"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"
instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality
if the bearings are noisy and you have it apart change them. its a real pain in the arse to have to strip it down twice. if you can read the manufacture numbers on the bearings go to your local bearing supply they can match them for you. most of these machines in this era used hyatt or timken bearings where they are actual ball or roller bearings. there was a bearing cross ref table in the tech library.
i suppose you dont have a bench or a vise. a vise with a rotatable head and pipe jaws is very useful. it allows you to clamp odd size and shape objects. the pipe jaws are handy for gripping round objects not just pipe. i suggest getting a dead blow hammer allows a proper hit with out bounce and shock of a normal engineers hammer
Hi,
Just need the s/n of the tractor for the bearing numbers.
Sorry to put a dampener on this It is a big job to replace the bearings in the gearbox, I have done it 3 times on different d4's.
But first drain a bit of out of the gearbox and see if any water/metal comes out?
I can go into this further but a few checks may save you heaps.
Regards
"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"
instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality
the bearings on the pinion shaft wont be that hard to do. since you have it out its worth changing them.
if the bearings are noisy and you have it apart change them. its a real pain in the arse to have to strip it down twice. if you can read the manufacture numbers on the bearings go to your local bearing supply they can match them for you. most of these machines in this era used hyatt or timken bearings where they are actual ball or roller bearings. there was a bearing cross ref table in the tech library.
i suppose you dont have a bench or a vise. a vise with a rotatable head and pipe jaws is very useful. it allows you to clamp odd size and shape objects. the pipe jaws are handy for gripping round objects not just pipe. i suggest getting a dead blow hammer allows a proper hit with out bounce and shock of a normal engineers hammer
Hi,
Just need the s/n of the tractor for the bearing numbers.
Sorry to put a dampener on this It is a big job to replace the bearings in the gearbox, I have done it 3 times on different d4's.
But first drain a bit of out of the gearbox and see if any water/metal comes out?
I can go into this further but a few checks may save you heaps.
Regards
Rich, see my post on page 2 of https://www.acmoc.org/bb/discussion-d72/27433-d4-pony-drive-questions?start=10#223836 where 8H2046 is suggested as an alternate pinion-to-flywheel-housing o-ring for an easier fit. The original 2A36767 is more difficult to reinstall - can be done but you'll use up your year's supply of cuss-words in one day...
Rich, see my post on page 2 of https://www.acmoc.org/bb/discussion-d72/27433-d4-pony-drive-questions?start=10#223836 where 8H2046 is suggested as an alternate pinion-to-flywheel-housing o-ring for an easier fit. The original 2A36767 is more difficult to reinstall - can be done but you'll use up your year's supply of cuss-words in one day...
Anybody know where I might find the start pinion clutch pack. If I look up the friction disk 2A3616 the most I find is at Alibaba. :/
Did you delock the lock nut before try removing the nut from the shaft and if I can help I should have these good used parts for but no more lock nut