D6 information needed?

After a family dinner, I am going to look into a D6 that I was told about. I assume it is an early model, but it was used until a few years ago when the pony died. Is there any way to tell if it has a dry clutch or wet clutch? I suspect it is a U series, but I know very little about D6s.

I hope every one has a nice Easter. Grant.

Hi, GrantJ.

I'm no 'ex-spurt' on earlier D6s either but, if it is an oil clutch model, maybe it'll have dipstick in the clutch compartment.

Just my 0.02.

If it is a wet clutch on the right hand side of tractor, under pony motor just even with frame rail 2 inch plug (standard Cat plug size for finals and crank case and transmission, the transmission should also have a breather) with a breather on top. And a dip stick to measure the oil level in the clutch.

I believe all wet clutch cases are drilled with a plate over hole for direct start starter on the left side of machine front of the clutch case under the pony clutch and pion levers.

Hi Grant,

the d6 U series oil clutch model should have a dipstick and a breather on the right rear flywheel housing (when viewed sitting in the operators seat) close to where it mounts to the chassis.

Cheers,

Eddie B.

You could also reference the serial number.

9U13263 and up should all be wet clutch.

I hope to go look at it later this week. Data plate will tell me a lot and the serial number that seyser listed plus the vent and dipstick should clinch it. It could also just end up one of my wild arse ideas but fun to check it out. Grant.

What would your intended use be for the machine?

I would base my purchase decision off the machines condition far before the fact that it might be a wet clutch or not.

The serial number dose not tell the story. I have 9u 10xxx with a wet clutch. I know back in the 60's and 70's Floren tractor had a add in one of the bigger farm magazines here in California advertising complete kits to convert to wet clutches. I don't know if there were any after market parts involved or not. I know there are several differences the case steel clutch covers. But did not find any differences on the inside as I have changed out all the bearing in 2 different clutches. I have never compared the very late 9u 28xxx cover with 10xxx that is a conversion from dry to say they are the same.

I will say it again I have not found any wear in the friction surfaces of the wet clutches I have been in. I replaced one disc because the drive teeth were 95% worn away. I had been told this by a local mechanic a lot more experience than I. My helper insisted when putting a new clutch plate in that the adjustment needed to be back off. I did much less than he wanted. Upon driving it I put it back to where it had started at.

Not wanting to advocate for slipping the clutch. But in critical situations such as loading on a transport truck slip the clutch to help with not just crashing down. The same with trying to lift a tree out by the roots.

I only ask about wet clutches because I know nothing about them. I am familiar with D2 and D4 clutches but was once told (maybe incorrectly) that the wet clutches were harder to work on. I intend to use it for stump pushing on my forest acreage. I have way too many stumps on my property. Old logging and forest fires have made a mess. A D6 will do a lot more work than my D2 or D4. I will know more in a week or so. Thanks, Grant.

Here is a couple of pages of a Special Instruction to do oil from dry conversion--lots of expensive parts and from memory not applicable to ALL dry machines. There are some 14 pages to this Instruction. I have tried to load two pages and got into more trouble than the early settlers.

Cheers,

Eddie B.

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