D4D help

I could always be wrong but it sounds like either the brake drum flange or the clutch pack has gotten loose on their tapered spline. You are going to need a service manual to fix this and as having fixed this problem it's a pretty big job. Hope I am wrong. Charlie

Hi Magard,
first step would be to check the steering clutch and brake linkages for condition and adjustments.

Sounds like the steer clutch is partly released and the plates are vibrating on rusted or oil soaked surfaces of the steel and lined plates/discs.
When travelling another possible source of the noise is the brake band fairly tight on a rusted surface on the brake drum.

Drain the steer clutch compartments to check for water or oil on the above surfaces.
May only need adjusting and flushing.

As mentioned by others, the stripped splines from a cracked steer clutch drum hub or final drive pinion flange is a possibility too.
Check the simple things first.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Brake band is busted you can see that through inspection plate. The clutches just seem wore out. Just woundering if this tractor is worth going further with. Seems like a fellow good get some money in this thing. I don't have a book on it to see what is involved in fixing steering clutches. If a fellow was doing his own work how many thousands could you spend?

Basically everything has to come off the top of the steering clutch/bevel gear case so that the entire cross shaft can be removed to disassemble the steering clutches. Basically the same operation as on the 7U's.
Aftermarket steering clutch parts are available at www.steeringclutch.com. Hydraulic pulling/pushing equipment is required to remove and install the steering clutch hubs. Spring compressor can be shop built.

I was just reading in my 7u book. This hydraulic pushing and pulling, could this be done by a shop somewhere. Seems like taking the units out and having them serviced might be the most practical thing to do. Sounds like your going to have to remove the bevel gear. Do you need hydraulic puller/pusher for that?

Not necessary to remove the bevel gear as part of the steering clutch overhaul.......unless it has issues of its own.

I was just reading in my 7u book. This hydraulic pushing and pulling, could this be done by a shop somewhere. Seems like taking the units out and having them serviced might be the most practical thing to do. Sounds like your going to have to remove the bevel gear. Do you need hydraulic puller/pusher for that?

Hi,
you do not need any pulling gear to remove the steering clutch and bevel gear shaft assembly.

The pulling gear is needed to remove the steering clutches from the said shaft--also to refit them with absolutely bone dry splines and no more than 10 tons or the steer clutch hubs can split--books say more tonnage (15) but at The Dealer we had a hard a fast rule of 10 tons max. and we/I never saw one come loose or crack from that time onwards--like 1962 onwards until I retired 43 years later, even on higher HP and higher stressed 955's.

Others will say more tonnage is OK but why risk old unknown quality/stressed and expensive to replace hubs.
Do not forget to take note/mark which side the bevel gear is on both the shaft and in the main case or you will have 4 Rev and 1 Fwd gears if the bevel gear is reversed.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Is the d4d different than the d4 7u. Looks like you pull the bevel gear and clutch assembly's together on a 7u. Looks like I really need a book on this thing. Magnet, I remember you telling me something about a cross shaft improvement I believe in the finals. Is there an improvement that I should do to the bevel gear and pinion. This tractor seems high geared I wonder what it would take to change gearing will I'm there.