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Potato Head's D2 Repair

Potato Head's D2 Repair

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Potato Head
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Okay so here we go. Let me start by saying that I am not a mechanic. I am just a poor old retired cop who has a D2 and needs to fix it. The left steering clutch quit operating so for awhile I just turned right. The equalizer spring then broke so I figured it was time to fix them both. I have read a lot of the threads here and have the books and thought what the heck. Go as far as you can and then call for help. Well as you can tell by the photos I have been moving along at a snails pace but forward progress is being made. Today I ran into a problem. I don't know how to get the track roller frame off around the sprocket. It appears (as you can see by the photos) that the inside of the frame will not clear the sprocket. Do I need to take off the sprocket? Everything that I have read and seen says that I don't and the finial will come off with the sprocket. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also I had the wrong equalizer spring. I need the shaped one not the flat one that I had. Will the shackles and small spring unit work on the spring of the right shape?

Thanks for your help. I will continue to post as progress is made.
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 6:51 AM
gauntjoh
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Chapter Two
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[left][/left]
It's a long time ago, but I seem to remember that when I did my D2, I undid the cap on the track frame pivot shaft and took off the securing nut inside. The final drive complete with sprocket still attached then came off along with the track frame. I do remember that I did not remove the sprocket from the final drive.
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 7:03 AM
timbo1946
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Reply to gauntjoh:
[left][/left]
It's a long time ago, but I seem to remember that when I did my D2, I undid the cap on the track frame pivot shaft and took off the securing nut inside. The final drive complete with sprocket still attached then came off along with the track frame. I do remember that I did not remove the sprocket from the final drive.
I lifted the front of the track frame up, pivoting on the cross bar. Once it is high enough it will clear the sprocket
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 7:23 AM
restore49
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Reply to timbo1946:
I lifted the front of the track frame up, pivoting on the cross bar. Once it is high enough it will clear the sprocket
Wish I knew about lifting enough to clear and slid off with the sprocket on - I used the plasma torch to notch out a semicircle in the back frame rail just enough to clear - not more than 3/4" +- or so. I did not have a stone guard
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 7:52 AM
neil
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Reply to restore49:
Wish I knew about lifting enough to clear and slid off with the sprocket on - I used the plasma torch to notch out a semicircle in the back frame rail just enough to clear - not more than 3/4" +- or so. I did not have a stone guard
You may find that the sprocket is not that tight on the shaft. Undo the two locknuts and the big nut and see if it lightly taps off. If it does, you're golden. That was the case with mine which made it a bit easier to pull the track frame.
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 9:31 AM
neil
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Reply to neil:
You may find that the sprocket is not that tight on the shaft. Undo the two locknuts and the big nut and see if it lightly taps off. If it does, you're golden. That was the case with mine which made it a bit easier to pull the track frame.
And I've just done my left final and steering so it's all fresh in my memory if you have any questions. I replaced all bearings, seals, hardware, gaskets etc. as well as the steering components.
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 9:34 AM
Sasquatch
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Reply to neil:
And I've just done my left final and steering so it's all fresh in my memory if you have any questions. I replaced all bearings, seals, hardware, gaskets etc. as well as the steering components.
It looks like there's been a lot of extra metal added to the back end of the track frame inboard of the sprocket, metal that wasn't originally there when it left the factory. I also see the rock guards look like they have been welded to the frames too. The inside track frame channel should not extend much past the round tube that houses the pivot shaft, only the outer frame channel should extend back as far as both of yours do. I believe that is were your clearance problem came from.

Also, just a friendly piece of advice - don't get too comfortable around those cinder blocks that are holding the Cat up, they are known to fracture and could cause the blocking to shift. I'm not trying to nitpick or be rude, and if they've held the Cat up thus far you are probably good. I just don't think I would crawl under it without solid blocking.
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 9:54 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Sasquatch:
It looks like there's been a lot of extra metal added to the back end of the track frame inboard of the sprocket, metal that wasn't originally there when it left the factory. I also see the rock guards look like they have been welded to the frames too. The inside track frame channel should not extend much past the round tube that houses the pivot shaft, only the outer frame channel should extend back as far as both of yours do. I believe that is were your clearance problem came from.

Also, just a friendly piece of advice - don't get too comfortable around those cinder blocks that are holding the Cat up, they are known to fracture and could cause the blocking to shift. I'm not trying to nitpick or be rude, and if they've held the Cat up thus far you are probably good. I just don't think I would crawl under it without solid blocking.
Is that extra metal added??? or how the 5-roller frame is constructed? That big square piece with gussets on the inside of the track frame looks like that used on the 933 loader which is probably the source for the 5-roller frame on the D2 although the 933 is fixed frame and the D2 is swing frame.

The roller guards shown in the parts book extend even further than what I see in the pictures. Looks like they need to be removed.

As for the spring/s the rebound spring is the same for either the curved main or straight version but the shackle links have a different part number.
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 1:08 PM
8C 361
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Is that extra metal added??? or how the 5-roller frame is constructed? That big square piece with gussets on the inside of the track frame looks like that used on the 933 loader which is probably the source for the 5-roller frame on the D2 although the 933 is fixed frame and the D2 is swing frame.

The roller guards shown in the parts book extend even further than what I see in the pictures. Looks like they need to be removed.

As for the spring/s the rebound spring is the same for either the curved main or straight version but the shackle links have a different part number.
When I did this I removed the caps holding the pivot shaft to the transmission case and jacked the Cat up off the shaft and rolled both track frames and shaft ahead far enough to clear.
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 7:10 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to 8C 361:
When I did this I removed the caps holding the pivot shaft to the transmission case and jacked the Cat up off the shaft and rolled both track frames and shaft ahead far enough to clear.
I think your support system should work ok--the blocks are concrete and not cinder blocks, and you placed them with the holes vertical which is more stronger, Having wood between the machine and the block is also very good as the wood distributes the load more evenly. It may have been better if a wide piece of lumber was placed between them and the ground to help prevent differential settlement in the soil
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 8:00 PM
restore49
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Reply to 8C 361:
When I did this I removed the caps holding the pivot shaft to the transmission case and jacked the Cat up off the shaft and rolled both track frames and shaft ahead far enough to clear.
My curved notching were done on a 933 5 roller frame - no rock guard. Would like to see the jack setup to get the shaft caps to let go - tried wedges and heat with no luck. Looks like 1/2" +- from cut to Tube Bob

[attachment=47920]rail notch.JPG[/attachment][attachment=47919]933 rail notch.JPG[/attachment]
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Mon, Apr 2, 2018 8:03 PM
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