Got the new D2 in the shop but have a couple questions

Hi guys, we got the new D2 home and in the shop last week but have a few questions. The shift lever is stuck in neutral but all of the other levers ( main clutch, steering clutch levers, and the brake pedals) have travel. That being said I do not know if they are actually working properly or not all I know is that they do move. Also the pony motor I can turn over by hand if I spin the crankshaft pulley in the firewall but the main diesel I can not spin by hand even with the decompression lever on and trying to spin it over just a little with the belt and crank pulley by hand. I have read and read a lot of posts on how to get the diesel freed up and that looks pretty straightforward by removing the head and spraying lube on top of the pistons then let it set for a week or 2 then try a little persuasion with a wood block and a hammer on top of the pistons if need be. My question is if the main clutch is not fully disengaging and making that the reason it will not shift could that also be causing the diesel to seem locked up or would that be completely irrelevant separate problems. Sorry I just have never had a tractor with a locked up diesel so this will be my first rodeo with this and I'm sure I'll have a few other questions along the way. Thanks again for any help or advice.

The shifter on my D2 5U was frozen in neutral from sitting out in the weather with a rotted boot for so many years. I kept spraying penetrating oil (Kroil) in there the first few weekends I worked on it. Finally I started tapping on it with a small dead blow hammer and it freed up. I worked it loose, and once I got the tractor running I flushed the tranny and filled with fresh oil. It’s been working great since. Just ordered a new boot yesterday.

I hope you have good luck getting it going!

D2Cody, there is also an interlock for clutch lever to gear shifter, running or not clutch must be released (free wheel) for the gear shifter to move, it was designed so you could not move gear lever unless you had no drive thru clutch to transmission (can't knock in or out of gear by accident whilst in motion)that is if your interlock is connected.

Hi, D2 Cody.

I'm no 'ex-spurt' on D2s but I think you can still move the gear lever back and forth across the neutral slot with the master clutch engaged.

If you don't want to remove the head unless you HAVE to, you could try removing the injectors and squirting Kroil or something similar into the cylinders that way. I haven't had need to try but some folks say that a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works too.

If you do end up removing the head, you could also try tipping some Pepsi into each cylinder and leaving it for 24 hours. The folks whom I have seen/heard promoting this approach do usually stipulate the 24 hour limit, possibly for the same reason that it cleans up dirty coins soaked in it. (Think what it might be doing to your innards if you drink it.)

Hope this helps.

Just my 0.02.

If you gave the history I don't remember it. Does it roll??? If it rolls check brakes the steering clutches. And that means it is not in gear. Or the clutch has not rusted up to the flywheel. Is there a hydraulic pump on the front?? I believe we have a stuck engine problem solved finding it was the hydraulic pump stuck. So in this case overthink it. Start at the easier, less thing to take apart first things first. Unless you are planning a every bolt out/off restoration, in which case just take it apart. But it is still nice to know what works.

I have a D6 here that had sat and the boot on shifter was gone. I just pored a quart of oil in the top every day for a few days. Then some love with light hammer got it moving. A D6 may have bigger opening. But on a 6 you put a bar in the clutch to help turn things. As well as turning the crank at the front, even if hydraulics must be removed.

Thankyou for all of the replies guys. I will spray some Kroil or PB Blaster around the gear shifter for awhile and check it in a week or so to see if I can get some movement. Ray, this tractor does roll but when we were pulling it into the shop I pressed on the brakes and pulled the steering levers but it did not turn. Since the levers and brakes all do move though maybe it needs adjustments? Also same thing for the main hand clutch, it does move but it does not really have a "snap" to where you can feel it engage and disengage it just moves back and forth without doing anything. There is a number 41 hydraulic system up front also so that could be a very good possibility to look into. I will see about unhooking the crank pulley from the hydraulic pump first I believe and see if that does anything and report back. Thankyou again for the help.

Hi, If you have not done so, procure the manuals so you have some reference and information before you start tearing into things. The Master Clutch has a small inspection cover, remove that and ensure the Clutch is actually functioning. Steering Clutches and Brakes - when machine is rolling, if you pull a friction and stand on brake are you getting any reaction on that track? Try both sides. I suspect if it has been outdoors for any period of time, the steering clutches will be rusted maybe to the point there is no way for them to release (separate). If that is the case, they will have to be replaced. I agree, before pulling the head, try the other easy options. Disconnect the hyd pump. Ensure the master clutch is released and you are not trying to turn the transmission, rear end and tracks. First things to do are the easy ones, check the compartments for fluid levels and WATER! Water is your enemy in the case of machines in the outside world. D2's are notorious for steering clutch issues when left outside for extended periods - rust of the plates swells the clutch pack, compressing the springs to beyond any point of possible release. GOOD LUCK - CTS

and be careful working on steering clutches they have immense spring tension in those springs. especially if rust has swelled the plates.

If the D2 you are referring to is your 5U 15751, then I think it was made after Cat lengthened the tractor so the master clutch could be removed without removing the diesel engine. You should be able to remove the floor plates and the master clutch cover to inspect the transmission lockout linkage. My bet is the lockout linkage is preventing the shifting of gears. If you have other Cats so I'm sure you know that you can't shift gears with the master clutch lever engaged.

From memory, the pony flywheel also needs to be removed to remove the clutch cover. There could be a way of jockeying it out of there but I recall removing my flywheel for access