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Fan belt

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Johnsd2
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I am working on my 1950 d2 5u. The fan belt broke and i can't get the new one on. My tractor has a dozer blade on it and the lower crank shaft runs through the radiator.
My question is do I need to pull radiator and hydrolic pump to change belt. I am at a loss right now. If any one can help. Thsnks....
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 2:59 AM
STEPHEN
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It depends on what pump you have. If you post a pic, then we would be able to give more specific advice.
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 4:29 AM
Johnsd2
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[quote="Johnsd2"]I am working on my 1950 d2 5u. The fan belt broke and i can't get the new one on. My tractor has a dozer blade on it and the lower crank shaft runs through the radiator.
My question is do I need to pull radiator and hydrolic pump to change belt. I am at a loss right now. If any one can help. Thsnks....[/quote]
This is a picture of the crank pully. I took all bolts off front of crank and the center bolt. Should I get bigger pry bar.
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 4:45 AM
neil
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Reply to Johnsd2:
[quote="Johnsd2"]I am working on my 1950 d2 5u. The fan belt broke and i can't get the new one on. My tractor has a dozer blade on it and the lower crank shaft runs through the radiator.
My question is do I need to pull radiator and hydrolic pump to change belt. I am at a loss right now. If any one can help. Thsnks....[/quote]
This is a picture of the crank pully. I took all bolts off front of crank and the center bolt. Should I get bigger pry bar.
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Attachment
I'm not sure if the new belt will clear the plate when slid forward but if it does, there are two diametrically opposed forcing screw holes in the driveshaft plate that fits inside the crank pulley. First remove the locating pin in the side of the driveshaft plate that stops the shaft retracting back into the plate. Clean forcing screw holes up with a 3/8 NC tap then use your plate bolts in there to force the plate out, then slip the belt over the back of the plate / shaft. Reassemble.
If it does not clear, then you'll need to remove the pump to clear the shaft.
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 5:11 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to neil:
I'm not sure if the new belt will clear the plate when slid forward but if it does, there are two diametrically opposed forcing screw holes in the driveshaft plate that fits inside the crank pulley. First remove the locating pin in the side of the driveshaft plate that stops the shaft retracting back into the plate. Clean forcing screw holes up with a 3/8 NC tap then use your plate bolts in there to force the plate out, then slip the belt over the back of the plate / shaft. Reassemble.
If it does not clear, then you'll need to remove the pump to clear the shaft.
[quote="Neil"]I'm not sure if the new belt will clear the plate when slid forward but if it does, there are two diametrically opposed forcing screw holes in the driveshaft plate that fits inside the crank pulley. First remove the locating pin in the side of the driveshaft plate that stops the shaft retracting back into the plate. Clean forcing screw holes up with a 3/8 NC tap then use your plate bolts in there to force the plate out, then slip the belt over the back of the plate / shaft. Reassemble.
If it does not clear, then you'll need to remove the pump to clear the shaft.[/quote]

That is how the drive on my 44 system works, still haven't seen the pump in question.
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 5:28 AM
Johnsd2
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Reply to STEPHEN:
[quote="Neil"]I'm not sure if the new belt will clear the plate when slid forward but if it does, there are two diametrically opposed forcing screw holes in the driveshaft plate that fits inside the crank pulley. First remove the locating pin in the side of the driveshaft plate that stops the shaft retracting back into the plate. Clean forcing screw holes up with a 3/8 NC tap then use your plate bolts in there to force the plate out, then slip the belt over the back of the plate / shaft. Reassemble.
If it does not clear, then you'll need to remove the pump to clear the shaft.[/quote]

That is how the drive on my 44 system works, still haven't seen the pump in question.
I don't have any clear pictures of the pump will have to go out to ranch and take some. Will post. I am hoping that there is a gap in the shaft to get belt in.
Looks like I have to pull belly pan and pump all lines then radiator. Not good just to change belt. I will try your suggest first. Thanks..
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 5:41 AM
Norm R2,22
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Reply to Johnsd2:
I don't have any clear pictures of the pump will have to go out to ranch and take some. Will post. I am hoping that there is a gap in the shaft to get belt in.
Looks like I have to pull belly pan and pump all lines then radiator. Not good just to change belt. I will try your suggest first. Thanks..
I think before I went through the trouble of parts removal, I try a segmented belt.

http://www.jasonindustrial.com/pdf/Accu-Link%20Belting%20Bulletin2014.pdf

They aren't cheap, but they save a lot of aggravation.
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 7:05 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Norm R2,22:
I think before I went through the trouble of parts removal, I try a segmented belt.

http://www.jasonindustrial.com/pdf/Accu-Link%20Belting%20Bulletin2014.pdf

They aren't cheap, but they save a lot of aggravation.
I have a segmented belt on my D2
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 7:14 AM
jumbo
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Reply to dpendzic:
I have a segmented belt on my D2
If you put a non-segmented belt on, make sure you put a spare on, tuck it away and tie it back so if you break a belt you only have to slip the spare on. I thought everybody did that, but recently I have learned only some do.
I'm not afraid of hard work; I can lay down beside it anytime and take a nap.
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 11:40 AM
Palmer
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Reply to jumbo:
If you put a non-segmented belt on, make sure you put a spare on, tuck it away and tie it back so if you break a belt you only have to slip the spare on. I thought everybody did that, but recently I have learned only some do.
Hi Neil,
I would be very interested to see a parts scan or a photo showing the pin and bolt locations that you describe above for removal of the drive plate from inside the crank pulley if anything is available.
I am thinking about moving a hydraulic pump from one D2 onto another D2 tractor and have been wondering how the shaft is connected to the pully. I can see a ring of fixing bolts through all the muck but that was about it.

Cheers,
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 3:34 PM
Johnsd2
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Reply to Palmer:
Hi Neil,
I would be very interested to see a parts scan or a photo showing the pin and bolt locations that you describe above for removal of the drive plate from inside the crank pulley if anything is available.
I am thinking about moving a hydraulic pump from one D2 onto another D2 tractor and have been wondering how the shaft is connected to the pully. I can see a ring of fixing bolts through all the muck but that was about it.

Cheers,
[quote="Palmer"]Hi Neil,
I would be very interested to see a parts scan or a photo showing the pin and bolt locations that you describe above for removal of the drive plate from inside the crank pulley if anything is available.
I am thinking about moving a hydraulic pump from one D2 onto another D2 tractor and have been wondering how the shaft is connected to the pully. I can see a ring of fixing bolts through all the muck but that was about it.

Cheers,[/quote]
I will take as many pictures as I can of the whole thing. It will take a minute, I am only working on it after work. This weekend I get both days off so I will have more time.
Thanks for your time.
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Mon, Sep 18, 2017 6:16 PM
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