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Engine Stands

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Newbie
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G'Day Gents (and Ladies to any reading this),

I need to make up some engine stands for the RD main and pony engines to make it easy to strip and rebuild 'em.

So my question is...... What does everyone use? Is there a drawing for the upper half of the bell housing bolt holes so I can make a plate and then hang the main engine from that? How much does the main engine weigh? What about the pony? Is that just done on the bench (which is what I was going to go)?


Cheers,

Phill.
1937 RD4 - 4G7191
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Tue, Nov 18, 2014 7:32 PM
Old Magnet
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For the pony motor I just made up a mounting plate based on the mounting gasket to adapt to a regular automotive type engine stand. Having the pony mounted horizontally to where it pivots makes it handy to work on. For the main engines they are to heavy to mount from the flywheel housing alone and be able to rotate for access..
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Tue, Nov 18, 2014 11:18 PM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to Old Magnet:
For the pony motor I just made up a mounting plate based on the mounting gasket to adapt to a regular automotive type engine stand. Having the pony mounted horizontally to where it pivots makes it handy to work on. For the main engines they are to heavy to mount from the flywheel housing alone and be able to rotate for access..
Hi Phill, I know this might sound like a stupid question but why are you aiming for a full rebuild of both motors at this stage, I know the main engine is stuck but have you pulled the head off the diesel engine, or removed the 2 lower inspection covers on the block to look at the crankshaft and conrods, or checked the compression on the pilot motor and pulled the heads off for a quick look see, are the pilot motor crankshaft bearings very worn?

From my experience once you pull a engine apart it can open a very expensive can of worms that often never needed to be opened, and the repair project goes from maybe a few days to get that tractor running under her own power again for an investment of say $500 for a valve grind and head gasket set, to a full rebuild back to original specs costing many thousands after you grind crankshafts and find the bearings, replace liners, pistons and rings, seals and gaskets, but more importantly, taking not only months, but years in many cases, and many old Cats just never get back together because the owner ran out of time, money, parts or enthusiasm, and we see those heart break tractors getting offered for sale here on ACMOC every week with words like "Invested $3,000 in parts alone, will take offers around $1,500 just to see it gone".

If you plan on going contract scrub clearing or dam sinking full time with that tractor 7 days a week for the next 15 years then the game plan might be a little different, but if the tractor will only do 20-50 hours a year maximum then keep in mind that a fair bit of internal wear is perfectly acceptable with these old girls and they will still start easily and do a full days work with good oil pressure, I guess I'm trying to say do the easy fixes first before you start building engine stands, because you might be pleasantly surprised to hear that diesel roar into life after simply pulling the head and tapping on a piston or two with a block of wood and a decent hammer.
Regards
Mike
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 2:56 AM
d23j
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Hi Phill, I know this might sound like a stupid question but why are you aiming for a full rebuild of both motors at this stage, I know the main engine is stuck but have you pulled the head off the diesel engine, or removed the 2 lower inspection covers on the block to look at the crankshaft and conrods, or checked the compression on the pilot motor and pulled the heads off for a quick look see, are the pilot motor crankshaft bearings very worn?

From my experience once you pull a engine apart it can open a very expensive can of worms that often never needed to be opened, and the repair project goes from maybe a few days to get that tractor running under her own power again for an investment of say $500 for a valve grind and head gasket set, to a full rebuild back to original specs costing many thousands after you grind crankshafts and find the bearings, replace liners, pistons and rings, seals and gaskets, but more importantly, taking not only months, but years in many cases, and many old Cats just never get back together because the owner ran out of time, money, parts or enthusiasm, and we see those heart break tractors getting offered for sale here on ACMOC every week with words like "Invested $3,000 in parts alone, will take offers around $1,500 just to see it gone".

If you plan on going contract scrub clearing or dam sinking full time with that tractor 7 days a week for the next 15 years then the game plan might be a little different, but if the tractor will only do 20-50 hours a year maximum then keep in mind that a fair bit of internal wear is perfectly acceptable with these old girls and they will still start easily and do a full days work with good oil pressure, I guess I'm trying to say do the easy fixes first before you start building engine stands, because you might be pleasantly surprised to hear that diesel roar into life after simply pulling the head and tapping on a piston or two with a block of wood and a decent hammer.
Regards
Mike
Save your had work for happy hour, and have a look before you leap! I have a heavy trolley, four wheels , 4in angle iron and I just weld bits on to pick points on the motor! A good crane or forklift is the best thing.
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 3:06 AM
catsteve
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Reply to d23j:
Save your had work for happy hour, and have a look before you leap! I have a heavy trolley, four wheels , 4in angle iron and I just weld bits on to pick points on the motor! A good crane or forklift is the best thing.
Hi phil

Im with Mike here.
I don't remember you saying the main engine was seized.
Its easy to get excited and want to do a full rebuild. (i know). But when your parts books arrive make some enquiries as to availability and prices.
Westrac will have a lot of the bits you will require. Get yourself a 'partstore' login and you can check on price/availablilty all day long.
The first parts person you speak to will be a kid out of high school who will swear Cat has never built something called an RD4 or he would know about it.
They are also very reasonable when it comes to nut/bolt hardware.
There are hardware source lists that can be downloaded.

I'd do everything possible to get it turning again. Unless there was a major failure when it was parked it may require a minimal amount of work. particularly the main engine and pumps.

regards
steve
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 5:38 AM
Jw74
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Reply to catsteve:
Hi phil

Im with Mike here.
I don't remember you saying the main engine was seized.
Its easy to get excited and want to do a full rebuild. (i know). But when your parts books arrive make some enquiries as to availability and prices.
Westrac will have a lot of the bits you will require. Get yourself a 'partstore' login and you can check on price/availablilty all day long.
The first parts person you speak to will be a kid out of high school who will swear Cat has never built something called an RD4 or he would know about it.
They are also very reasonable when it comes to nut/bolt hardware.
There are hardware source lists that can be downloaded.

I'd do everything possible to get it turning again. Unless there was a major failure when it was parked it may require a minimal amount of work. particularly the main engine and pumps.

regards
steve
that's good advice guys !!
Thanks God Bless
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 10:18 AM
Newbie
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Reply to Jw74:
that's good advice guys !!
G'Day Gents,

OK.... Besides some refurb work on the output of the pilot motor (gear is all rusty from being stood in the dirt... Don't ask.... Cocky's. Do I need to say more????? :Cry: )

I haven't taken the head of yet. I need to get it into the shed first.......

I have a parts book. 😊 I have an owners manual. 😊 But I don't have a service manual. 😞
Though I did find last night a diagram of the torque sequence, so I can reverse that...... But radiator comes of first. It is in a desperate need of a pickle..... But first the oil cooler..... It looks like the pipes undo from the back of the radiator, but it would be nice to know the correct way..... But I need it in the shed before I start doing this sort of stuff........

Yes the motor is stuck. How bad it is, is anybody's guess until I get the head off......

But me being me..... I like everything to be in good working order. So I was looking at dropping the sump to do an inspection of journals, and at least be prepared for an engine overhaul if required. Hence looking at what is required in the way of engine stands..... I like to be proactive rather than be dismayed at the last minute.

I will write out a list of parts (gaskets at this stage) and get some ordered from Westrac (local cat dealer).


Sorry if I seem a little frustrated, but I am really wanting to start, but I need to be able to roll it in the shed first..........


Cheers,

Phill.
1937 RD4 - 4G7191
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 3:54 PM
8C 361
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Reply to Newbie:
G'Day Gents,

OK.... Besides some refurb work on the output of the pilot motor (gear is all rusty from being stood in the dirt... Don't ask.... Cocky's. Do I need to say more????? :Cry: )

I haven't taken the head of yet. I need to get it into the shed first.......

I have a parts book. 😊 I have an owners manual. 😊 But I don't have a service manual. 😞
Though I did find last night a diagram of the torque sequence, so I can reverse that...... But radiator comes of first. It is in a desperate need of a pickle..... But first the oil cooler..... It looks like the pipes undo from the back of the radiator, but it would be nice to know the correct way..... But I need it in the shed before I start doing this sort of stuff........

Yes the motor is stuck. How bad it is, is anybody's guess until I get the head off......

But me being me..... I like everything to be in good working order. So I was looking at dropping the sump to do an inspection of journals, and at least be prepared for an engine overhaul if required. Hence looking at what is required in the way of engine stands..... I like to be proactive rather than be dismayed at the last minute.

I will write out a list of parts (gaskets at this stage) and get some ordered from Westrac (local cat dealer).


Sorry if I seem a little frustrated, but I am really wanting to start, but I need to be able to roll it in the shed first..........


Cheers,

Phill.
Have you made any progress getting the tracks free'ed up?
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 8:43 PM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to Newbie:
G'Day Gents,

OK.... Besides some refurb work on the output of the pilot motor (gear is all rusty from being stood in the dirt... Don't ask.... Cocky's. Do I need to say more????? :Cry: )

I haven't taken the head of yet. I need to get it into the shed first.......

I have a parts book. 😊 I have an owners manual. 😊 But I don't have a service manual. 😞
Though I did find last night a diagram of the torque sequence, so I can reverse that...... But radiator comes of first. It is in a desperate need of a pickle..... But first the oil cooler..... It looks like the pipes undo from the back of the radiator, but it would be nice to know the correct way..... But I need it in the shed before I start doing this sort of stuff........

Yes the motor is stuck. How bad it is, is anybody's guess until I get the head off......

But me being me..... I like everything to be in good working order. So I was looking at dropping the sump to do an inspection of journals, and at least be prepared for an engine overhaul if required. Hence looking at what is required in the way of engine stands..... I like to be proactive rather than be dismayed at the last minute.

I will write out a list of parts (gaskets at this stage) and get some ordered from Westrac (local cat dealer).


Sorry if I seem a little frustrated, but I am really wanting to start, but I need to be able to roll it in the shed first..........


Cheers,

Phill.
Sorry if I seem a little frustrated, but I am really wanting to start, but I need to be able to roll it in the shed first.........

Hey Phil,
One thing about refurbishing these old Cats. There certainly is a lesson in patience that is automaticly set upon you when you work on these. Being a type A person myself and always going full tilt at my real job it is something I struggle with also.
Roger
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 9:21 PM
Newbie
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
Sorry if I seem a little frustrated, but I am really wanting to start, but I need to be able to roll it in the shed first.........

Hey Phil,
One thing about refurbishing these old Cats. There certainly is a lesson in patience that is automaticly set upon you when you work on these. Being a type A person myself and always going full tilt at my real job it is something I struggle with also.
Roger
G'Day Gents,

Unfortunately I haven't been able to do any thing much towards freeing up the tracks. I keep having to go to that place called work.... 😞 ... It does pay all my bills though, so I can't complain too much. 😊
I did hit them with the high pressure cleaner, to drive some water into the joints, and I kept them wet, but by the time I was ready to give it another yank, my support crew (kids) wasn't available. And i just haven't had the opportunity to get back to it. I will try to knock of on time tomorrow and re-wet it all, and give it a go, but I don't like my chances. I think it will have to be Saturday morning. Once they go around, then I can get it in the shed and start work. 😊

What I could really do with is to borrow a service manual to read for a day or 2. Then I could see what i am dealing with with ripping the head off. In saying that, I do happen to have a Caterpillar Diesel Engines D4400 Serviceman's Reference book. It doesn't have a lot of technical spec's, but it does run you through the basics.

So now I have a question or 3.....

Does it pay to just go and get a set of these rubber ferules and copper water directors?
How many fittings are you getting from the head gaskets?
I assume it will pay for me to strip the head and remachine the valves and seats? What about the head? Do I need to give it a skim?
Is it best to replace the pre combustion chambers while I am there?
Does it have valve guide seals?


That should do for now.... 😊


Cheers,

Phill.
1937 RD4 - 4G7191
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Wed, Nov 19, 2014 10:38 PM
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