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My new find!

My new find!

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Cat boy
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Hey guys been a minute, after my last fails attempt at finding a decent dozer I do believe iv found one😆
She is a one owner, bought new in 52 or 53, can't really remember. The price is only 6k. The only thing that worries me is it has a dry clutch but other than that it is a sound machine, besides the pony issues. Here's some pics
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Sat, Jul 13, 2013 12:22 PM
bob
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Looks like a decent tractor, they run forever.
Later Bob
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Sat, Jul 13, 2013 7:42 PM
ccjersey
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Looks like the tracks and undercarriage are at the point of soon needing some attention. I can see that the ends of the pin bosses are just beginning to get a flat shelf under the bottom from the track roller flanges. Have the pins and bushings been turned already? Any track shops around that can do that? Where is the front idler in relation to the end of the track frame. There is a max spec on the distance between the guide on the adjuster screw and the back of the front idler support. Either way, if it's very far out, you can have problems because of that even if you can still keep the track tight enough.

What are your plans for it? That one will run quite a while on those tracks just like they are as long as you can keep them tensioned properly.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Jul 13, 2013 8:22 PM
drujinin
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Reply to ccjersey:
Looks like the tracks and undercarriage are at the point of soon needing some attention. I can see that the ends of the pin bosses are just beginning to get a flat shelf under the bottom from the track roller flanges. Have the pins and bushings been turned already? Any track shops around that can do that? Where is the front idler in relation to the end of the track frame. There is a max spec on the distance between the guide on the adjuster screw and the back of the front idler support. Either way, if it's very far out, you can have problems because of that even if you can still keep the track tight enough.

What are your plans for it? That one will run quite a while on those tracks just like they are as long as you can keep them tensioned properly.
I agree with cc as my initial glance I thought it looked OK except I did notice the welded grousers.
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Sun, Jul 14, 2013 7:03 PM
cojhl2
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Reply to drujinin:
I agree with cc as my initial glance I thought it looked OK except I did notice the welded grousers.
Did it start? Looks like it has sealed rollers, that's an upgrade from original.

We ran these thing thousands of hours and we didn't have no stinkin oil clutch!!!😊
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Sun, Jul 14, 2013 8:13 PM
chriscokid
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Reply to cojhl2:
Did it start? Looks like it has sealed rollers, that's an upgrade from original.

We ran these thing thousands of hours and we didn't have no stinkin oil clutch!!!😊
I like the custom orchard fenders..LOL!
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Sun, Jul 14, 2013 8:50 PM
catsilver
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Reply to chriscokid:
I like the custom orchard fenders..LOL!
The tracks, sprockets and top rollers look pretty good but as already said, there looks to be contact between the roller flanges and track pin bosses, I reckon the bottom rollers are just about worn out, if the pins and bushes have not been turned, it could be worthwhile having them done to save wearing the sprockets right out. the rest of the machine looks very tidy.
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Mon, Jul 15, 2013 7:32 PM
Cat boy
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Reply to catsilver:
The tracks, sprockets and top rollers look pretty good but as already said, there looks to be contact between the roller flanges and track pin bosses, I reckon the bottom rollers are just about worn out, if the pins and bushes have not been turned, it could be worthwhile having them done to save wearing the sprockets right out. the rest of the machine looks very tidy.
These guys took good care of her after their daddy died. And I haven't got to check the bottom rollers so I got a price check on them. 120 a roller. So this won't be a instant purchase but I'm the only one they will sell it too, so I'm pretty content with that. Also they say the pony will run but it acts like it wants to seize up? Any takes on that?
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Sat, Jul 20, 2013 10:10 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Cat boy:
These guys took good care of her after their daddy died. And I haven't got to check the bottom rollers so I got a price check on them. 120 a roller. So this won't be a instant purchase but I'm the only one they will sell it too, so I'm pretty content with that. Also they say the pony will run but it acts like it wants to seize up? Any takes on that?
I'm going to say "Lack of Coolant".
There is not an oil pump in the Pony, splash lubrication.
A possibility is, it was run almost dry and scored a bearing?
I would say it is starving for coolant!
On the D2/D4's there is a low spot on the "Coolant In" from the Main Engine to the Pony where they like to plug off with Rust.
Could be the same type of issue, use the "Search" function to look this up.
In the HOPEFUL WORLD of Troubles, this simple solution would e the one I would hope for!
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Sat, Jul 20, 2013 6:24 PM
edb
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Reply to drujinin:
I'm going to say "Lack of Coolant".
There is not an oil pump in the Pony, splash lubrication.
A possibility is, it was run almost dry and scored a bearing?
I would say it is starving for coolant!
On the D2/D4's there is a low spot on the "Coolant In" from the Main Engine to the Pony where they like to plug off with Rust.
Could be the same type of issue, use the "Search" function to look this up.
In the HOPEFUL WORLD of Troubles, this simple solution would e the one I would hope for!
Hi catboy,
could be several things making the pony seem to seize.
First is the carby dirty and/or starving for fuel supply, check the fuel flow to the carb by removing the fuel line at the carb and turning on the pony tank tap.
When the carby leans out it makes the pony run eratic - some choke can help it to recover if the fuel starvation is not too severe.
If the pony is running hot then it may need air bleeding from the water outlet elbow at the top front of the pony via a plug or vent cock located in the elbow. The pony has a water pump so it needs to be in working condition also.
It can also be cooling system blockage by crud as mentioned above.
The bearing problem may also be present-as mentioned above-if the pony has been stopped by turning off the mag switch and not by turning off the fuel and letting the engine stop itself by running out of fuel.
If the fuel is not turned off to stop the pony it leaves stale fuel in the bowl for the next start attempt.
Also the motion of the machine operating jiggles the float and floods the pony with fuel.
This fuel finds its way into the lube oil and dilutes it causing bearing seizure etc.
Suggest change the pony oil before next startup and see what happens--check drained oil for metal particles and dilution.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sun, Jul 21, 2013 8:17 AM
Cat boy
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Reply to edb:
Hi catboy,
could be several things making the pony seem to seize.
First is the carby dirty and/or starving for fuel supply, check the fuel flow to the carb by removing the fuel line at the carb and turning on the pony tank tap.
When the carby leans out it makes the pony run eratic - some choke can help it to recover if the fuel starvation is not too severe.
If the pony is running hot then it may need air bleeding from the water outlet elbow at the top front of the pony via a plug or vent cock located in the elbow. The pony has a water pump so it needs to be in working condition also.
It can also be cooling system blockage by crud as mentioned above.
The bearing problem may also be present-as mentioned above-if the pony has been stopped by turning off the mag switch and not by turning off the fuel and letting the engine stop itself by running out of fuel.
If the fuel is not turned off to stop the pony it leaves stale fuel in the bowl for the next start attempt.
Also the motion of the machine operating jiggles the float and floods the pony with fuel.
This fuel finds its way into the lube oil and dilutes it causing bearing seizure etc.
Suggest change the pony oil before next startup and see what happens--check drained oil for metal particles and dilution.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Wow! Thanks alot guys! Also, how hard would it be to convert this dozer to an electric start? Would I have to get a different bell housing? Or could I just cut a hole out? Also, I have found a new bell housing, flywheel and transmission and wet clutch to convert this dozer to a wet clutch set up. You guys think its really worth converting or just doing it when the dry clutch finally goes?
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Mon, Jul 22, 2013 3:08 AM
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