ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
D8 R the right oils

D8 R the right oils

Showing 1 to 7 of 7 results
Diggerdozer
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Diggerdozer
Posts: 96
Thank you received: 0
Hi I 'm new to the crawler world and have just received home 22 tons of fun

can someone point me in the right direction of the right oils and quantities to use for for D8 chassis 8R 6458 1944 thankyou
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 17, 2009 10:20 AM
OzDozer
Offline
Send a private message to OzDozer
Posts: 1,125
Thank you received: 0
Diggerdozer - For the engine, use a good brand of 30 wt diesel oil that meets API diesel oil specs CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, or CH-4. Try to avoid using current diesel spec oils such as CI-4 or CJ-4, which are designed exclusively for current pollution-controlled engines. These oils have high detergent levels that can adversely affect older engines. You can use multigrade diesel oil if you wish, but it's not necessary.

For transmission and final drives, use a 80-90 wt gear oil that meets API GL-5 EP specifications.

Engine - 25.6 litres (240 hr oil change period) Oil is checked with engine running.

Transmission - 38 litres (1000 hr drain period)

Final Drives - 24.7 litres each side (1000 hr drain period) Wash out with diesel when changing oil. Half fill with diesel and run back and forth for 5 mins, then drain.

There are no filters in the transmission or final drives of the 8R.

Don't forget all the other little lube requirements .. such as engine oil breather, starting engine crankcase, steering clutch release bearings, starting engine clutch shift collar oil cup, fuel injection pump camshaft oil level, starting engine transmission oil .. and the dozens of grease points, from rollers to clutch, to track frame pivots, to control shaft bearings .. 😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Dec 17, 2009 5:45 PM
Diggerdozer
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Diggerdozer
Posts: 96
Thank you received: 0
Reply to OzDozer:
Diggerdozer - For the engine, use a good brand of 30 wt diesel oil that meets API diesel oil specs CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, or CH-4. Try to avoid using current diesel spec oils such as CI-4 or CJ-4, which are designed exclusively for current pollution-controlled engines. These oils have high detergent levels that can adversely affect older engines. You can use multigrade diesel oil if you wish, but it's not necessary.

For transmission and final drives, use a 80-90 wt gear oil that meets API GL-5 EP specifications.

Engine - 25.6 litres (240 hr oil change period) Oil is checked with engine running.

Transmission - 38 litres (1000 hr drain period)

Final Drives - 24.7 litres each side (1000 hr drain period) Wash out with diesel when changing oil. Half fill with diesel and run back and forth for 5 mins, then drain.

There are no filters in the transmission or final drives of the 8R.

Don't forget all the other little lube requirements .. such as engine oil breather, starting engine crankcase, steering clutch release bearings, starting engine clutch shift collar oil cup, fuel injection pump camshaft oil level, starting engine transmission oil .. and the dozens of grease points, from rollers to clutch, to track frame pivots, to control shaft bearings .. 😄
[quote="OzDozer"]Diggerdozer - For the engine, use a good brand of 30 wt diesel oil that meets API diesel oil specs CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, or CH-4. Try to avoid using current diesel spec oils such as CI-4 or CJ-4, which are designed exclusively for current pollution-controlled engines. These oils have high detergent levels that can adversely affect older engines. You can use multigrade diesel oil if you wish, but it's not necessary.

For transmission and final drives, use a 80-90 wt gear oil that meets API GL-5 EP specifications.

Engine - 25.6 litres (240 hr oil change period) Oil is checked with engine running.

Transmission - 38 litres (1000 hr drain period)

Final Drives - 24.7 litres each side (1000 hr drain period) Wash out with diesel when changing oil. Half fill with diesel and run back and forth for 5 mins, then drain.

There are no filters in the transmission or final drives of the 8R.

Don't forget all the other little lube requirements .. such as engine oil breather, starting engine crankcase, steering clutch release bearings, starting engine clutch shift collar oil cup, fuel injection pump camshaft oil level, starting engine transmission oil .. and the dozens of grease points, from rollers to clutch, to track frame pivots, to control shaft bearings .. 😄[/quote]


HI after a bit of running around found Bimrose lubricants who makes a mono 40 heavy oil so thankyou . Hastings deering had oil filters in stock.

We are having troubles though with starting her.
Had the pilot roaring but couldn't get th emain engine turning over fast enough , I understand we need to adjust the clutch as it is not clicking over . A mechanic also crawler mad is helping so hopefully we can fire her this weekend . I have also located manuals for it so well on the way to understanding the basics cheers
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Dec 18, 2009 12:32 PM
SJ
Offline
Send a private message to SJ
Posts: 1,890
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Diggerdozer:
[quote="OzDozer"]Diggerdozer - For the engine, use a good brand of 30 wt diesel oil that meets API diesel oil specs CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, or CH-4. Try to avoid using current diesel spec oils such as CI-4 or CJ-4, which are designed exclusively for current pollution-controlled engines. These oils have high detergent levels that can adversely affect older engines. You can use multigrade diesel oil if you wish, but it's not necessary.

For transmission and final drives, use a 80-90 wt gear oil that meets API GL-5 EP specifications.

Engine - 25.6 litres (240 hr oil change period) Oil is checked with engine running.

Transmission - 38 litres (1000 hr drain period)

Final Drives - 24.7 litres each side (1000 hr drain period) Wash out with diesel when changing oil. Half fill with diesel and run back and forth for 5 mins, then drain.

There are no filters in the transmission or final drives of the 8R.

Don't forget all the other little lube requirements .. such as engine oil breather, starting engine crankcase, steering clutch release bearings, starting engine clutch shift collar oil cup, fuel injection pump camshaft oil level, starting engine transmission oil .. and the dozens of grease points, from rollers to clutch, to track frame pivots, to control shaft bearings .. 😄[/quote]


HI after a bit of running around found Bimrose lubricants who makes a mono 40 heavy oil so thankyou . Hastings deering had oil filters in stock.

We are having troubles though with starting her.
Had the pilot roaring but couldn't get th emain engine turning over fast enough , I understand we need to adjust the clutch as it is not clicking over . A mechanic also crawler mad is helping so hopefully we can fire her this weekend . I have also located manuals for it so well on the way to understanding the basics cheers
Check there and make sure the starting engine is in the high speed in the transmission there on the starting engine. The low speed is just for cold weather to get the diesel loosened up and then you put it in thehigh range to start it. In the low range it is too low for starting the diesel.The lever housing there should be marked for the high and low position. I don,t have a book on as old a D8 as yours but a 14A I have shows the lever ahead for high speed or starting position for the diesel.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Dec 18, 2009 8:02 PM
jmvmopar
Offline
Send a private message to jmvmopar
Posts: 341
Thank you received: 0
Reply to SJ:
Check there and make sure the starting engine is in the high speed in the transmission there on the starting engine. The low speed is just for cold weather to get the diesel loosened up and then you put it in thehigh range to start it. In the low range it is too low for starting the diesel.The lever housing there should be marked for the high and low position. I don,t have a book on as old a D8 as yours but a 14A I have shows the lever ahead for high speed or starting position for the diesel.
I thought you weren't supposed to use GL5 cause it attacks brass or something.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Dec 19, 2009 1:28 AM
OldNuc
Offline
Send a private message to OldNuc
Posts: 162
Thank you received: 0
Reply to jmvmopar:
I thought you weren't supposed to use GL5 cause it attacks brass or something.
GL-5 does not play well with the yellow metals.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Dec 19, 2009 3:19 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
Reply to OldNuc:
GL-5 does not play well with the yellow metals.
Most EP gear lubes are compatable with copper alloy metals. They would need to be unless the market they were designed for was very limited.

When you look at a description of the properties of the lubricant, "Staining" refers to the effect on copper alloy components.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Dec 19, 2009 8:29 AM
OzDozer
Offline
Send a private message to OzDozer
Posts: 1,125
Thank you received: 0
Reply to OldNuc:
GL-5 does not play well with the yellow metals.
The oil companies currently claim that new and improved additive compounds, to GL-5 (EP) gear oils, means that they are now compatible with all metals.

There is is debate amongst chemical engineers about how bad the problem used to be anyway, with a polarity of opinions from "hogwash" to "big problem".

In essence, GL-5 (EP) gear oils used to contain an EP additive called organic sulfur compounds. These compounds are somewhat unstable, and have the unique ability to "flash weld" themselves to steel surfaces under extreme load. Under high contact pressure, the surface of the steel (gear tooth) reaches localised high temperatures (300-1000°C) and the sulfur compound welds itself chemically to the gear surface, creating a highly stable and very strong, and smooth surface, that resists gear spalling and metal-to-metal contact.

The sulfur compounds formerly used, would attack and etch copper, brass and bronze components that were regularly used in older cars, trucks and equipment.
The problem did not occurr until the sulfur compunds reached elevated temperatures, around 120°C (250°F).
Thus, many engineers decided the problem was "hogwash", as they claimed that that temperature was rarely reached. In operation, 250°F oil temperature in gear compartments IS reached on a regular basis .. thus the problem was real.

The oil industry is constantly changing its additives, because they keep finding new additives with improved properties over previous ones. Sulfur compounds have been eliminated from EP oils and have been replaced with newer and better organic compounds, that perform better than sulfur compounds. Organic sulfur compounds were being eliminated from EP oils in the 1950's, and there are none used in EP oils today.

In addition, copper, brass and bronze components have been greatly reduced in manufacturing useage in recent decades .. not only because of the cost .. but also because high grade steels have been able to replace them.

If in doubt, ask your oil supplier if their EP, GL-5 oils are compatible with copper, brass and bronze metals. You will find that in almost 100% of answers, the answer is Yes.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Dec 19, 2009 8:48 AM
Showing 1 to 7 of 7 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

HAMILTON PASTURAL MUSEUM

Chapter Nineteen

| Cnr Hiller Lane and Ballarat Road, Hamilton, Vic, 3300

RUSSELL SAYWELL WORKING DAY

Chapter Two

| Pitt Farm, Little Paxton, St Neots, Cambridgeshire, PE19 6HD, UK

10th Annual Best of the West

Chapter Fifteen

| Historic Santa Margarita Ranch, 20000 El Camino Real, Santa Margarita, CA 93453, USA

ACMOC Chapter 30 - Celebrating 100 Years of Caterpillar

Chapter Thirty

| Hartley - South Australia
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I became a member recently because the wealth of knowledge here is priceless." 
-Chris R

Join Today!