D2 BladE and hydraulics ID

Unless I am mistaken, that appears to be a "Holt" or "Swede" blade, manufactured in Independence, Oregon. Most units I have seen had a self contained tank/pump in the front.
Not a lot to deal with, other than obvious leaks, frayed hydraulic hoses and maybe any possible cracked welds or wallowed out mounting holes.
Handy item for any crawler. Cute little D2 you have there. Thanks for sharing!

We had a pump that looked just like that one.It was a Hydreco pump as I recall

I have a pump very much like that with a tag saying Commercial Shearing. I believe it had a number, but off in the mud today. The pump had the 4 bolt mount to fit up to the cast steel piece under the radiator on a 9u D6. Just like this one seems to have. It needed a new oil seal, local hydraulic shop had one in stock that fit. The failed seal was a modern lip seal made for hydraulic pumps. Not the multi pieces with a spring and all. I forget if I ever put a gauge on it but much closer to modern tractor psi than the 1950's pumps that most old Cats have.

That seat arrangement looks like it would work great for us taller operators.

Hi, bpusmc.
Nice unit with some interesting additions. Thanks for sharing. AND, IF I am guessing correctly, thank you for your service.

Hi, side-seat.
Yep. I'm only average height and I never liked having to tuck my knees up behind my ears just to be able to sit in the standard seat. Then I hadta untangle 'em to work thew steering brakes. Gimme a bigger tractor any day.

Just my 0.02.

yes the bareco suspension seat modification. i think ours will get the same treatment.

the current one is out of a toyota coaster minibus and its not that great to sit on.

I reinstalled the blade, and hydraulics, pushed some dirt and pushed over a couple of dead trees. The new clutch and steering clutches are amazing. As for the hydraulics, here’s what I found.
Blade lifts sluggishly. If I attempt to raise the blade further after a pause, it drops 4 to 6 inches before raising further. The pump leaks a few drips a minute when running and a couple of drips a minute when not running. The left cylinder drips around the shaft when lifting.
As suggested above, I believe this is a Holt blade. I’m still not sure who manufactures the pump and controller.
My questions are:
- Does anyone have a manual/parts listing for this type of pump (I have done numerous forum and Google searches with no luck)?
- Is the “blade dropping” issue the pump? or possibly the controller?
- Is this something I can repair/reseal on my own?
- What is the preferred hydraulic oil for this application?
- Any other suggestions or insights are appreciated.
Thx,
bpusmc

some had the bee-gee brand hydraulics which are a gear pump and the valve is separate. which is what yours could be its certainly a gear pump. take it to a hydraulics joint they should be able to help you rekit it. dont let em see the old pipe fittings they'll freak out not knowing this old stuff only worked on 1500 psi not 5000 like modern systems hence why the rams are so big for such small machines.

sounds like your rams need re kitting or re-shafting due to wear or scoring etc. dont bother recroming much cheaper to have a machine shop make new shafts using the existing rod eye and piston with a new bit of shafting. it cost us under 900 bucks to do both rams and new bushes in the ram ends. along with new seals on the piston and vee packs in the gland. if the shafts are in good condition it might just be new seals on the piston and gland.

the hassle to try and do it your self a workshop will have it done quicker and easier also there is some guarantee on their work.

as for oil either use iso 68 hydro oil or you can use caltex textrans tdh or delo gold ultra 15w40. textrans tdh will also go in the transmission.(thats the australian product name dont know what its called in the states where its sold under the chevron brand)

Bee-Gee liked to have their name cast into parts so I will say with 99% certainty it is not a Bee-Gee. Hopefully you can find a knowledgeable hydraulic shop that can help. If it has not been done already sometime turn the end plate over in a gear pump can help. The kind of thing a shop should know.

Start the tractor and feel the temperature of the rams, then lift and lower the blade a few times. If rams are a lot warmer than other parts it is leaking a lot around the seals on the piston in the ram.