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Elec Start location D4 5T

Elec Start location D4 5T

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auscuscus
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I see fantastic pics on Old magnets image shack of drilling out but where does refer to on my D4 5T ? What has been removed to get to that ? For a CME unit I assume it was via the plate under the hour meter ( RHS while driving ) but that would interfere with my Dsl linkages. The pony to main engage clutch seems to be in in the way of the 'factory' starter position. ( LHS while driving )

Can someone set me straight with a 'fitted picture' for this earlier D4,

I have a fax for CME , but as I am in Australia, hoping someone has an email for them. Any other suppliers that have shipped happily os ?

Thank you, David.
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Wed, Apr 7, 2010 9:48 AM
cr
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Under the starting engine clutch and pinion levers on the LH side while in the driving position of the tractor there will be a raised boss that you need to have machined out. There is also 3 holes surrounding that boss that need to be drilled and threaded to accommodate the starter as well.

The plate on the RH side of the tractor with two 3/8" threaded holes is for the timing marks on the flywheel and greasing the main clutch pilot bearing.
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Wed, Apr 7, 2010 11:16 AM
auscuscus
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Reply to cr:
Under the starting engine clutch and pinion levers on the LH side while in the driving position of the tractor there will be a raised boss that you need to have machined out. There is also 3 holes surrounding that boss that need to be drilled and threaded to accommodate the starter as well.

The plate on the RH side of the tractor with two 3/8" threaded holes is for the timing marks on the flywheel and greasing the main clutch pilot bearing.
Thanks CR. Quite the hellish position. If the skinned knuckles don't get me the snakes sleeping under there will. Can I assume to remove that bell housing the whole tractor needs separation , not just removing the pony and pulling it rearwards.
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Wed, Apr 7, 2010 5:00 PM
SJ
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Reply to auscuscus:
Thanks CR. Quite the hellish position. If the skinned knuckles don't get me the snakes sleeping under there will. Can I assume to remove that bell housing the whole tractor needs separation , not just removing the pony and pulling it rearwards.
That reminds me of years ago I got a road call at the Cat dealer from a customer to go repair an HT4 loader at a town sanitary land fill and I had to chase the rats out of the belly pan before I could work on it.Boy that was a smelly job to deal with too.We used to get garbage trucks into the dealer shop for repairs and they would stink up the whole building from the smell and was good to get it out of the shop as soon as it was repaired.
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Wed, Apr 7, 2010 7:30 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to SJ:
That reminds me of years ago I got a road call at the Cat dealer from a customer to go repair an HT4 loader at a town sanitary land fill and I had to chase the rats out of the belly pan before I could work on it.Boy that was a smelly job to deal with too.We used to get garbage trucks into the dealer shop for repairs and they would stink up the whole building from the smell and was good to get it out of the shop as soon as it was repaired.
auscuscus,

You don't need to remove the bell housing, pony motor or split the engine from the tranny. The holes can be done in place but it's a tight fit. If you could remove the LH track easily, it'll give more room, but it can be done with the tracks in place too. I've done 2 D4's with everything in place, just lost some skin off my knuckles was all. A good 1/2" drill motor is a must, plus I'd suggest a carbide tipped hole saw to cut that big hole.

Putting the new electric starter by yourself on can be fun, it's heavy and awkward. A 4-5" long bolt with the head cut off works well as a pilot to get 'er slid in. On one D4, I ground a little off the bottom of the pinion housing, on the other I just mounted it with the solenoid downward.
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Wed, Apr 7, 2010 8:55 PM
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