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D4 7u head removal

D4 7u head removal

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kingmike
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Does anyone have a step by step for what to remove to get the head off? I dont have a manual that covers this but it looks like the rockers will have to be removed and all of that in order to get to the middle bolts to remove them. Does the timing have to be reset after the head is removed? I hope not! Thanks for any advice. I dont guess I've fooled with removing a head with center bolts before that I remember. Was hoping to leave most stuff in place when it got pulled out.
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Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:22 AM
Irwin
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Unhook oil line to the rockers that have to come off.mark injecter lines and remove.exhaust /intake can stay but will ad weight.my pony was off before i removed head.i reused gasket per manual as it was good. Good luck. You should be able to goggle it on youtube.
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Tue, Mar 24, 2020 9:08 AM
kingmike
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Reply to Irwin:
Unhook oil line to the rockers that have to come off.mark injecter lines and remove.exhaust /intake can stay but will ad weight.my pony was off before i removed head.i reused gasket per manual as it was good. Good luck. You should be able to goggle it on youtube.
Oh yea, meant to say that I have both manifolds off already. My pony doesnt work so I've mostly removed it already. I guess I dont have to remove all of the rockers then? What about the push rods? Does it need to be re-timed if I take all of this off? I couldn't find anything specific about this particular motor on you tube or anywhere.
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Tue, Mar 24, 2020 9:15 AM
Old Cats
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Reply to kingmike:
Oh yea, meant to say that I have both manifolds off already. My pony doesnt work so I've mostly removed it already. I guess I dont have to remove all of the rockers then? What about the push rods? Does it need to be re-timed if I take all of this off? I couldn't find anything specific about this particular motor on you tube or anywhere.
It should not need re-timed but the valves will need adjusted of course after head removal. If I remember correctly the water pump will need to be unbolted but not have to be removed entirely. I seem to remember not removing mine but can't remember why other than some goober welded the belt adjustment pulley and getting the belt on and off is tough to do.
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Tue, Mar 24, 2020 7:25 PM
Irwin
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Reply to Old Cats:
It should not need re-timed but the valves will need adjusted of course after head removal. If I remember correctly the water pump will need to be unbolted but not have to be removed entirely. I seem to remember not removing mine but can't remember why other than some goober welded the belt adjustment pulley and getting the belt on and off is tough to do.
Yea ,rockers come off as one .then push rods.thats easy peasy.just lay them the valve cover.on my rd4 the water pump is not on the head.dont know about yours.dont slide the head around on block as combustion chambers hang down just a bit.good luck
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Wed, Mar 25, 2020 6:07 AM
kingmike
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Reply to Irwin:
Yea ,rockers come off as one .then push rods.thats easy peasy.just lay them the valve cover.on my rd4 the water pump is not on the head.dont know about yours.dont slide the head around on block as combustion chambers hang down just a bit.good luck
Yea I see on mine that the water pump has an upper and lower chamber so dont have to fully remove it doesnt look like. I loosened all the rockers and top nuts today. It looks like it can all come out as one piece with the decompression bar attached if I take off all the bolts that hold the valve flange on. Re-setting all of those valves is probably going to be somewhat of a pain but in well. That decompression rail is directly over one row of bolts on mine, so it looks like it all has to go to get the head loose.
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Wed, Mar 25, 2020 7:03 AM
kingmike
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Yea I see on mine that the water pump has an upper and lower chamber so dont have to fully remove it doesnt look like. I loosened all the rockers and top nuts today. It looks like it can all come out as one piece with the decompression bar attached if I take off all the bolts that hold the valve flange on. Re-setting all of those valves is probably going to be somewhat of a pain but in well. That decompression rail is directly over one row of bolts on mine, so it looks like it all has to go to get the head loose.
Can it be lifted off by using the exhaust manifold studs? I dont see any other way on that side. I've rigged up a 2x6 lift overhead so I can lift it straight up. Does anyone know the weight of this? My estimate is around 300 lbs but hopefully less?? How did you guys lift it up or what did you hook to when you did it?
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Wed, Mar 25, 2020 7:06 AM
neil
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Reply to kingmike:
Can it be lifted off by using the exhaust manifold studs? I dont see any other way on that side. I've rigged up a 2x6 lift overhead so I can lift it straight up. Does anyone know the weight of this? My estimate is around 300 lbs but hopefully less?? How did you guys lift it up or what did you hook to when you did it?
Can't be that much because I can lift one. I'd guesstimate more like 100-150. You can use the manifold studs on one side - can't remember what's on the other side
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Wed, Mar 25, 2020 8:48 AM
kingmike
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Reply to neil:
Can't be that much because I can lift one. I'd guesstimate more like 100-150. You can use the manifold studs on one side - can't remember what's on the other side


The exhaust side has studs. The other side or intake just had bolts. Figured I'd put one or two back in on the intake side and use the studs on the exhaust side but difnt want to break off anything if you think.thatll work??
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Wed, Mar 25, 2020 8:52 AM
neil
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The exhaust side has studs. The other side or intake just had bolts. Figured I'd put one or two back in on the intake side and use the studs on the exhaust side but difnt want to break off anything if you think.thatll work??
That should work fine Mike but one thing you can do first before lifting is to "break the seal". Get a bar and free the adhesion of the head to the block, and then go ahead and lift. Four points (front rear each side) should be sufficient. If you first back out the studs so you know they unwind, if the worst should happen and a stud breaks, then you know you can easily back the broken part out. But I'd very much doubt you'll break one unless you whale on it and you seem like a sensible guy that wouldn't do that : ) 👍
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Wed, Mar 25, 2020 9:11 PM
kracked1
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Reply to neil:
That should work fine Mike but one thing you can do first before lifting is to "break the seal". Get a bar and free the adhesion of the head to the block, and then go ahead and lift. Four points (front rear each side) should be sufficient. If you first back out the studs so you know they unwind, if the worst should happen and a stud breaks, then you know you can easily back the broken part out. But I'd very much doubt you'll break one unless you whale on it and you seem like a sensible guy that wouldn't do that : ) 👍
There is no timing that has to be done after head removal, just reseting the valves. Take the rockers off. You can lift with a chain diagonal from rear exhaust to front intake if I remember. It isnt that heavy. As stated do not slide or set the head on the face as the precom chambers do stick out slightly.
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Wed, Mar 25, 2020 10:02 PM
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