source of parts. There is a Cat Workshop book for the early D4 which includes the RD4, the back end is basically the same till the D4 6U / 7U, just minor upgrades as they went, ask here and someone should have a scan or will send you a reprinted copy, they are essential in my opinion for doing it right, it's not rocket science.
Mike
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Thu, May 2, 2019 3:50 AM
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