d69u fuel

There should be a place there on the fuel filter base with the regular gauge fitting so you could tap in there and use a calibrated gauge to check it. Normally cranking there will be a lower pressure than running but running it should be around 20 lbs. more or less. Take the fuel line off coming from the tank to the transfer pump and remove that block on the side of the pump and there is a spring and plunger behind it so check and see if it,s got a lot of junk under the plunger as they can get it. Also I,ve built up more pressure by stretching the spring out a little more to increase the pressure.If you didn,t change the fuel filters maybe they are bad too and can cause pressure problems.Drain the filter base out (plug in pipe behind the pump) and wash it out too when you change the filters and fill it up nearly full with some clean fuel before you drop the new filters down in.Let us know what you find and if it runs better now.Forgot to mention, make sure you bleed the filter base out good before you do anything and do it with the throttle in off position.There is bleeder screws in the injector pumps and are behind the lines toward the engine block so also do them before the throttle is on.THey are a small round screw with two flat spots on them so it takes a special bleeder wrench to do it. Some of the tool Co. used to sell a socket to do it but Cat had a little long wrench to do it.

I would bet on a stuck rack or binding linkage to the governor control so that he rack isn't moving the pumps to supply enough fuel.

What kind of smoke are you getting when it does start and run a little bit?

sj i did change filters but i didnt do a clean up will go back and do that and check fuel inlet cc i will remove side plate and check rack and also how much pressure should be at the injector nozzle

There is no given pressure at the nozzle fuel line but the resistance is built up at the nozzles themselves and the nozzles new at their outlet tips is 700 PSI but used ones will be lower with age.It takes a special tester to check nozzle breaking pressure which a dealer or an injection system repair shop would have.

After you've got everything bled out and you're trying to start the engine, crack the lines at the injectors themselves and bleed the lines as well. I don't know why but it seems that some engines, no matter how much you've bled everything up to and including the injector pumps still need the injector lines bled right at the injectors themselves.