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D6 9u hard nose mounting bolts

D6 9u hard nose mounting bolts

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d2dan
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need some advice on my D6, all the bolts on one side of the nose are loose and the holes opened up by about 1/8 inch. so it has been flexing a little. the question is should i reem the holes up to 1" and up size the bolts so they fit tight .or use the std size witch i think is 7/8" grade 8 fine thread " odd size" and tighted them to full torque.
I'm unsure if the clamping force will be enough to keep it from moving with the holes opened up using the 7/8 bolt.
has anybody made this repair and did it work?
i don't like the idea of using a hole hog and a cut down reem "so i can fit it between the frame and track"
advice would be verry helpful
thanks
Dan
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Sun, Jul 7, 2013 10:38 AM
Mike Walsh
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Your description of the bolt, Grade 8 Fine, may be the source of your problem. Those bolts, nuts and washers should be CAT hardware. You will need CAT parts info to spec the correct hardware. Both sides of the hardnose will need the correct CAT hardware if any is missing.

This will sound a bit extreme but I'd pull the hardnose, mark the centers of the worn holes, weld them up, grind them flush and re-drill them. I take it you don't know yet whether the frame is egged out or not. If there are any other areas on the frame or hardnose that show wear, they may also need to be welded up and ground to original profile.

From your description, I assume the holes in the hardnose are egged shaped (not round) and oversize by 1/8". If they're round I doubt they're oversize. CC Jersey ought to be able to give you those dimensions.

It would be a lot easier to open the holes up and use larger CAT hardware. Not my first choice but much better than running it the way it is. Your approach will in large part be determined by the tools you have access to.

Probably not what you wanted to hear but at least you know what you were contemplating is not as bad as it could be.
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Sun, Jul 7, 2013 11:47 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Mike Walsh:
Your description of the bolt, Grade 8 Fine, may be the source of your problem. Those bolts, nuts and washers should be CAT hardware. You will need CAT parts info to spec the correct hardware. Both sides of the hardnose will need the correct CAT hardware if any is missing.

This will sound a bit extreme but I'd pull the hardnose, mark the centers of the worn holes, weld them up, grind them flush and re-drill them. I take it you don't know yet whether the frame is egged out or not. If there are any other areas on the frame or hardnose that show wear, they may also need to be welded up and ground to original profile.

From your description, I assume the holes in the hardnose are egged shaped (not round) and oversize by 1/8". If they're round I doubt they're oversize. CC Jersey ought to be able to give you those dimensions.

It would be a lot easier to open the holes up and use larger CAT hardware. Not my first choice but much better than running it the way it is. Your approach will in large part be determined by the tools you have access to.

Probably not what you wanted to hear but at least you know what you were contemplating is not as bad as it could be.
7/8" fine thread is the original application. I don't see anything wrong with drilling/reaming to the next size. Where things go wrong is when bolts get replaced with the wrong unthreaded shank portion and the pilot feature is lost. I often trim longer bolts to get the shank needed. 8F7496 Cat bolts have a 0.25 grip length. The 1" version in the same 1-3/4" length has only a 0.13 grip length. I'd be looking at a longer bolt and cut it down eg. a 2-3/4" 1" dia. Cat bolt has a 0.50 grip length.

Grade 8 is plenty strong enough but you will actually have to eyeball and measure commercial grade bolts for grip/shank length.
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Sun, Jul 7, 2013 12:41 PM
ccjersey
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You should be able to jack up the front of the tractor and get more clearance between tracks and frame for reaming the holes. If necessary you could even disconnect the equalizer spring from the bottom of the tractor. A reamer will make short work of that job, but the job will have to be done with care or you will wind up with round, but oversize holes😆
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Jul 7, 2013 7:45 PM
d2dan
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Reply to ccjersey:
You should be able to jack up the front of the tractor and get more clearance between tracks and frame for reaming the holes. If necessary you could even disconnect the equalizer spring from the bottom of the tractor. A reamer will make short work of that job, but the job will have to be done with care or you will wind up with round, but oversize holes😆
Mike the nose has been banged up and needs new grill mounting tabs and i almost pulled it yesterday for a compleat rebuild witch is what it needs. only thing is this thing needs to push dirt! this winter i'm replacing the blade wounting and i'll be pulling the nose also.

OM i think the shoulder was the problem the bolts seemed high quality but no shoulder.did the cat bolts use hd washers or the style of bolt/nut that has flared clamping surfaces. cant remember the name now.

thanks
Dan
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Sun, Jul 7, 2013 8:48 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to d2dan:
Mike the nose has been banged up and needs new grill mounting tabs and i almost pulled it yesterday for a compleat rebuild witch is what it needs. only thing is this thing needs to push dirt! this winter i'm replacing the blade wounting and i'll be pulling the nose also.

OM i think the shoulder was the problem the bolts seemed high quality but no shoulder.did the cat bolts use hd washers or the style of bolt/nut that has flared clamping surfaces. cant remember the name now.

thanks
Dan
The original bolts and nuts were plain regular type. Using flanged head bolts and flanged nuts here would be a good application. I make use of a lot of this type.
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Sun, Jul 7, 2013 10:40 PM
Mike Walsh
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The original bolts and nuts were plain regular type. Using flanged head bolts and flanged nuts here would be a good application. I make use of a lot of this type.
Any chance you can make a large round or square washer that's 1/2" thick and weld it to the hardnose over the egged out hole, going back with longer bolts. That would solve your hole problem for now. You can remove the modification this winter when you do your rebuild.
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Sun, Jul 7, 2013 11:29 PM
d2dan
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Reply to Mike Walsh:
Any chance you can make a large round or square washer that's 1/2" thick and weld it to the hardnose over the egged out hole, going back with longer bolts. That would solve your hole problem for now. You can remove the modification this winter when you do your rebuild.


when i check the rest of the frame holes if their good i'll make a set from 4150 bar stock and they can just stay👍
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Mon, Jul 8, 2013 2:14 AM
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