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Draining the 5U12142 D2

Draining the 5U12142 D2

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64farmboy
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Team, I'm in the process of putting the old girl up for the winter. Pressure washed her off and drove her around to dry her out. Then drove her up on two 8 X 8 X 8 foot timbers to get her off the ground with the blade setting on an 8 X 8 X 6. Filled then put STABIL in the pony gas tank. I've drained the water out by opening the main bottom drain on the radiator, the block petcock just above the oil filter and the petcock on the top right hand side of the Pony motor. Is there any other drains I've missed and should open? I suggested leaving my wifes car out and storing it in the garage but that didn't go over very well
Thanks Dennie
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Sun, Oct 10, 2010 10:20 PM
Mike Walsh
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I would worry about the liner seals drying out and leaking. Sounds like you use tap water for coolant and don't have any problems with it. I am used to Montana weather which is similar to yours. I would fill the cooling system with antifreeze and distilled water at a concentration of at least 50/50 (maybe a little heavier on the Prestone as the ice age seems to be revisiting). I wouldn't use any nitrite additive; I'm not sure what it does to compromised seals and don't use it on old machines until they visit the machine shop. Coolant needs to exit petcock on pony on refill.

The gas is a crap shoot. If she gives you problems in the spring, drain it dry next year. I used to drain all my stuff every time I used it; took a lot of work. My experience is I have more problems when I drain so I have been lazy this year and left things alone.
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Sun, Oct 10, 2010 10:56 PM
ccjersey
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I've seen so many pony blocks cracked by freezing, I would be very hesitant to say one was absolutely drained out. I know many of them have serious sludge in the lower connection to the clutch housing/engine block passageway and that is the only way one could drain out. I would put antifreeze in it and run it enough to get it well distributed thoughout the cooling system.

I had plain water in our 9U last year and realized it was probably going to feeze that night, so I drained the water as well as possible and poured a couple gallons of antifreeze back in to hopefully mix with whatever water was left. Not good, but the best I could do at the time without starting it up and doing it right.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Oct 11, 2010 12:16 AM
64farmboy
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Reply to ccjersey:
I've seen so many pony blocks cracked by freezing, I would be very hesitant to say one was absolutely drained out. I know many of them have serious sludge in the lower connection to the clutch housing/engine block passageway and that is the only way one could drain out. I would put antifreeze in it and run it enough to get it well distributed thoughout the cooling system.

I had plain water in our 9U last year and realized it was probably going to feeze that night, so I drained the water as well as possible and poured a couple gallons of antifreeze back in to hopefully mix with whatever water was left. Not good, but the best I could do at the time without starting it up and doing it right.
Guys, I followed your advice and ran over to Advance Auto and picked up 4 gallons of undiluted antifreeze, Closed everything back up and put the 4 gallons of antifreeze in and 2 1/2 gallons of water until it started spraying out the pony motor drain cock. I then let her run until she was up to temp, the water in the radiator has a good antifreeze look and smell so it should be well mixed. I sure would hate to cheap out on $40 dollars worth of antifreeze for a $1000 dollar pony block.
Thanks Dennie
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Mon, Oct 11, 2010 12:33 AM
64farmboy
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Reply to 64farmboy:
Guys, I followed your advice and ran over to Advance Auto and picked up 4 gallons of undiluted antifreeze, Closed everything back up and put the 4 gallons of antifreeze in and 2 1/2 gallons of water until it started spraying out the pony motor drain cock. I then let her run until she was up to temp, the water in the radiator has a good antifreeze look and smell so it should be well mixed. I sure would hate to cheap out on $40 dollars worth of antifreeze for a $1000 dollar pony block.
Thanks Dennie
CC, In light of the fact I could only get 6 1/2 gallons in a drained system that according to the book holds 7 1/2 gallons tells me there was another gallon stuck in the system somewhere that didn't drain with the potential to freeze and break something. Good call!
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Mon, Oct 11, 2010 2:37 AM
drujinin
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Reply to 64farmboy:
CC, In light of the fact I could only get 6 1/2 gallons in a drained system that according to the book holds 7 1/2 gallons tells me there was another gallon stuck in the system somewhere that didn't drain with the potential to freeze and break something. Good call!
There should be a coolant drain petcock/plug down near the clutch compartment on the rear of the main engine to drain the bottom of the pony motor and the back of the main block. On my D2 it is located (hard to see) down under the pony oil drain pipe and behind the main oil fill pipe.
Jeff
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Mon, Oct 11, 2010 6:16 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to drujinin:
There should be a coolant drain petcock/plug down near the clutch compartment on the rear of the main engine to drain the bottom of the pony motor and the back of the main block. On my D2 it is located (hard to see) down under the pony oil drain pipe and behind the main oil fill pipe.
Jeff
Dennie,

Unless you plan on using the critter during the winter, I'd drain the pony gas tank and the carb as well. Any gas left in the carb might just wind up plugging it up as it evaporates. You might also leave the main clutch disengaged and tie back the steering clutches so they're released, then tarp the whole critter for the winter. I also put a bucket upside down over the shift lever on my D4 even though I've replaced the boot this summer. I use the D4 during the winter but even though it gets used, I still try to keep it as dry as possible.
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Mon, Oct 11, 2010 8:36 PM
64farmboy
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Reply to ol Grump:
Dennie,

Unless you plan on using the critter during the winter, I'd drain the pony gas tank and the carb as well. Any gas left in the carb might just wind up plugging it up as it evaporates. You might also leave the main clutch disengaged and tie back the steering clutches so they're released, then tarp the whole critter for the winter. I also put a bucket upside down over the shift lever on my D4 even though I've replaced the boot this summer. I use the D4 during the winter but even though it gets used, I still try to keep it as dry as possible.
[quote="ol'_Grump"]Dennie,

Unless you plan on using the critter during the winter, I'd drain the pony gas tank and the carb as well. Any gas left in the carb might just wind up plugging it up as it evaporates. You might also leave the main clutch disengaged and tie back the steering clutches so they're released, then tarp the whole critter for the winter. I also put a bucket upside down over the shift lever on my D4 even though I've replaced the boot this summer. I use the D4 during the winter but even though it gets used, I still try to keep it as dry as possible.[/quote]

Good suggestions I probably will not be using it this winter, unless I have to pull the log truck guy out again, I put my regular tarp on, that I use in the summer to cover from the dash back over the seat and fuel tank I just got another tarp to cover the whole machine and bungy it down, I had the right hand clutch lever tied back because thats the one thats stuck I'll tie back the left as well
TSC has gallons of PB blaster so I may put a couple of gallons in the right side so it will come apart better in the spring
Thanks

Dennie
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Tue, Oct 12, 2010 4:37 AM
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