grader 212 D311 engine removal help

9T2490 Engine D311 had frozen due to rain water 4 years ago and previous owner filled the cylinders with vinegar and the crankcase with diesel 2 years ago so you can guess the condition of the liners and bearings. I'm trying to pull the engine so I can drive out the pistons and liners. 10 ton press would not budge the pistons. My problem now is the engine wont separate beyond 1-1/4 inch from the transmission. I have some pictures of inside the clutch housing and my lifting slings. Any thoughts would be helpful. [attachment=27471]IMG_0719.jpg[/attachment][attachment=27472]IMG_0720.jpg[/attachment][attachment=27473]IMG_0721.jpg[/attachment][attachment=27474]IMG_0722.jpg[/attachment][attachment=27475]IMG_0723.jpg[/attachment][attachment=27476]IMG_0724.jpg[/attachment][attachment=27477]IMG_0725.jpg[/attachment]

I haven't removed an engine from a 212 yet but on my Caterpillar No.9 Auto Patrols the live power shaft that attaches to the flywheel passes through the center of the hollow clutch shaft and out the front of the bell housing (beneath the cab), where the driveshaft for the power control box attaches to it. I know that on those models that driveshaft has to be disconnected and also the flange has to be pulled off of the live power shaft for the engine to be removed. The live power shaft will stay connected to the flywheel (cannot be removed until the clutch is unbolted from the flywheel) so care must be taken when removing the engine until that 2' long shaft is out of the hollow clutch shaft and clear from being bound up or bent. Perhaps the 212 is similiar? It might be worth taking a peek under the cab to make sure that's not your hangup (unless you've already taken care of that).

Hi grayrat,
sometimes the splines in the flywheel centre and on the power control box drive shaft wear enough to get a fair step which will stop the shaft disengaging the splines as you slide the engine back.
Same can happen with the adaptor for the clutch plate hub on the gearbox input/clutch shaft--just need to turn the shafts backwards to disengage the wear steps whilst there is no disengaging/pulling load on them.

If you get under the cab and look for the power control box drive shaft the uni-joint flange will likely be hard up against the front cover of the trans. indicating the splines are holding on. There is usually an inch or so between the back of the drive flange and the cover face.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Eddie B.

you were right, the control box shaft was up tight to the clutch housing. I pushed the engine back in place and rocked the shaft back and fourth leaving in clockwise rotation and its still holding it up. I have to go earn a living so ill pick up the fight next week. Thought I would try a pickle fork on the yoke between the clutch housing and the control box shaft yoke. I don't want to heat the shaft and damage the temper. Just want to say thank you. without the input from this forum I would be dead in the water. With your help I've been able to bring back a 1936 RD4 that had trees growing through the undercarriage and the push to take on this 212 basket case.