About the only things that would cause uneven blade rise would be a restriction in the plumbing to one side, uneven cylinder leakage or a mechanical linkage problem, binding or blade frame/push arms are tweaked. Nothing in the #44 unit itself would cause that.
could be the slop.
I will dig into it.
will fix slop in pins that keep working my way back.
cylinders are newer,, was the same issue with the old blade lift cylinders (they were wore out)
could be slop I should take a video at post it see what you think.
i will wait ell I ream the holes on horizontal brasses
any experience with the adjustable reamers? there big, will need to ream holes to more than likely by hand 1.312, dang.
just bugs me that blade it coming up crocked, like the left side lags behind the right.
tilts blade, better since newer cylinder, but still does it.
could be the main pivot attachment point, where the fixed attachment point for cylinders
that's even a larger hole, a little bit of slop there will translate to 10 times more out front by the time it reaches 10 feet out front
could be the slop.
I will dig into it.
will fix slop in pins that keep working my way back.
cylinders are newer,, was the same issue with the old blade lift cylinders (they were wore out)
could be slop I should take a video at post it see what you think.
i will wait ell I ream the holes on horizontal brasses
any experience with the adjustable reamers? there big, will need to ream holes to more than likely by hand 1.312, dang.
just bugs me that blade it coming up crocked, like the left side lags behind the right.
tilts blade, better since newer cylinder, but still does it.
could be the main pivot attachment point, where the fixed attachment point for cylinders
that's even a larger hole, a little bit of slop there will translate to 10 times more out front by the time it reaches 10 feet out front
yep will fix the slop 1st.
Just to answer a question tho, if I hold the lever back until it max's out in full up, it will be level up at full stroke, same with full down.
kind of weird about the different volumes of oil in the 5 gal bucks on each side, all the lines are the same size on each side as well.
ill work on the slop 1st.
gona take a while to do that.
need to find some reamers, then order some Conex bushings
scott
yep will fix the slop 1st.
Just to answer a question tho, if I hold the lever back until it max's out in full up, it will be level up at full stroke, same with full down.
kind of weird about the different volumes of oil in the 5 gal bucks on each side, all the lines are the same size on each side as well.
ill work on the slop 1st.
gona take a while to do that.
need to find some reamers, then order some Conex bushings
scott
About those adjustable hand reamers. The ones I'm familiar with are only for cutting/resizing bronze/brass bushings. Not for cutting steel and certainly not elongated holes.....unless your on to something I don't know about.
The typical resizing I do is either by welding up the holes and reboring or steel sleeve welded in to an enlarged hole and left as steel or bushed.
Other option if feasible is torch off the entire bracket and fabricate new replacement. Although I occasionally hone for final size I have never made use of an adjustable hand reamer for steel.
Gudday all not much to add as it has just about all been said I believe Pete is 100% correct in his description
As to the different volumes of oil flow with hoses disconnected the oil would take the least path of resistance so if the side with the reduced flow is longer or has more bends it stands to reason that the flow would be lower
at least thats the way I under stand it
I was once taught as a younger person fix the obvious problems first other wise you end up just chasing your tail
adjustable reamers if they look like this type
[img]http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/121/121541.jpg[/img]
They will work in steel ok but I dont know if they will work in the steel that you are going try and use them in and like old magnet says they wont work very well in a elongated holes as old magnet says best to build them up with weld and re bore them
depending on how bad the hole is I have had a lot success building them up with the stick welder and just using a electric drill and a good quality hole saw and heaps of cutting fluid might want to us a hole saw a fraction smaller then the hole you are drilling but you cant get fairly good neat holes with out spending much money and even if the holes arent in the right position it doesnt matter because the diagonal braces will adjust it out
good luck with it all
Paul
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