pic's of old d2 hydraulic / blade / tracks

Hi Scott,
take a look in picture seven. That angle brace and it's mate on the other side is what helps prevent side-to-side movement (granted there can be some from worn trunnions where the blade arms attach to the track frame but that contribution would be negligible if the slop wasn't too bad). So check that those braces and pins are not sloppy. If they are, even a little, that blade will move side-to-side. If they're nicely tight, then you can adjust a little by shimming out on either side of that nut that holds the front end of the brace to the back of the blade. I'd also check that the push arms are straight and that the track frames themselves are parallel and true. If your right side track frame toes out, it will be closer to the push arm. Also check that the push arms are the same length trunnion center to blade attachment point. Basically check that everything is square, and account for sloppy pins and you'll know what to do next.

Scott,

You have a #44 hydraulic control on that cat, set up for a D2 of that vintage it would put out 29GPM, the proper hydraulic control for a tool bar would be the #41 hydraulic control at 13GPM, that is why the blade is fast.
The lever on top of the diverter block is to switch the flow to the other set of ports.

Hi Scott,

It's nice to her from you.

I think also re the lift speed could be the dia of your cyls. I think for those low pressure systems the cylinders were larger. Yours look like 4in am I right?

I would not think it is a prob so long as the pressure is enough to work the blade and with your successful dozing that looks it looks like it's OK.

Keep us posted.

yes, I will check the square and all at some point.
yes the cylinders are 4 by 8 or 10 or so, same as I took off there.

pressure is good, volumes is huge. it says 39 gpm, but maybe its a 2 as in 29.

so do I have the wrong hydraulic valve on there? how can I slow the volumes down?
its tough to operate, but doable once you know the machine.
Could put a volume restrictor in (did that on the 440), but would rather have the right hydraulic pool valve / diverter valve ?
what manual do I need for this hydraulic system ? I have like 8 manuals and its not in there.

took a while to get that little patch of land flat, but its way better than it was.
nice little machine. any bigger and I couldn't work on it.

The other thing is 1st gear is way to fast, I'm only running it at 1/2 throttle or less, and its tough when the blade hits a big root, wants to stall the machine. I'm Sure that wouldn't happen at full throttle but to fast
I like to watch what I'm doing when pushing, its tough going that fast. plus I don't want to beat the machine to bad.

pony starts on the 3rd pull now, runs great, but still needs some work. damn carb...lol. wait on my rebuilt electric starters
I bought another last week. see what happens.

left side of the tracks or chains are hitting something, notice rubbing on the pins (out side of chain). one side only. the tracks are way loose. need to tightened, but cant do that until my back gets better. lol.
I can say for sure if your not watching what your doing, this machine will buck you clean onto the engine. ..lol

thanks everyone, for the help.

I like the machine the other one is about done, the 440icd, it lasted 10 years with lots of work, but now needs extensive work, I'm not inclined to pull finals again, big job.
so the cat gets resurrected for now

The rollers need replacing as well on the d-2, been watching how that guy is welding up and re-machining, would take a long time. but may have to do,
id like new rollers and the works, but not sure there available. plus the cost. wondering how that d3 conversion would work. has anyone ever done that? big bucks I bet.

The left final is full of water, been sitting with cover open for years, been steering with the right side only. need to drain it some how.
engine runs like a top tho. many issues but fun to drive.

id like to clear the 7 acres, with this machine, gona have to find a brush rake, but hate to think what that will do to the old cat.

thanks guys and nice to get some how to's and answers from ya all.

thx Scott

Scott, the valve does not control volume flow-rate. That comes from the pump. Although these are the same cyls that were on it they are probably still not the ones that would have been used with the old low pressure/high volume pump.

I suppose you could put on some type of bypass restriction but that would heat the oil as the energy has to go somewhere.

It sounds like you are able to handle the blade with this setup so I would just keep what you have.

The reasons for the high speed on the blade are twofold, first the GPM is two to three times what it should be, and second the ram travel to lift the tool bar blade is much shorter than on a 2A or 2S, multiplying the lift speed again. The tool bar blade set up is designed for all around lighter duty than the 2A or 2S blades, lighter build and less up and down force.
A tool bar blade is really not designed for angular force, like you get when digging stumps with the corner bit.

what's your thoughts on the 1st gear being to fast? (I don't like it)
they must have put different transmissions groups in these? maybe not.
I'm not going to split it apart anytime soon tho, just wondering if they made slower 1st gear trani's

also the lower rollers?
can you still buy new, from what I've searched on the site, its a big no.
I did see the d-3 chain and roller post, but way pricy, anyone ever done that?

by the time I get done with this thing, I would have been able to buy that d2 on flea bay for 8 grand, sure is nice tho. looks brand new
big chunk of change at one time tho.
I like the little at a time thing much better.

thx scott

I have a D2 5U and converted it to D3 rollers, chains and plates simply because the chains and rollers are no longer availab le in Aus and plates were quoted at 40 Adollars each for second hand ones!

You wil be able to get the parts much cheaper in the US than in Australia where we unfortunately get ripped on price and freight. I got the plates (new) very cheap so can't advise on the cost for new but the rollers were about 200 US each and the chains were about 1200US each and I had to buy 36 links so have some spare now.

The process of fitting them has been covered on ACMOC but basically consists of raising the rollers about 2 inches off the frame to align with the original roller height. I also moved the rear most roller forward a bit to ensure adequate clearance to the sprocket as the D3 roller are not as scalloped.

The conversion has worked out quite well...but yes it was costly as everything is with these machines. I also had to wait 6 months for the chains to arrive from OS (probably China but no one would actually say where they came from😊)

In terms of gearing I find the D2 1st gear much better than the D4 7U I had which was far to fast. So I'm not sure why yours is so high unless it was specified that way.

The reasons for the high speed on the blade are twofold, first the GPM is two to three times what it should be, and second the ram travel to lift the tool bar blade is much shorter than on a 2A or 2S, multiplying the lift speed again. The tool bar blade set up is designed for all around lighter duty than the 2A or 2S blades, lighter build and less up and down force.
A tool bar blade is really not designed for angular force, like you get when digging stumps with the corner bit.