Reply to ccjersey:
Go to the CAT literature website and see what is listed there. http://www.cat.com/cda/layout?m=90800&x=7
Here is the section on D4400 that seem to be applicable. There are some Parts books listed for Diesel electric sets, but not for that serial number.
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 12/01/1943 8304 OM E 68 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 04/01/1945 8848 OM E 76 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 ENGINE / / 30523 SR E 132 6 X 9
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 12/01/1943 8304 OM E 68 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 04/01/1945 8848 OM E 76 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 ENGINE 11/01/1956 UE007965 PB E 212 6 X 9 1S1 1S5000
D4400 POWER UNIT 02/01/1942 7363 OM E 52 6 X 9 1S1
Should be able to put a wrench on the nut on the front of the crankshaft pulley or fabricate a crank to fit in it to turn the engine. The crank for these diesel engines were not intended to crank the engine to start it, only to turn it for maintenance. As long as you go clockwise you will not be in any danger of unscrewing the nut or bolt that retains the crankshaft pulley, but you may need to go back and forth some to free it up. One thing to avoid is prying on the generator fan vanes which may look like an easy thing to do. These typically are a fragile casting and easily snapped off.
I would be inclined to turn it a bit and see what it will do, but you might be better off taking the valve covers off and lubricating the pushrods and lifters, rockers and valves as well as bumping the valves open with a hammer handle or something like that just to make sure it's all free. If you bump the valves open, ensure the pushrods don't fall out from under the rocker arms! Probably should do the same for the injection pumps, especially since the housig has been open for so long. The pump lifter assemblies should move up and down with a screwdriver and the rack must be free to move back and forth. Spray everything with a good penetrating oil or ATF, diesel etc.
Then get the decompression lever to the Start/decompressed position and turn it over if you can. If it's stuck or hard to turn, you can always pull the injectors and squirt something in the cylinders through the PC chambers to help free the rings. Could probably find a borescope that would let you look into the cyliders through the tiny hole in the precombustion chambers or even remove the chambers and have a big hole to go through, though at that point, if it won't move, you're probably looking at taking the head off anyway and might be smart not to disturb the PC chambers unless you have good reason to.
If everything was perfect and you wanted to start the engine, I would always plan how you are going to stop the engine if it runs away. Something as simple as pulling the decompression lever or smothering it with a board over the air intake stack etc. Much better to have a plan than have to think of something and do it as it winds up to an overspeed!
[quote="ccjersey"]Go to the CAT literature website and see what is listed there.
http://www.cat.com/cda/layout?m=90800&x=7
Here is the section on D4400 that seem to be applicable. There are some Parts books listed for Diesel electric sets, but not for that serial number.
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 12/01/1943 8304 OM E 68 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 04/01/1945 8848 OM E 76 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 ENGINE / / 30523 SR E 132 6 X 9
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 12/01/1943 8304 OM E 68 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 DIESEL POWER UNIT 04/01/1945 8848 OM E 76 6 X 9 1S1
D4400 ENGINE 11/01/1956 UE007965 PB E 212 6 X 9 1S1 1S5000
D4400 POWER UNIT 02/01/1942 7363 OM E 52 6 X 9 1S1
Should be able to put a wrench on the nut on the front of the crankshaft pulley or fabricate a crank to fit in it to turn the engine. The crank for these diesel engines were not intended to crank the engine to start it, only to turn it for maintenance. As long as you go clockwise you will not be in any danger of unscrewing the nut or bolt that retains the crankshaft pulley, but you may need to go back and forth some to free it up. One thing to avoid is prying on the generator fan vanes which may look like an easy thing to do. These typically are a fragile casting and easily snapped off.
I would be inclined to turn it a bit and see what it will do, but you might be better off taking the valve covers off and lubricating the pushrods and lifters, rockers and valves as well as bumping the valves open with a hammer handle or something like that just to make sure it's all free. If you bump the valves open, ensure the pushrods don't fall out from under the rocker arms! Probably should do the same for the injection pumps, especially since the housig has been open for so long. The pump lifter assemblies should move up and down with a screwdriver and the rack must be free to move back and forth. Spray everything with a good penetrating oil or ATF, diesel etc.
Then get the decompression lever to the Start/decompressed position and turn it over if you can. If it's stuck or hard to turn, you can always pull the injectors and squirt something in the cylinders through the PC chambers to help free the rings. Could probably find a borescope that would let you look into the cyliders through the tiny hole in the precombustion chambers or even remove the chambers and have a big hole to go through, though at that point, if it won't move, you're probably looking at taking the head off anyway and might be smart not to disturb the PC chambers unless you have good reason to.
If everything was perfect and you wanted to start the engine, I would always plan how you are going to stop the engine if it runs away. Something as simple as pulling the decompression lever or smothering it with a board over the air intake stack etc. Much better to have a plan than have to think of something and do it as it winds up to an overspeed![/quote]
ccjersey
Perhaps I am confused on these Cat publications. I looked up the D4400 and the serial lists it as a power unit, and by the serial, it looks to be made in 1956?? The end of the serial is 1S5000, and mine is 1S4825. Other wise I had been thinking is was 1947 or so...
Since I don't have it in a heated shop, it may be a while before I mess with it much. Thanks for the pointers on how to go about inspection. I can barrow a bore scope locally. Might be the best way to go, before pulling the head off.
I am inclned to think there maybe a low oil pres., or more likely a high temp shut down involved here on this engine as well....
The inspection plate on the oil pan will let a person take a peak a the bottom end I hope...
Regards, Kirk