D25U Equalizer Spring Problems

I like the "arch" pun : ) Your current components (not the ones you recently made) could be fatigued and you're the unlucky owner that's copping the result. But as well, could you describe how you operate it and what non-standard parts you have - that might provide some clues. And are the track frames and pivot shaft in generally good shape? If there's a lot of slack in those two, your equalizer beam might be copping it. One other thing to check is if the rebound spring has freedom of movement i.e. not getting hung up on the main spring or belly of the engine. That's about all I can think of.

Everything underneath is Cat. I tossed out the other stuff. I am not sure about the pivot shaft specs. Last year when I replaced the left steering clutch it appeared good. No signs of wear or ridges etcetera. As for if the spring is hanging up on anything it didn't appear that way when last I checked but I will crawl under it next week and see if I can see any signs of unusual wear. I think the shackle looks short because it is hanging loose and resting on the betty pan but I can check that too. If they are the correct length the rebound spring should be held snug to the equalizer correct? I did notice that there is about 3/4" of free play at the end of the equalizer were it rest in the cradle in the track frames and the retainer that goes over the top. Should this space be there or is that too much?

I was thinking that I might just be having bad luck with fatigue. My wife says it is getting old and things just ain't what they use to be. I sure agree with that at times.

As for how I am using it, I am doing land clearing and stump removal. After digging out around the roots, I rest the blade as high as I can get on the tree and push. No crashing in to things full speed.

What to you think about putting a bolt through it? Should I just go with a regular hardness so that other things don't break? Sort of like a shear pin>

Let me know what you think.

Those clearances sound ok, yes the lower spring should be tight to the main spring. Use a grade 8 bolt with a shoulder long enough to go through most of the hanger and shackle then cut the threads off long enough to put a steel lock nut on. If you raise the blade while pushing it can damage the spring also. Stumps can put allot of stress on a small machine.

If I remember right at the end of the spring leaf there is a sleeve that goes over the bolt and rotates as the spring lengthens and shortens--i assume to reduce wear on the spring?

The lower spring should be tight to the main spring in the middle, but the ends should be clear so that the spring can bend and do its job - as the front of the tractor rears up, the rebound spring end-eyes will be drawn up tight to the main spring but when just sitting there at rest, the ends are down at their full extension on the straps

Today I had the chance to get underneath, remove the access cover and inspect the spring set up. The way it is currently installed while at rest the rebound spring is pulled straight with the eyes against the equalizer spring. I believe this means my shackles are too short. My thought is to loosen the shackle bolts releasing the pressure until then is a curvature to the spring. Then use his distance to gauge how long the shackles should be. Unless somebody can tell me how long they should be. Then make new ones of that length. What grade of metal should I use when I make the new ones?

Any other ideas would be appreciated.

My last post was incorrect, I think the shakles [straps] look to short for that spring.